Zodiac MX8 Slowing Down (too slow)

I have a 5 year old MX8 in which I replaced all inner parts with authentic Zodiac MX8 Tune Up Kit this weekend. I returned the cleaner to my pool, but it still runs very slowly & will stop when it encounters minor obstructions like the main drains. Flow regulator is installed. Yellow indicator in the wheel does NOT reach ideal 10 rotations w/in 20-25 seconds. Cleaner is controlled by automatic valve in which pump RPMs increase from 2800 to 4,250. Seems to working fine.

Thank you for any help & direction.
 
Nice to meet you via TFP :)

A few things to check... is the electric valve opening fully? And/or is it a three-way valve that simultaneously is slowing down the suction from the skimmer? If not, possibly try restricting the flow coming from the skimmer if that's possible... How fast does it run without the flow regulator?

Pumps usually don't run up to 4250... could that be 3450?
 
Needsajet, this is my setup. Admittedly, I'm not certain which valves control what. However, the yellow highlighted automatic valve is the cleaner & it does appear to open completely. Unfortunately, I don't have a regular connection in place of the flow regulator connection to test. If it helps, the cleaner does run on its' own line (not through the skimmer).
Pool Equipment.jpg
 
Thanks for the picture, that's very helpful.

I should have mentioned before, I'm assuming from your other efforts that the cleaner itself, and it's hose, is all clean and free of debris.

Do you have a leaf canister on the cleaner hose, or does the debris picked up by the cleaner end up in the pump strainer basket? The reason I ask is that the suction line dedicated to the cleaner may have become impaired by debris in that line, if the system was working fine in the past. You might want to consider adding a leaf canister if you don't have one. That would provide the same protection that the skimmer basket provides for its suction line.

If that's a possibility, the next thing I would do is open up the electric cleaner valve (remove the actuator, then take out the 8 screws and lift straight up). Then I'd stuff a garden hose down there as far as I can and try to seal around it somehow and force water back toward the pool, with the port held open at the pool, and see if anything comes out.

After being sure that suction line is not fouled, to get more suction coming through the cleaner, to get the rotation speed on the cleaner that you want, try partially closing the two valves beside the cleaner electric valve
 
I'll take a guess on your valves, in case it's helpful. Anyone else seeing this, please correct me or add possibilities if I'm out to lunch.

Left to right...
Small ones maybe water features such as waterfall or scuppers or a slide, those can be partially closed to achieve the effect you want.
First large one going down should be the return jets in the pool, I'm surprised that one is fully closed.
Three way electric valve could be return water to an elevated spa or up to solar heat on the roof
Next is a check valve that only allows flow in one direction
Small red valve obvious
Next is suction from skimmer or main drain, or possibly one of two skimmers?)
Then electric for cleaner line
Next is suction from skimmer or main drain (whichever the other one isn't)
Far right is suction from spa or possibly return water from solar heat on roof
I'm guessing it's spa, and currently set to overflow into the pool

At the back, there's a three-way valve by the heater which is for bypassing the heater.
 
I just thought of a better way to back-flush the cleaner suction line. Remove the pump (two unions to undo, then slide it out of the way). Close the three valves that do not go to the cleaner suction line. Stick garden hose in. Tape it up with duct tape to try to get a seal. Open the valve to the cleaner line. Then gradually turn it on and see if any debris comes out at the pool. There's also a fitting you can use to get a seal inside the pipe. I use tape because the fitting is expensive here! I think it's called a hose genie. With that fitting, you don't need to move the pump out of the way.
 
This is quoted from Jguy, who wrote it sometime before 2014 after which date he has not been heard from.

I have a 5 year old MX8 in which I replaced all inner parts with authentic Zodiac MX8 Tune Up Kit this weekend. I returned the cleaner to my pool, but it still runs very slowly & will stop when it encounters minor obstructions like the main drains. Flow regulator is installed. Yellow indicator in the wheel does NOT reach ideal 10 rotations w/in 20-25 seconds. Cleaner is controlled by automatic valve in which pump RPMs increase from 2800 to 4,250. Seems to working fine.

Thank you for any help & direction.
“Similar story here but with different conclusion. After working perfectly for most of last season I had a similar issue with my MX8. Zodiac support sent me a new A-side control. That seemed to help for a few days but before long the MX8 ws running in circles again. Over the winter I took the old A-side control apart and found no sign of wear or damage. Checked out everything including treads but it would still periodically run in circles due to either A or B side not driving. What I discovered was that the bevel gears on the drive shaft were not making reliable contact with the gears in the A and B controls. The bevel gears mount on a brass shaft that runs through the paddle that driven by water suction. The solution was to remove the bevel gear (simple size 4 screw) from the drive shaft and place two washers behind the gear. With that modification my MX8 has run perfectly all summer and I now have a spare A-side control.”
Many comments were made to this article, all of them saying he solved their problem.
 
“Similar story here but with different conclusion. After working perfectly for most of last season I had a similar issue with my MX8. Zodiac support sent me a new A-side control. That seemed to help for a few days but before long the MX8 ws running in circles again. Over the winter I took the old A-side control apart and found no sign of wear or damage. Checked out everything including treads but it would still periodically run in circles due to either A or B side not driving. What I discovered was that the bevel gears on the drive shaft were not making reliable contact with the gears in the A and B controls. The bevel gears mount on a brass shaft that runs through the paddle that driven by water suction. The solution was to remove the bevel gear (simple size 4 screw) from the drive shaft and place two washers behind the gear. With that modification my MX8 has run perfectly all summer and I now have a spare A-side control.”
Many comments were made to this article, all of them saying he solved their problem.
Please explain how you put the 2 washers behind the gears. There are 2 gears in each side of the shaft. What size washers are you referring to. Adding the washers on the shaft increase the length of the shaft and it won’t fit back in? I have similar problem with the drive shaft not fully engaged with the bevel gears even though the paddles are spinning. A photo will help. Thankyou.
 
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