Would like to convert

Daddymem

Member
Sep 10, 2023
13
MA
I just took over maintenance of my parent's pool; they live next door. They insist on Baquacil since opening it circa 1983. It is an 8,000 gallon above ground pool that has always had a dome on it. They drain it to just below the skimmer each year for the winter. They would go to a pool store every couple weeks for testing and follow instructions given to them. They were using store brand chemicals instead of bacquacil label and have a mix of different pool store stuff as pool stores opened and closed. They stopped using CDX years and years ago and had multiple issues with pink slime; at least 3 bad outbreaks I can remember. The pool also gets white mold; it has it now. The water has not been good for years. It was always cloudy, had a chemical smell, had a slick filmy feeling, and left a bad taste in your mouth. Nobody has been sick, but it just isn't right.

This summer, with my maintenance, is the first time that water is crystal clear (except the mold threads) that I can remember. But I've had to add 1 gallon of peroxide shock every single week and that is EXPENSIVE at $18 a gallon! Dad passed away in October last year, and mom doesn't go out to the pool so I am thinking of converting even though she probably would have a fit if she knew I did it. I know if I ask her she will say absolutely no because "this is the original liner and chlorine will destroy it." We're trying to think of a way to ease into convincing her. But who knows, she may throw a fit and take over maintenance again or just take the pool down.

Current regime as directed to me by my mom:
Test weekly with strips.
Adjust pH and alkalinity - rarely have to do, did it once this summer. We are on well water with basically nothing in it, very soft, and acidic.
Weekly add Poolmate Algecide 50
Weekly add BioGuard Pool Complete
Daily run 8-12 hours (this has been tough, she thinks it only needs to run a few hours)
Weekly or more often, backwash until clear running
It has a sand filter
They use a sock in skimmer

I don't see a problem with doing the conversion or maintenance once it is converted; I am a civil engineer and understand dilutions and solutions and have a little water chemistry background. The hardest part would be keeping it from her if we have to.

My concerns:
  1. If she finds out how much of a throttling will I get? That's a me problem.
  2. Any chance there is truth to the liner being so old a conversion to chlorine could damage or wreck it?
  3. Another question on something that I don't understand. They have not had to add the biguanide for years. My testing all summer has it higher than 30 ppm (the strips have colors for 30 and 50, it's darker than 30 but not quite 50). The pool store testing had the same, never told them they needed it. I found a bottle of biguanide in the leftover chemicals and it looks pretty old and she can't tell me when they last had to add it. But if a third of the pool is drained every year, even if 100% of the biguanide lasts forever, how can the levels be the same year after year without adding any since we are losing it when we drain for the season and every time we backwash???
TIA
 
how can the levels be the same year after year without adding any since we are losing it when we drain for the season and every time we backwash???
Biguanide is extremely stable in the water. Being a baqua user, I never checked the B level until last winter and was astounded to find there was still 30 ppm (this was sometime in late March) after last adding some the previous September.

Test weekly with strips.
Not the best way to do any sort of pool testing. I think many here will agree. A good Taylor kit with (drop) reagents is the most accurate way.
Weekly add BioGuard Pool Complete
Never heard of this product. Is this specifically for biguanide pools? Bottom line...if you have ANY interest in continuing with baqua the only way to get rid of the slime and mold, based on my extensive experience as a 23-year baqua user, is to also use a sort of weekly maintenance dose of Baquacil Line Clean (being discontinued but there's a product to replace it - basically KMPS formulations) and a product called "Ahhsome" (once a month) that is designed to control biofilm growth. Message me if you want to know more. If you convert, though, wishing you the best of luck. Best way to do that is to drain and refill. Having stopped using CDX will make things go easier if you decide to not fully drain.
 
Btw - a 40 yr old pool liner is on borrowed time no matter what you do. I would do a no drain water exchange to protect the liner then have a quick conversion.
Section 3.5👇
Follow the guide afterwards 👇
 
  • Like
Reactions: mgtfp and Newdude
Grrrr more reason to switch. Every time we go to the pool store they try to sell stuff we don't need, this time they got wifey. She was to get CDX or their equivalent (they have their own line of chemicals), Bacquacil line cleaner if they had it, and at least 4 bottles of peroxide shock to end the season and close up the pool for the winter.
They gave her an "algecide concentrate" we have plenty of, told her CDX is no longer available and gave her something called "enzyme concentrate" that doesn't have ingredient information so I don't know what it is but the label talks about scum lines, and only 1 gallon shock available.
I can't find the shock anywhere around here and we have at least another month of pool weather. Plenty of chlorine products at Ocean State Job Lot here though.
 
  • Sad
Reactions: Newdude and kimkats

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Just be aware that it's CDX that makes a Baqua conversion such a pain. There is a bromine based component in it. With any CDX residues left in the water you really want to drain and refill as much water as possible before starting a conversion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
Just be aware that it's CDX that makes a Baqua conversion such a pain. There is a bromine based component in it. With any CDX residues left in the water you really want to drain and refill as much water as possible before starting a conversion.
Yeah, here's my dilemma.

~$40 for CDX and if it reduces my shock usage like it is supposed to, for say 6 more weeks that's 2 shocks at $20 each for $80 with CDX leftover if I continue Baquacil.
vs
6 weeks with 1 shock a week for $120 IF I can even find that much, but I'd be more ready for conversion
OR
I could just declare pool season is over and close it up, but that's no fun. especially with this current heat and humidity wave.

We're going to test the waters with the idea of conversion given that my son's allergist suggested chlorine pools for his skin plus the difficulty finding peroxide shock late in the season.
 
We're going to test the waters with the idea of conversion given that my son's allergist suggested chlorine pools for his skin plus the difficulty finding peroxide shock late in the season.

That sounds like a reason for conversion that no grandmother in the world could ignore.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
Monetarily - draining & refilling with the no drain exchange then quickly converting (probably very quick not much liquid chlorine) Is likely your best solution for the rest of the season & going forward. If you do a complete water exchange you shouldn’t have to deal with a long conversion which means less time at higher fc levels & less $5/gal liquid chlorine since there’s concern for your liner.
*Food for thought- after the changeover, possibly next season, With an 8k gallon covered pool you could also use an intex 15k gal swcg (qs1200) to chlorinate your pool daily. The convenience would likely really benefit you since you’re managing someone else’s pool.
It would pay for itself in about 11 weeks compared to buying the chems you’re currently buying. They don’t last as long as more robust “permanent” models (usually about 3-4 years vs 6-7yrs) but they don’t cost as much either.
Being as how you already have a 40 yr old above ground pool they are a good value for your situation at around $200 currently.
There are some inexpensive fittings needed to connect it to your plumbing as intex has proprietary threads.
The average pool uses 2-4ppm worth of fc each day - yours will likely be on the low end due to the bubble.
So somewhere around 1/4 gal of liquid chlorine each day to give you an idea of what to expect when manually dosing your pool.
 
She was to get CDX or their equivalent (they have their own line of chemicals), Bacquacil line cleaner if they had it, and at least 4 bottles of peroxide shock to end the season and close up the pool for the winter.
If you're looking to close fairly soon, no need to add any CDX, which only allegedly helps to preserve oxidizer level (I question how much it truly does). Line Clean would be good if you're going to run the filter at least a few more days, but if not this could wait till next year also (unless converting to chlorine in which case surely don't add ANY more CDX).

~$40 for CDX and if it reduces my shock usage like it is supposed to
As I said, I truly wonder about this. I've never really seen much difference but then I've never been able to hold the recommended level of Oxidizer anyway. I don't worry about it anymore since using a "weekly dose" of line clean (my own concoction since there really doesn't seem to be such a thing as a "maintenance dose" of KMPS). I just kept experimenting with different amounts till I found something that seems to work and doesn't leave a strong odor after adding it. If my water is clear and I'm not seeing any mold or slime, I'm good. Hardly used any CDX this season. I use a half-gallon of Oxidizer once a week and done. There is an (expensive) Taylor kit that tests for biguanide and oxidizer. I've never had much luck with the biguanide side of the kit since the color titration is interfered with by certain quats that are in algicides.

my son's allergist suggested chlorine pools for his skin plus the difficulty finding peroxide shock late in the season.
Interesting. Based on what? Has he ever had a reaction to baquacil?

Every time we go to the pool store they try to sell stuff we don't need,
Amen to that. I think everyone here agrees with your statement. No matter which chemical system you wind up using, start doing your own testing with a good reagent kit. Best of luck!! I'll add one final thought on using baqua. Not sure what sort of filtration system you have, but I'm learning that how DE grids are cleaned is critical to the success (or not) of making baqua work over the long run. Used to use the typical filter cleaner solutions for years - and it worked quite well - but I truly believe the DE grid material has changed (not for the better most likely). Seems to clog up quicker than in years past. No secret that baqua chemicals are hard on the filter (my friend who uses sand says the same thing). I started cleaning each grid individually by taking apart the entire assy and scrubbing each on both sides with acid magic. The water has never felt so fresh and clean (other than after adding a fresh fill following renovation 9 years ago). Filtration cycles are lasting much longer. That's enough on baqua since you're probably looking to convert.
 
Last edited:
The allergist is saying the chlorine helps with his skin, even suggests baths in a bleach solution. It's not that bacquacil irritates his skin.
This is a common recommendation for eczema & psoriasis! It really surprised me when I saw the bleach bath recommendation on a pamphlet at the pediatrician office.
I asked the doctor & he said it’s Primarily to prevent any secondary infections that often result from scratching irritated skin which prevents the skin from healing itself.
My hubby suffered for years with his feet - he said it itches to the bone. It would get better during the summer if he used the pool. After getting the hot tub (which he uses more regularly than the pool) the problem is completely gone & has never returned. We have went through every cream & ointment there is! Countless trips & $$ at the dermatologists. Chlorinated soaks was apparently his cure.
 
Well that went over as good as a fart in church - no way she says.
Looks like bacquacil for now still.
I'm going to get some Potassium Monopersulfate shock for the rest of the season, I've got one gallon of peroxide shock still too.
I'm also going to try Ahh-Some- Swimming Pool Clarifier Gel.
Any other suggestions for the white mold - it is a pretty mild case, the water aside from that has been fabulous all summer.

Maybe we can change her mind over the winter.
 
White mold is a bacteria that is allowed to thrive by having low sanitizer levels.
MPS is not a sanitizer- just an oxidizer.
Peroxide is not a sanitizer- it is an oxidizer in this system.
The answer is more sanitizer. Which is biguanide if you are continuing with this system.
The Ahhsome line clean will assist with removing biofilms in the plumbing etc. allowing the sanitizer to work on the bacteria but it is not a sanitizer itself.
All the other things you have been adding (like algaecide 50) may be keeping the pool algae free & somewhat clearish but the white mold tells me it is unsanitary.
 
  • Like
Reactions: anthonypool89
White mold is a fungus, not a bacteria.
Just tested and vacuumed the pool and voila...no white mold. Or is there something else similar? It was white, short strings. Appeared to be a film on the liner that bunched up into threads upon brushing. Anyways, I did an extra algaecide dose and a flocculant Sunday.
The sanitizer level is 45. Strips, definitely a lot darker that 30.
pH 7.2 so I added some pH up.
Alkalinity 80. I'll raise that next week or maybe tomorrow.
Oxidizer 10% which is higher than 0% it has been every Saturday.
Water feels great. Looks great. Awesome to be swimming in the rain and wind while Lee passes by.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.