Wiring

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Pysiek said:
My neighbor just did his electrical work on the pool and he pounded about 5 ft of galvanized pipe into the ground next to his motor. He told me it is for grounding.
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Grounding what??????? A ground rod will not clear a fault. In fact, you can drive a dozen rods and they, all connected together, will not clear a fault. Several years ago, I got into quite a heated discussion about this. To prove my point, I drove a standard 10' ground rod, connected a 12 gage wire directly to it from a 20 amp breaker. I then asked my "buddy" to turn the breaker on. He refused to, saying that it would cause a dead short and possibly an ark flash. So, I turned it on....Guess what?, nothing happened. I put my clamp-on amp meter on the line and barely registered 1 amp draw. One of the most common myths in electricity is that electricity seeks ground. It does not. It seeks its source. In the case of residential electricity that source is the zero reference center tap on the pole mounted transformer at the street.




Pysiek said:
But I will do as you guys said. Run green wire back to the circuit panel.
Almost forgot. My filter motor is 115V and 12Amp. So I should be fine with 15Amp breaker in the circuit box?
Also let me get everything cleared here. By consultation with one of the guys in electrical department at my local store, I decided to go with the GFCI that is in line and outside the circuit panel. ( I know I change my mind a lot). I run 3 wires: black(hot),white (neutral) and green (ground). So I will have GFCI , timer and receptacle installed. I run black,white and green wire to the GFCI next black and white to timer next to receptacle. Green wire runs out of gfci straight to pump receptacle. Is that correct?
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Everything sounds good, Just remember not to use standard NM romex. It is not rated for wet/damp locations and anything buried underground either in or out of conduit is considered a wet location. Buy THWN wire in the three colors you need and pull it thru the conduit. inside the junction boxes. GFCI, switches, etc the ground must be wire nutted together with a pigtail to the device and one to the box if it is metal
 
This is cut and past but it relates to pounding a rod in an turning on the current. You might not register "much" amperage in the line but it doesn't take much to kill you.
"While any amount of current over 10 milliamps (0.01 amp) is capable of producing painful to severe shock, currents between 100 and 200 mA (0.1 to 0.2 amp) are lethal. Currents above 200 milliamps (0.2 amp), while producing severe burns and unconsciousness, do not usually cause death if the victim is given immediate attention."

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_3/4.html
 
I'm glad I asked about the rod. But it looks like a lot of pool installations have ground rod. Over the weekend I went to my cousins house to help him with his pool. I looked at the electrical outlet he has for the motor and he also have a ground rod next to it.
But as you guys said I will not put one by my pool.
 
Pysiek said:
He run a green wire from motor to the rod
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Understood, I assumed that. Problem is, unless he ran a ground wire back to the panel, he is fooling himself. If there were ever a short in the system that the GFCI did not cover, the ground rod will do nothing to cause the circuit to trip. At best this is nothing more than a bond connection between the earth and the motor housing.
 
Also I have not backfilled the pool yet. So can I just place a bonding copper wire around and then backfill ? The copper wire will be buried about 2 feet under ground.
 
There are calculators out there in the interweb that will tell you the number of wires acceptable in a conduit.
That is not many wires, so would guess that 1/2" is plenty big, but you should confirm.
 

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Guys what wire did you use for the single twist lock plug? I found a cable at work with 3 #12AWG wires in it - white,green and black. Here is the info that is printed on the cable. Please let me know if this is good:
COLEMAN CABLE SEOPRENE 105 12-3 SJEOW (UL) 300V 105C P-241-3-MSHA CSA LL39753 12-3 SJTOW (TPE) 105C (-50C) FT2 WATER-RESISTANT
 
I'm sorry I have not updated my thread. Last Monday I had surgery and have been in some pain. Right before surgery I Have been able to finish the whole wiring except replacing factory pump cord with twist lock cord. I need to go and buy terminals to connect wires to the pump. Cannot drive now. Maybe next week. My doctor told me to stay in bed for at least a week before I do anything. Hopefully will take some pictures tomorrow and post them here.
Also the hardest part was to dig the ditch. And I end up putting GFCI breaker in the main box
 

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