Why do I have to recalibrate the salt level daily?? Hayward with 5 week old Salt Solutions cell

kmom

0
Oct 12, 2015
58
DFW
Pool Size
13500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
Pool salt cell history:
2016 pool build, Hayward ProLogic system with T-cell 9
2020 noticed the cell was not producing as much chlorine, set the percentage higher
2021- learned the hard way not to add salt when the system says “low salt”. Original t-cell 9 reached the end of its usable life, decided to wait to replace the cell until the following spring
2022- April-purchased a refurbished t-cell 15 from Salt Solutions Inc. July-cell no longer producing, took to pool store for salt cell test and it failed. Salt Solutions replaced cell. Been using a different refurbished t-cell 15 for only about 4-5 weeks now.

Problem:
My system is saying the salt level is too low. I tested my salt with Taylor 1766 & speed stir and my true salt level is 3000ppm. I have been recalibrating my salt level every single day (diagnostics menu, change the polarity, go to the instant salt screen, then press + to save salt reading as it is falling). The system still generates chlorine after I do this, but the salt reading drops consistently throughout the day until it gets so low that I get the “check system/low salt” every single day.

Question:
What is going on? Is the problem with my Hayward ProLogic system/control board? Is something about my set up killing these cells? I had read good things about Salt Solutions, perhaps that isn’t true and their products really are this poor quality? Should I try to return it and purchase an OEM cell?
 
Did you adjust the setting in the system to a T15?

With the correct cell in place, move the switch to auto and momentarily push the diagnostic button to display the cell type "T-X". Then move the switch to Superchlorinate and back to auto 3x or until T-15 or whatever the correct cell type is shown on the display.
 
Did you adjust the setting in the system to a T15?

With the correct cell in place, move the switch to auto and momentarily push the diagnostic button to display the cell type "T-X". Then move the switch to Superchlorinate and back to auto 3x or until T-15 or whatever the correct cell type is shown on the display.
I did when I first installed it, yes. The method is different on the ProLogic system, but yes, it is set for T-15.
 
I posted this somewhere else, but just to make sure.......Are you certain the cell was installed "upside down" if installed horizontally? I only say that because I have a vsp and when I installed my t15 cell I did not invert it originally. I seemed to be having the same issues (reading salt around the 1500 range when in actuality it was 3000-3200) until I changed it. At fast speeds it will still work out right side up but if you recently switched vsp/started running at lower speeds, and that's not upside down, it will definitely cause low salt readings.
 

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Check your flow switch with a multimeter and confirm it opens when there is no water flow.

Your symptoms are seen when the SWG is powered when the pump is off.

What is your pump run schedule?

Your signature shows a 2 speed pump. What speeds are run when? What model pump?
 
I posted this somewhere else, but just to make sure.......Are you certain the cell was installed "upside down" if installed horizontally? I only say that because I have a vsp and when I installed my t15 cell I did not invert it originally. I seemed to be having the same issues (reading salt around the 1500 range when in actuality it was 3000-3200) until I changed it. At fast speeds it will still work out right side up but if you recently switched vsp/started running at lower speeds, and that's not upside down, it will definitely cause low salt readings.
It is not inverted. My original cell was never inverted, so I never thought to do that. Your theory makes sense because we run the pump at a lower speed in the evenings, which might be contributing to the lower salt readings. I tried spinning it around to have it be inverted, and water just sprays out the unions. I tried unscrewing it, making sure it was aligned properly, and tightening it several times with the same result every time which makes no sense to me. I turned it right side up and no leaks. I am not sure why that is happening.

Edit: I think it leaks (or rather, sprays water everywhere) from the unions because the inverted installation is for low flow situations. But when my pump first comes on, it primes at 100% speed for 2 minutes before settling into the lower programmed speed. I am thinking the 100% speed is just too high for the inverted installation and I am not sure how to work around this.
 
Last edited:
Check your flow switch with a multimeter and confirm it opens when there is no water flow.

Your symptoms are seen when the SWG is powered when the pump is off.

What is your pump run schedule?

Your signature shows a 2 speed pump. What speeds are run when? What model pump?
I am not sure how to test the flow switch. Do you know where I can find that info?

I actually need to update my signature. We recently replaced the pump to the Hayward Tristar VS950 (our original dual speed pump was damaged by a hail storm). We run it from 3:30am-8:00am at 75% and 5:30pm-8:00pm at 50%.
 
I am not sure how to test the flow switch. Do you know where I can find that info?

Do you have a multimeter?

Do you know how to do a continuity test using a multimeter?

The flow switch is before or after your cell in your plumbing and has a wire running into what looks like a telephone jack on the bottom of your Prologic panel.
 
Last night I changed the VS pump to run at 75% (instead of 50%) in case it was the low flow that was causing the salt reading to drop. I had recalibrated the salt level to 3500ppm around 5:30pm, and this morning it reads 2700ppm.
 
After more observation, it seems the salt level only drops when the cell is switching polarity. Otherwise it will maintain whatever salt level I save. I am still scratching my head over this. Any ideas?
 

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Hayward cells reverse polarity every 120 or 180 minutes depending on the firmware level you have.

Show us the diagnostics in both polarities…

  • Report all readings when you..
    • Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.
    • When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
    • Then, press + again and note the new readings.
 
I have taken a few readings.
9/2 5:30pm
-26.41V -4.87A
80° 2000PPM
+26.73V +4.75A
80° 1900PPM

9/3 7:50am
-27.21V -4.9A
77° 2000PPM
+27.21V +5.07A
76° 2000PPM


9/3 2:15pm
Default menu showed 85° 2900PPM
+26.73 +4.66A
81° 1800PPM
(I did not switch polarity this time, I was going to wait for it to switch on its own to see the natural reading, but then I forgot to go back because we had people over)

9/4 7:00pm
Default menu: 83° 2800ppm
+27.06V 4.6A
78° 1800ppm
-26.73V -5.29A
78° 2200ppm
After I switched the polarity is when “check system” started flashing and default menu salt says 2700ppm, which I believe is the threshold.
(I had previously manually reset the salt level to 3200 several hours prior.)
 
Numbers from this morning.
Default menu: 81°, 2500ppm
-27.25V -4.98A
75° 2000ppm
+27.37V +4.87A
76° 1900ppm
 
If your K-1766 salt level is 3000 and the diagnostics are saying 2000 that is 66% efficiency and for a Hayward cell it would indicate end of its life.
 
If your K-1766 salt level is 3000 and the diagnostics are saying 2000 that is 66% efficiency and for a Hayward cell it would indicate end of its life.
This is not an older Hayward cell. This is a 5 week old refurbished call from Salt Solutions. My second one, because the first one died within 3 months of use. That first cell from Salt Solutions did not present these same symptoms, that one simply stopped producing any chlorine.

I am going to be giving them a call, but I am trying to figure out if there is something else within my system that can be causing these problems besides the cell itself.
 
I can only tell you how the Aquarite was designed to work with Hayward equipment.

So far people who had problems with third party cells and then replace them with a Hayward cell find their system worked normally.
 
Then perhaps I should just go buy an OEM cell and try to see if Salt Solutions will take a return.
 
I called Salt Solutions today and they are shipping me a replacement cell. I will say, Salt Solutions has had great customer service through all my issues. Hopefully the third cell will be the charm.
 

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