What temp will the SWG work?

[pb4uswim]

Was thinking of an early open but just read something that said the SWG won’t work until the water temp hits 60 degrees. Is that true? If so, is there a corresponding temp for when algae starts to grow? Looking under the cover, the water looks clear. In S.E. Mich, we still looking at mid April to May before we stop having nights in the 30’s. Not freezing, but the water isn’t going to hit 60 anytime soon. I’ll heat it in late May but didn’t really want to start before then. Also don’t really want to feed it LC for a month.

Is this a real issue or should I just open it and deal with whatever happens?

 

[markayash]

I have a circupool edge and my water is around 57 and it’s working great. In fact I had to back it down when my FC hit 10.
It was a warning light for cold water but hasn’t been alarming.

 

[pb4uswim]

I’m not sure if it matters, but what I read was specifically discussing a Hayward SWG. I didn’t specifically look up Hayward, but that was the first article that popped up so maybe it’s unique to Hayward?

 

[Mdragger88]

They are all a little different “around 60 degrees” is what most people experience.
My intex units have all operated below 60 degrees.
Algae growth is just slowed at temps below 60 & it proliferates faster as the temps rise. My water is warming up - currently around 58 degrees. The outdoor temps here are steadily rising.
I plan to have my pool running this weekend and will just leave the cover on so I don’t have to fight with all the pods & pollen. I am currently sitting @14ppm fc. So I have a little time to get it together.
You can always add some liquid chlorine & brush it around so you know you won’t fall too low before opening.

 

[generessler]

Consider reading the manual for your SWG. The specs differ in many details among brands. Often, asking TFP is a great way to learn. But for specifics like this, RTFM is best (imo), especially if you're still in the SWG warranty period.

The other bit is that when water temp is in something up to low 60s, one gallon of LQ will maintain levels for a couple of months, adding once a week or less. Don't fret about the SWG.

 

[markayash]

What’s a manual?

I was curious and looked online for my edge and read this. Didn’t list a certain temp.
Also learned I don’t have a low temp light

Very little chlorine is necessary at low temperatures. The EDGE Series will not produce normal chlorine levels at cold temperatures. This feature extends the lifespan of the Cell.

 

[pb4uswim]

Consider reading the manual for your SWG. The specs differ in many details among brands. Often, asking TFP is a great way to learn. But for specifics like this, RTFM is best (imo), especially if you're still in the SWG warranty period.

The other bit is that when water temp is in something up to low 60s, one gallon of LQ will maintain levels for a couple of months, adding once a week or less. Don't fret about the SWG.

Manual not necessary, just looking for a confirmation that a SWG doesn’t work at low temps. Specific temp isn’t important. The rest of your post is more what I was trying to understand. If it won’t use much LC and algae is less aggressive in cooler water, that will make it easy to open quicker. Thanks.

 

[Texas Splash]

As noted above, a specific temp cut-off can vary slightly by make/model. If your MI water temp is still well below 60, you might wait before using the cell. Cold water generally means less conductivity. So while it is true that running the cell in cold water might seem to be working and probably won't produce chlorine as efficiently, more importantly it could actually damage the plates inside the cell. This is only an issue when the cell is energized. Cold water (alone) doesn't hurt the plates, it's the lack of good conductivity. The SWG "should" throw a low temp error if it thinks the water is too cold as a protective measure. Some SWGs might throw a low salt error instead, but don't fall for that right away. Confirm the salt level later when the water is a little warmer. Welcome to another pool season.

 

[pb4uswim]

Welcome to another pool season.

Thanks. I have my test kit refills and am ready! This is an exciting year. Last year I had health issues and couldn’t swim. Actually was worried if I’d ever be able to swim. I had a catheter for dialysis and it was not recommended to swim. Well, my situation improved enough to get off dialysis and I just had the catheter removed. I’m so ready to swim I can’t stand it. The only question now is how soon I’ll turn on the heater.

 

[Newdude]

As noted above, a specific temp cut-off can vary slightly by make/mode

It will even vary in the same model as all inexpensive thermometers can be off by 3 degrees. I've found mine to be picky some days and lenient others.

 

[jmastron]

My Calimar CMARSHA generates chlorine down to 51 degrees F (gives a "COLD" error at 50), and that's by its measurement, which is ~3 degrees higher than my pool thermometer (so it works down to what I measure as 47 degrees, but I don't really know which one is more accurate). I think that's true of most of the "Hayward-like" units.

I did read somewhere that it scales the output down automatically (20%?) below 60, which might be where that number comes from. But chlorine demand is a lot lower in the winter, so I'm able to keep up with just the SWCG whenever the temp is >50.

There's an argument that algae doesn't grow in water below 60 degrees anyway, so in theory one could just ignore it when in the low 50s or below. I prefer to keep balanced all year (we don't freeze), so this winter I used 2 gallons of liquid chlorine to keep it up during the 2 month <50 strech.

 

[jesse-99]

Not sure what the manuals specifically say, but my Jandy SWG 1400 was producing chrlorine around 55-60 degrees this last Fall. I think once the water temp got below that, it would throw a code and no longer produce.. That's just my recollection however.