What is everyone using for pool brush and measuring equipment?

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tradewinds

tradewinds

Well-known member
Jul 22, 2023
242
Central Florida
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Before I use up or break our glass kitchen measuring device or the markings get rubbed off from chemicals and before I go buy junk items or kill our postage scale, what is the go to and recommended items for:
  • Pool brush
  • Brush pole
  • Measuring scale for chemicals
  • Measuring container for chemicals
Thanks.
 
The pro tuff pole, brush and net are on my wishlist. With a lifetime warranty that they actually honor per many online reviews, it's buy once / cry once.

Pool Brushing - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Buy a plastic measuring cup, because no glass at the pool, ever. :)

For larger than that adds, eyeballing is fine. If you need half a 5 lb bag of CYA, for example, 1/2 of a pound either way isn't going to change the price of beer. The same goes for liquid chlorine, salt and muriatic acid. They're all getting diluted by 15k gallons in your case.
 
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There is nothing I need to measure in a cup.

The less you handle and transfer chemicals the safer it will be.

You can estimate liquid volumes close enough.
 
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So, it seems the three or four things will be:
  • MA
  • LC
  • Baking Soda
  • Salt (when SWG is hooked up)
  • Maybe one time calcium add?
I'm just trying to determine what to tell PoolMath when it asks if I added the suggested or different amount and it seems that the testing titration needs to be precise but the added chemicals not so much. I had assume preciseness was needed for all of it.
 
e.g., trying to get pH to 7.6. Added MA today per what PM recommended. Was 8.1, now looks like 7.7. PM says to add 4oz. of MA, seems without a measuring device I can easily overshoot and drop the pH too low and have to play ping-pong.

However, since ideal range is 7.6 to 7.8, I should just leave it.
 

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  • MA - pour in an estimate directly from the jug, test after 15-30 minutes, if you undershot add a bit more and repeat, if you added too much it will self correct. Pretty soon you will be hitting you marks and need to test less.
  • LC - pour in an estimate directly from the jug, test after 15-30 minutes, if you undershot add a bit more and repeat, if you added too much it will self correct. Pretty soon you will be hitting you marks and need to test less.
  • Baking Soda - never need to use baking soda. If you manage your pH correctly your TA will always be fine.
  • Salt (when SWG is hooked up) - when salt is low you add a 40lb bag. No reason to measure less. A 40lbs bag dives you maybe 250ppm in salt. Wait to add salt until you need a full bag.
  • Maybe one time calcium add? - you are adding 25lbs or 40lbs bags. Full bags get you close enough +/-.

tradewinds said:
I'm just trying to determine what to tell PoolMath when it asks if I added the suggested or different amount and it seems that the testing titration needs to be precise but the added chemicals not so much. I had assume preciseness was needed for all of it.
Click to expand...

Everything in TFP guidelines is stated in a range. Anywhere int he range is equally good. Manage your chemicals between the low end and high end of the ranges.

Pool water chemistry is an analog science. Titration is an analog process. You are trying to apply digital preciseness to an analog process.

You are playing a game of close enough, not match the numbers.
 
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tradewinds said:
e.g., trying to get pH to 7.6. Added MA today per what PM recommended. Was 8.1, now looks like 7.7. PM says to add 4oz. of MA, seems without a measuring device I can easily overshoot and drop the pH too low and have to play ping-pong.
Click to expand...

7.7 is close enough. STOP!

Wait until your pH rises to 8 and try again.

Anywhere around your target is good enough. Move on.
 
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It's interesting you haven't ever had to add baking soda. I seem to need to add a bunch of it perhaps due to having to add fill water (aquifer well) and lots of water features.
 
A $1 plastic measuring cup is sufficient for small ma doses - you really don’t want to pour acid or chlorine into a metal container.
I buy liquid chlorine in 2.5 gallon jugs so I use a $1 plastic gallon pitcher for that. It has marks on it.
Buy new ones every year. They deteriorate- $2
You probably won’t really need baking soda but if you do you can eyeball the amount or just buy 1# boxes.
I have only needed baking soda once or twice in the last 8 years.
Same goes for calcium chloride, cya & salt 1/2 a bag or whatever
The only time I weighed anything is sometimes for my hot tub. I have a cheap kitchen scale that I use for ebay packages before I got that I used the regular scale & hold the item then set it down & weigh again.
The fanciest thing you need is your kit & if you’ve got the coin the pro tuff stuff is the way to go.
 
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tradewinds said:
It's interesting you haven't ever had to add baking soda. I seem to need to add a bunch of it perhaps due to having to add fill water (aquifer well) and lots of water features.
Click to expand...
Any ta 50 or above is fine.
Running your water features alot is increasing your ph. Along with your new plaster.
You need to run some chlorinated water through them daily for about 30 minutes each time but they shouldn’t be running all the time. Find a schedule that works with when you want to see them and have them off otherwise.
 
Mdragger88 said:
Any ta 50 or above is fine.
Running your water features alot is increasing your ph. Along with your new plaster.
You need to run some chlorinated water through them daily for about 30 minutes each time but they shouldn’t be running all the time. Find a schedule that works with when you want to see them and have them off otherwise.
Click to expand...
I do 10 AM - 2 PM and sunset to 11 PM. Bubbler is usually on 24x7 with ramp down pump when rest of features are not running.
 
tradewinds said:
It's interesting you haven't ever had to add baking soda. I seem to need to add a bunch of it perhaps due to having to add fill water (aquifer well) and lots of water features.
Click to expand...

Give me numbers.

Running water features affects pH and not TA.
 
I will say that I would forget about the measuring cup and scale. I have been eyeballing liquid and powders for a long time and a few ounces of either one way or another is not going to matter a lot.

I have the Protuff leaf rake, it's very nice and supposedly carries a lifetime warranty. I don't own but like their pole design, I have a painting pole that uses a similar locking mechanism and it's great; I'm just using the pole that the store put into the pool package, same with the brush and skimmer. I'm not 100% sold on their brush idea with removable side pieces.
 
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Mdragger88 said:
A $1 plastic measuring cup is sufficient for small ma doses - you really don’t want to pour acid or chlorine into a metal container.
I buy liquid chlorine in 2.5 gallon jugs so I use a $1 plastic gallon pitcher for that. It has marks on it.
Buy new ones every year. They deteriorate- $2
You probably won’t really need baking soda but if you do you can eyeball the amount or just buy 1# boxes.
I have only needed baking soda once or twice in the last 8 years.
Same goes for calcium chloride, cya & salt 1/2 a bag or whatever
The only time I weighed anything is sometimes for my hot tub. I have a cheap kitchen scale that I use for ebay packages before I got that I used the regular scale & hold the item then set it down & weigh again.
The fanciest thing you need is your kit & if you’ve got the coin the pro tuff stuff is the way to go.
Click to expand...
I got the coin but I'm frugal unless I get value for the coin ;-)

Yeah, probably don't need the metal measuring cup. Can use a solo cup I guess. But will take the advise and estimate and just tell PM I added the recommended amount.

May just get the scale. PB bought a Spartan brush, so may just get the pro tuff pole for now.
 

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