Water dump and CYA goes Higher

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Groverdon60

Member
Jun 22, 2023
10
Ft. Worth Texas
Good afternoon, I just joined to see if I could get help with CYA problem. My location N. Texas, pool size approximately 20,000 gallons FW in ground with spa, Jandy equipment. I had this problem few years back and dumped water as recommended. I use Sams club tabs and shock and an algaecide.
Now to the problem: week ago added shock in preparation for kids and grandkids and was reading an 8ppm chlorine, 7.2 ph, 150 TA. While swimming with goggles pool slightly cloudy. After 3-4 days everyone went home, check chlorine level and 0-ppm. I had a sample analyzed at local big name store and following numbers:
FC-2.83, TC-2.83, ph-7.2, TA-61, calcium-436, ***CYa-151, copper-.5, phosphates-364, TDS-3200.
At their recommendation dumped water and refill.
Added 8000 gallons water ran pump full day and retest just few minutes ago with big store.
Fc-.22, TC-.22, ph-7.4, TA-46, Calcium-311, ***CYa-167, copper-.6, phosphates-264, TDS-1500.
I ran my own test and have 0 chlorine, ph7.4, TA-100, CYA over 100.. Taylor K2006 test kit.
Their recommendation, dont worry with CYa now that they have no idea why CYA went up instead of down after dumping that much water, just add 18 lbs baking soda and bring TA up and then use non binding shock.
I am so sorry this was long story, but its a true one. I like taking care of my own stuff but apparently I need better help than what I have been receiving. Any suggestions are welcome
 
Groverdon60 said:
I ran my own test and have 0 chlorine, ph7.4, TA-100, CYA over 100.. Taylor K2006 test kit.
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Your testing. This is all that matters. Everything done by the pool store (testing and advice) is incorrect - as usual. Trust your own K-2006 test kit. That's #1.

Now, your CYA is confirmed as too high (well over 100). You will need to exchange water again. This time of year in TX a CYA of 50 is fine. You can even get by with a CYA of 60 or 70 with a non-salt pool. Keep in mind however you have had algae, and based on what you said it has not been resolved. To kill & remove algae, you'll need to do a SLAM Process. For that reason, a lower CYA of 50 will allow you to maintain a lower FC SLAM level per the FC/CYA Levels. Your choice. But you need the CYA down to 70 or lower.

So first you need to lower the CYA, then prepare for the SLAM Process. Use liquid chlorine from now on. Those pool store tabs and powders are driving your CYA through the roof. Get in the habit of adding some liquid chlorine each day and you'll never have this problem again. Easy stuff.

Also see our Pool Care Basics page for lots of great info. If you have any questions let us know.

Welcome to TFP! :wave:
 
Groverdon60 said:
I like taking care of my own stuff but apparently I need better help than what I have been receiving. Any suggestions are welcome
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If you are a DIYer, you've come to the right place and you'll get tons of help. We have lots of suggestion and the #1 is ditch the pool store and trust your own test kit. The Taylor K2006 is just what you need. Are you reagents fresh? (Just checking!) Assuming so, go with your numbers.
CYA is generally high when people use pucks. So if you've been using those, no more! Stick to liquid chlorine only and no powdered shock either. If you are ok with doing the pool work yourself, you'll add chlorine daily but you also won't have this up and down cycle.
Pool stores exist to sell you a bunch of junk, and treatments for the problems the first round of junk caused. Then when they are all out of junk to sell you, they tell you that you need "fresh water" and just to drain it because they don't really know.

Since your CYA is over 90, try doing a diluted test to see what your actual number so you'll know how much water to replace.
 
Thanks for the reply. To be honest not 100% how old my test kit or supplies are. And after reading the diluted test i notice that my container is a 7/14, not 15/30. Now I assume you would perform same way, pool water 7ml, tap water to the 15ml line. Mix well, pour out to 7ml line and ise the r0013 as normal x 2?
*Also i do not have a algae problem since using algaecide few years back.
* Another concern was dumping 8000 gallons and CYA number going up instead of down.
 
Groverdon60 said:
To be honest not 100% how old my test kit or supplies are.
* Another concern was dumping 8000 gallons and CYA number going up instead of down.
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It's impossible for CYA to rise after exchanging water. It is testing error, possibly due to your old reagents. I suggest you buy a fresh set of reagents for your K2006.
 
I am back! Sorry for delay but waited for tstestkits to deliver new product.
CYA test with new reagents confirm over 100 ppm. Ran a diluted test same results over 100. I ran a test straight out of water hose and and shows no CYA.
So not real sure why dumping and adding 8000 gallons did not at least drop CYA a little from stores 2-test.
I will say that my water is pretty clean and clear and all the purple stains are gone from Hot tub over flow and cleaner hose. Which brings me to a question, can an algaecide mask a CYA number, or do I just need to dump more water??
 
Groverdon60 said:
CYA test with new reagents confirm over 100 ppm. Ran a diluted test same results over 100
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So you're well into the 200s, or even more.
Groverdon60 said:
So not real sure why dumping and adding 8000 gallons did not at least drop CYA a little from stores 2-test.
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Do you believe us yet that pool store testing is like playing blindfolded darts ? Maybe they hit one, maybe they hit their friend in the leg. 🤷‍♂️
Groverdon60 said:
can an algaecide mask a CYA number, or do I just need to dump more water??
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You still need to dump 75%+ of your water. Do a double dilution test with one part pool water and two parts tap water. Mix that sample up 50/50 with the R0013. Multiply by 3.

If it's 300, a 75% drain will only drop you to 75 and you'll want to drain even more.
 

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So its 105* and a Heat Index 113*. I think I will start this project in am when its only 80 or so, LOL. Thanks again, looking forward to getting cya down and pool chemistry back right. If experience teaches me anything, it will be to sell my pucks and shock and not have this problem again.
 
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After refilling with approx 23,000 gals fw, Finally was able to test water.
FC=0
Ph=>8
TA=100-110
Ca=200
CYA=<50
So with just a little bit of reading looks like drop ph first and then work on chlorine, is that best way to start, or at least a way to start?
 
+1. We know you're learning and all, but don't end up at minimum, end up at low target. That way, if a particularly high UV day rolls through, a big storm, or the Mrs calls and says she played hookey and is having a swim day with some friends/kids...... you're covered.
 
Groverdon60 said:
goal was already to get 5-7ppm.
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The goal for someone learning is to *finish* at 5+. If you get to 5 or 6, but lose 3 or 4 ppm before the next dose, you're gonna have a bad time.

Early and late season, when daily loss may be 1ppm, aiming for 5 is plenty. But this time of year we are all losing our max of the season and we need to bump the target accordingly.
 
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