Viking "Destiny River" rebuild.

[RDspaguy]

Got this one in a while ago but weather, health, and money kept it sitting. It was frozen and someone attempted a repair with flex seal (or something like it). While I would not expect it to work on a spa pressure side plumbing anyway, it's certainly not helping when it's on top of spray foam.
Shell is a roto-mold I think they call it, what I call a tupperware tub. It is heavily damaged, all signs say it was used as a dumpster for roofing waste. If acrylic/fiberglass it would be all but unfixable, at least by me, but since it's all one material, no clearcoat, and a semi-dull finish I feel good about sanding it.
Cabinet has also been poorly "repaired" and will have to be re-done. At least I have most of the pieces.
Balboa/WW, non-circ, with stereo (that needs replaced). DEEP tub.
Some pics.

 

[RDspaguy]

Heating the old flex to make it flexible again. Dug back enough for play as the other pipe is rigid pvc.


And that, ladies and gentlemen, is how it's done.
Did a bunch of sanding on the shell, it's looking fantastic. The scratches didn't really show in pics so no point in before/after there.
Now to replace the frozen pumps (I have a couple that will work perfect) and fill it up. If I'm lucky I got all the leaks located in the first round.

 

[Mdragger88]

Are the dwv pvc fittings not an issue for a spa?
They are a definite no no with pool plumbing as they are for non pressurized applications.

 

[VinnyinNJ]

Looks good! You want to come to Jersey and work on mine?

At some point I will need to work on mine ... of course I'll need the tub after the repair!

Maybe I'll even put in an ozonator again!

 

[RDspaguy]

Are the dwv pvc fittings not an issue for a spa?
They are a definite no no with pool plumbing as they are for non pressurized applications.

It's not ideal, especially on a flex pipe, but I've used them in a pinch a time or two before and had no issues. Couldn't find that configuration in stock in a pressure fitting, and because it is a juncture of two pump pressure lines I need the angle for flow, a tee and 45 would not work right, and a split Y would not fit without replacing a check valve and another 20+ jet manifold assembly that appears to have survived the freeze. I'll take my chances. I glued in rigid, square cut, sanded, and beveled, to connect the couplings for the joint to the old pipe as a precaution.
Since it's going to my wifes' friend, I'm sure I'll find out if it's ever a problem in my lifetime.

 

[RDspaguy]

You want to come to Jersey and work on mine?

Never been to Jersey. Got a spare room?

 

[Mdragger88]

Your projects make me want to start flipping the hot tubs that litter the highways in my area I look forward to seeing the next one!

 

[RDspaguy]

Your projects make me want to start flipping the hot tubs that litter the highways in my area I look forward to seeing the next one!

The market is there, have you seen the price of decent new spas these days? it's a question of what it will take to get it going vs what you can expect to get for it. My previous project wound up being not worth fixing after a couple days of work and a fill and heat. Unavailable jet parts necessitated a full replumb, on a low-end tub with acrylic issues. Not worth it. If you can get them with only a few minor problems it's easy money, the trouble is that you never really know until you've got it hot and running. I rebuild pumps, replace heater elements, seal jet flanges, and such to give a good, reliable tub as much as I am able, but I've had part failures in as little as a week after the sale. And once you rebuild and sell a tub, if the buyer knows you rebuilt it yourself, you're married to it. So do a good job if you're asking rebuilt price. Maybe offer a short warranty if your profit margin will comfortably buy a new control system or pump. It gives people confidence in their purchase, and can increase your asking price enough to cover any likely issues. If you have integrity, you'll probably cover it the first month or two anyway, so advertise that fact.

 

[Newdude]

Maybe offer a short warranty if your profit margin will comfortably buy a new control system or pump. It gives people confidence in their purchase, and can increase your asking price enough to cover any likely issues. If you have integrity, you'll probably cover it the first month or two anyway, so advertise that fact.

+1. I've sold at least 150 things on OfferUp, many pricey like my hot tub. For each and every one I pointed out the thousands of dollars of glass on the 4 vehicles sitting in my driveway that I don't want smashed. There'd be even bigger problems if I caught then doing it. Lol. It's just not worth it. So I make each and every one of them agree to a no questions asked return policy of 2 or 3 weeks to help us both rest easy. Even if I eventually lose on something, I've more than covered it.

 

[Jay G]

Looks a lot like mine when I got it. Looks good so far!

 

[RDspaguy]

Coming along. Amazon lied, and one of my parts arrived today (waterfall valve gate), not 8, so I wasn't able to get the pump seals and heater done but I got them prepped and tracked down a damaged light controller wire and got them working.

After removing the wet-end (easy to say) I run the motor and use a wire brush and emery cloth to clean up the motor shaft and threads.

 

[Newdude]

(Fascinating stuffs )

 

[RDspaguy]

A little trick for anyone who cares.

This is how you remove a stubborn impeller.
Alot of guys (I used to be one) will lock the motor shaft (in a number of ways) and grab the impeller in some big channel locks or a strap wrench to unsrew it. This often results in a broken impeller due to squeezing the face or uneven pressure breaking it off.
This is a piece of a wire coat hanger, bent over and twisted a few times, with a hook at each end. Insert it into the output (side port) of the wet-end (with faceplate removed) and hook one of the vanes (blades) of the impeller. If you go the wrong way it wont catch. Turn the impeller slowly and hook the edge of the output (at the threads) and keep pressure as you turn the motor shaft (from the back end or behind the wet-end on some pumps) to unscrew the shaft from the impeller. Doesn't make it easy or anything, nor is it foolproof, but it's the best way to save an impeller on a spa pump.
For slotted shafts I have a (7/16 I think) paddle bit that I ground off the point and edge a bit to make a tool that I then put in my impact drill and grab the paddle with channel locks to break loose the impeller, held by the impeller tool.
This is how I just took apart an 18 year old, rusted up pump assembly without damage.
The impeller shaft had split from the motor shaft rusting inside of it (common) but it can be cut off (carefully) and the impeller re-used, as the impeller shaft is not needed, and many pump impellers do not have one to begin with. I put the impeller on the motor shaft after cleaning up the shaft (without the wet-end and with the seal still on it for a ps-1000 or the metal sleeve still on for a ps-200/ps-201) and run the motor, using a small hacksaw to carefully cut it off as it spins. Be careful, the pieces can go flying so cover your eyes.
During re-assembly I will put some silicone lubricant on the motor shaft to help protect it from further rust, for a while anyway.

 

[RDspaguy]

Are the dwv pvc fittings not an issue

I just realized that the (sweep) 90 in the corner is also a drain fitting. That was original from the factory, as I re-used that piece of undamaged pipe. I wonder if the original Y fitting was also dwv, as I did not dig it out of the foam before cutting it. Have to see if it's still out there or already made it to the curb.

 

[RDspaguy]

Always check your tube before installing a new element. You'll notice the old o-ring has stuck to the tube. If left there the new heater element will likely touch the tube, and it will leak in no time.

Use a wire brush to clean inside the holes where the o-ring will seal.

Put something in (I used a rubber handle 1/4" ratchet) to keep the element from twisting into the side of the tube as you tighten the mounting bolts.

Visually confirm that the element is not touching the tube. It will burn out if it is.

Secure the bolt beneath the copper tab while tightening the nut on the heater terminal. Failure to do so can twist the terminal post leading to premature heater failure.


The one (knock on wood) that I missed, as I couldn't fill it this high before. See the crack? Freeze damage is the ONLY thing that does that.

Next comes ahhsome, then drain, dry, scrub and seal the jet gaskets, and replace the damaged jet. Moving right along.

 

[Galaxie 500]

Thank you for posting all of this, i do my own repairs (so far) and find these visuals and info a lifesaver.

 

[Mdragger88]

That’s ALOT of jets!

 

[RDspaguy]

That’s ALOT of jets!

Yeah, this puppy is loaded. Has 10hp of pumps to push them all too.

 

[RDspaguy]

Thank you for posting all of this, i do my own repairs (so far) and find these visuals and info a lifesaver.

You have a great tech in your neck of the woods. I trained him myself, many years ago.
Did you happen to attend the BBQ bluesfest in Washington last year?

 

[Galaxie 500]

You have a great tech in your neck of the woods. I trained him myself, many years ago.
Did you happen to attend the BBQ bluesfest in Washington last year?

We did not but heard it was a great time, maybe this year if they have it again.
Our local built Aspen spa has been very trouble free for 10+ years now. I swapped in a new heater and main control board a couple years back.... close lighting strike took the board out.
Take care!