Recently installed my first variable speed pump, a Pentair 011553, which is working well on a 3 hours @ 3,000 RPM, 10 hours @ 1,500, and 3 hours @2,200 RPM schedule here in south central Texas. Based on what I have read, I am considering switching to a continuous schedule of 2 hours @ 2,800, 4 hours @2,000 RPM and 18 hours @ 1,200 RPM. Does this sound appropriate. Any and all suggestions, comments and recommendations appreciated. Thanks.
Variable Speed Pump Operation Schedule
- Thread starter DRB78704
- Start date
Hey Dr B and Welcome !!!!
Why the higher speeds ? Many run them without a reason, such as the heater/cleaner requiring a bit more RPMs.
Why the higher speeds ? Many run them without a reason, such as the heater/cleaner requiring a bit more RPMs.
Most articles I have read suggest the higher speeds for a few hours to clean the pool, which is 20' x 60'. Perhaps I have been overly cautious thus far. Thanks for your help.
DRB,
Every speed you run should have a reason...
I run 24/7, mostly at 1200 RPM, because 1200 is what keeps my salt cell working, and it also skims my pool..
I used to have other speeds to "help with skimming" but found that was just not necessary.
I have a speed for when I want my waterfall wall to run..
If I had spa or a heater, I'd have speeds for them.
Tell us what your goal is for running each of your current speeds.
The slower you run your pump (within reason) the less it costs. I have a 10 year old VS pump and it costs me less than $20 bucks a month to run 24/7.. If I had a newer pump, it would only be about $10 a month, as they are much more efficient.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Every speed you run should have a reason...
I run 24/7, mostly at 1200 RPM, because 1200 is what keeps my salt cell working, and it also skims my pool..
I used to have other speeds to "help with skimming" but found that was just not necessary.
I have a speed for when I want my waterfall wall to run..
If I had spa or a heater, I'd have speeds for them.
Tell us what your goal is for running each of your current speeds.
The slower you run your pump (within reason) the less it costs. I have a 10 year old VS pump and it costs me less than $20 bucks a month to run 24/7.. If I had a newer pump, it would only be about $10 a month, as they are much more efficient.
Thanks,
Jim R.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,888
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Higher pump speed gives better skimmer action.
You need to find the pump speed and length of time that keeps the pool surface clean to your satisfaction. That tends to be unique for each pool and takes some experimentation.
You need to find the pump speed and length of time that keeps the pool surface clean to your satisfaction. That tends to be unique for each pool and takes some experimentation.
They are misguided attempts at making the modern VS pumps catchup to what the single speed pumps unneedingly accomplished for decades IMO.
Now the name of the game is low and slow for energy savings. Run as little RPMs as accomplishes your task at hand. I find that timing is way more important than speed. If the pump is off for 16 to 20 hours, that's a long time for anything that fell in the pool to get waterlogged and sink to the bottom and it doesn't matter how high you run tomorrow. Having it trickling along the whole time gave you better odds that the crud found its way to the skimmers. Acorns (etc) are gonna sink like a brick either way. Lol.
Some run 2 to 4 hours of higher speeds just to make themselves feel better, and that's OK too, it's just not needed. Most who tried running just enough to skim full time find that it's all they need. And then ramping the RPMs up for heating, when using water features or purging them twice a day for 15 mins, etc.
Sometimes like during the spring/fall with heavy debris, you can bump the RPM to speed it along, but it's also OK to just sit back and wait it out for a couple days. It'll catch up pretty quick.
DRB,
The size of the pool has almost nothing to do with pump speed..
I suspect you are thinking about what is called "Turnovers".. The idea that you have to turnover x amount of water per day is an old myth and is just not true.. Chemicals are what keeps your pool water sanitized and clear.. The filter's main job is to capture all the junk that falls into your pool and does not sink. By the time your filter starts collecting algae, it it too late... you have already lost the algae war.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Size is mostly irrelevant. If a giant oak tree(s) is dropping pollen over the pool, it's going to be loaded with X amount of crud whether 10k or 40k gallons. Running the pump (filtering) also stops the pool, with diminishing returns over time. You filter more and more already filtered water with each pass.
The bulk of the year (mid season) there is little debris to filter in any sized pool. Residential batherload is inconsequential more often than not, and if you have a bug party you can run higher for a day or two, or wait it out again.
DRB,
Just to be clear.. You should run your pump however you see fit...
We are just giving you our advice.. You are not required to use that advice..
Any advice that we provide is because we believe that is the best approach, but it does not make it the only approach.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Just to be clear.. You should run your pump however you see fit...
We are just giving you our advice.. You are not required to use that advice..
Any advice that we provide is because we believe that is the best approach, but it does not make it the only approach.
Thanks,
Jim R.
+1. I always say that (insert unnecessary option that's moderately inexpensive) is cheaper than going to the Dr to sleep well at night. 
In this case, the $30 extra a month in electricity is *1* copay.
In this case, the $30 extra a month in electricity is *1* copay.
- Jan 7, 2012
- 1,464
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60