Hi! Currently going through the slam process and have been running my robot vac, but it seems like the manual vac would be more efficient; however, last year after the one and only time I used the manual vac my pump will no longer work on low. It starts to turn on but never fully engages. I’m afraid to use the manual vac now because I feel like I did something wrong. I filled the hose with water and plugged directly into the suction hole under the skimmer basket. Pool is above ground. I guess I don’t have a specific question other than did I do something wrong? Anyone ever have one setting stop working? Will the robot vac eventually clear the water so long as I continue slam?
Vacuum ruined my low pump setting?
- Thread starter kpowell916
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,872
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Welcome to TFP! 
I doubt that manually vacuuming caused the pump (low speed) problem. Probably just a coincidence. Can you tell us which make/model pump you have? Age as well? Or you can post some pics of the pump and its motor label.
I doubt that manually vacuuming caused the pump (low speed) problem. Probably just a coincidence. Can you tell us which make/model pump you have? Age as well? Or you can post some pics of the pump and its motor label.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,872
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
@JamesW can you review plz? Does that motor model number provide a Mfr date or only s/n? The pump was purchased last year, but I'm not sure if the motor is older. Trying to ID reason for low speed cut off. Thx.
Attachments
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,872
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Yes. Pool was installed of June 2022 if that matters.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,872
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
At least the dates seem to match up.
Have you made a call to your pool installer yet? Some items are only covered for one year, some items less, but it's worth making a call. Some installers are good about customer service and their reputation and would rather do a quick pump swap to make a customer happy as opposed to telling you that you are on your own.If they won't do anything, then the motor end itself may have a defect that requires more attention. Looking back in Post #1, you mentioned it struggled to start on low. I always start my pump on high. I think they kick-over better that way first, then I switch to low speed. Does yours work if you do it that way?
I don’t think our installer has any love for us. They discovered the ground was too soft where they initially started to dig, so the pool had to be pushed back 10ft. They tried to leave the original hole and when my husband objected they threatened to tear the pool down if we didn’t pay 3x more than originally agreed upon for the install. Words were exchanged. They filled the hole, we paid the original price, and any future contact would probably be for nothing, lol I’ve tried turning the low speed on multiple ways, but can’t be sure I went from high to low. I’ll give that a try.At least the dates seem to match up.
If they won't do anything, then the motor end itself may have a defect that requires more attention. Looking back in Post #1, you mentioned it struggled to start on low. I always start my pump on high. I think they kick-over better that way first, then I switch to low speed. Does yours work if you do it that way?
Am I good to continue to operate the pump only on high or should I replace? Is there a reason to run on low other than energy consumption?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,872
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
It's also harder on the motor itself. I'd be curious to know if it starts good on high then continues to operate fine when you switch it to low. I don't see a "hump" on top of your motor casing that would have a capacitor under it, so you may have one behind the rear of the motor behind the back cover. A capacitor going bad couple explain a struggling low-start scenario. But if your pump starts on high speed fine then shuts down when you switch to low speed, it may something else.
Well, I went out to take a video of switching from high to low and back again. Now the pump won’t turn on at all, high or low. It’s making zero sounds now.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,872
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Rats!
I would consider doing two things at this point:1 - Start adding some liquid chlorine to the pool and manually brush it around. Do this once or even twice a day if needed to avoid an algae bloom.
2 - Let the pump sit for about 30 min to an hour and try again. It may be overheating. If so, there are a couple things to come back to.
At some point you may need to remove that rear cover and see if there is a capacitor back there. Some motors don't have one, but if yours does, it may need to be replaced. A 1-year old pump's capacitor shouldn't go bad so quickly, but things happen with electronics. So that would be my next DIY attempt since a new cap is probably less than $20. While the motor is separated from the wet end (pump pot) is also a great time to inspect the impeller area for anything that may have gotten tangled in there.
If after all of that the motor still fails to operate, well have to consider other options.
Still nothing after an hour. I’ll see if there’s a capacitor. Thanks for all the advice!Rats!
1 - Start adding some liquid chlorine to the pool and manually brush it around. Do this once or even twice a day if needed to avoid an algae bloom.
2 - Let the pump sit for about 30 min to an hour and try again. It may be overheating. If so, there are a couple things to come back to.
At some point you may need to remove that rear cover and see if there is a capacitor back there. Some motors don't have one, but if yours does, it may need to be replaced. A 1-year old pump's capacitor shouldn't go bad so quickly, but things happen with electronics. So that would be my next DIY attempt since a new cap is probably less than $20. While the motor is separated from the wet end (pump pot) is also a great time to inspect the impeller area for anything that may have gotten tangled in there.
If after all of that the motor still fails to operate, well have to consider other options.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,872
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
As a safety reminder - ensure power is OFF when you go to access the rear of the motor. Capacitors function by storing a some voltage. It's often common practice to discharge that electricity with an insulated screwdriver by touching the terminals together with the screwdriver. Lots of YouTube clips on that. So be careful as you work on it.
It works on high again! Still not low, but I’ll take what I can get. I believe I tripped the breaker when I was switching back and forth between speeds.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,872
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
If a breaker tripped, unless the motor got wet, it's a safe bet the motor is getting too hot, either from a bad component, or something interfering with free impeller movement inside. If you aren't ready to pull the motor away from the way end of the pump just yet, with power OFF you might try and reach down into the pump wet area where water leaves the pump to go to the filter. You might be able to get to the impeller with your fingers to see if it moves freely or if there is something obviously tangled up in there.
Okay, I’ll power everything off and try that. The pool was a mess to start, so that is definitely possible.