Unique Situation (possibly)

dspasaro

Member
Jun 16, 2022
9
Worcester County, MA
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair iChlor 30
Hello!

We had a pool installed last year (installation time lapse), and I’m going to close it myself this year. I looked through other posts, but it seems like my pool is slightly different than what’s covered by the boiler plate closing posts.

Specifically, our installer told us that when we close, a) we don’t need to drain the pool past the skimmers because they installed skimmer guards that somehow allows the pool to drain if it gets past to a certain point (not really sure how this works) and b) we don’t need to clear the lines because they used expandable piping that won’t crack (you can see it in the install video).

With that being said, I linked the video of them closing our pool last year, and a picture of the closing supplies they supplied (I still have the stoppers and skimmer floatation devices). At this point, I’m pretty confident I know what to do, but I (and rightfully – my wife) think we should go off more than this video, and therefore are reaching out to you experts.

Here’s what I’ve observed (and the order in which I would complete it).
  1. Do not drain any water
  1. Shut-off pump
  1. Drain filter housing
  1. Disassemble filter housing
  1. Remove filters
  1. Dump antifreeze into pump
  1. Reassemble filter housing (without filters)
  1. Do nothing with skimmer or drain valves (I.e., remain open)
  1. Install return stoppers
  1. Remove skimmer baskets and install skimmer guards
  1. Dump shock, two bottles of winter stain out, and copper winterizer into the deep end (off camera)
  1. Turn off main power to pump
So I humbly ask you experts, am I generally on track with the steps above? Seems straightforward to me. Also, how does everyone feel about this process? The pool came out pretty clean at the beginning of the season, and they are a pretty successful company locally, so I imagine that just because the process is unique doesn’t mean it’s wrong. I guess the one thing I am apprehensive about is the shock, since no thread I've read here advises for it (SLAM fam forever).

Anyways, reassurance or words of wisdom are much appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Hello!

We had a pool installed last year (installation time lapse), and I’m going to close it myself this year. I looked through other posts, but it seems like my pool is slightly different than what’s covered by the boiler plate closing posts.

Specifically, our installer told us that when we close, a) we don’t need to drain the pool past the skimmers because they installed skimmer guards that somehow allows the pool to drain if it gets past to a certain point (not really sure how this works) and b) we don’t need to clear the lines because they used expandable piping that won’t crack (you can see it in the install video).

With that being said, I linked the video of them closing our pool last year, and a picture of the closing supplies they supplied (I still have the stoppers and skimmer floatation devices). At this point, I’m pretty confident I know what to do, but I (and rightfully – my wife) think we should go off more than this video, and therefore are reaching out to you experts.

Here’s what I’ve observed (and the order in which I would complete it).
  1. Do not drain any water
  2. Shut-off pump
  3. Drain filter housing
  4. Disassemble filter housing
  5. Remove filters
  6. Dump antifreeze into pump
  7. Reassemble filter housing (without filters)
  8. Do nothing with skimmer or drain valves (I.e., remain open)
  9. Install return stoppers
  10. Remove skimmer baskets and install skimmer guards
  11. Dump shock, two bottles of winter stain out, and copper winterizer into the deep end (off camera)
  12. Turn off main power to pump
So I humbly ask you experts, am I generally on track with the steps above? Seems straightforward to me. Also, how does everyone feel about this process? The pool came out pretty clean at the beginning of the season, and they are a pretty successful company locally, so I imagine that just because the process is unique doesn’t mean it’s wrong. I guess the one thing I am apprehensive about is the shock, since no thread I've read here advises for it (SLAM fam forever).

Anyways, reassurance or words of wisdom are much appreciated.

Thanks!
Welcome!

I wouldn’t use anything in that closing kit except for the skimmer gizmos. If the “skimmer guard” referenced is the green tubes in your photo, those are called “gizmos” and are installed in the skimmer drain once the pump is winterized so that water that freezes in the skimmer doesn’t expand and crack the housing. But they don’t work if the lines are full of water so I have no clue what process they came up with and that scares me (for you). I guess I need to watch the video. Hang tight for a bit….
 
I watched the video above. Here’s what they did.
1. Drained the filter housing and removed filter
2. Added 1 gallon of antifreeze? to the pump basket and closed it back up
3. Installed skimmer gizmos on the skimmers

If you get really big freezes where you are located (maybe near the ocean doesn’t get too bad) then I don’t know how you got through winter without breaking something.

The gizmos should protect the skimmers if the rubber oring seals well and they don’t have water inside them. Some gizmos are sealed and some are not. My new versions are but the versions that came with the house weren’t. So check them and make sure.

The pipes above ground look like normal PCV so if those weren’t drained they can freeze and crack.

Assuming the pipes underground are just the flex PCV pipes (which aren’t recommended for other reasons), I suppose it’s possible they could expand to account for frozen but I’d be very suspicious of it. I’d blow them out anyway because they are the most expensive thing to dig up and repair if they break and can do the most damage if they leak.
 
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I am regionally local to you and we fully blow the pipes. It's a 2 min process when done correctly and there is no reason to risk freeze damage. A cyclone is hands down the best tool for the job. Here is two other options.

 
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Another observation: flex pipe or not, a freeze can burst the pipes due to extreme pressure rise from ice plugging and then ice forming within a plugged area, even if the pipe can handle the expansion in the pipe itself as ice forms. FWIW, I would not follow the advice they gave. It may be much easier to do it that way, but following the advice of the folks here will provide a more certain good outcome, and it doesn’t seem all that difficult.
 
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