Underground suction side water leak

[DIYconvert]

Looking for suggestions on the easiest fix to my problem. I have a set of leaks in the underground fittings where three, very close, parallel lines (main drain + 2 skimmers) all have a 45-degree reducer elbow from 2" to 1.5". The leaks are on the 1.5 inch side. Because the pipes are so close together and there is rock right under the pipes it would be very difficult to cut out the pipe and replace the bad fittings. I had this same problem about 5 years ago. Pool repair contractor wanted to replumb the entire pump station for many $$$ to fix the problem. He finally admitted that putting some epoxy around the offending leaking joints may temporarily solve the problem and it did (see gray epoxy at the joints in the picture). This worked for 5 years but now all three have started leaking again and I'm losing about an inch of water per day. I'd like to try the same approach again but I'm not sure how since it's already been done once. I did give myself some extra clearance under the elbows and under about 2 inches of the 2" pipe by drilling large holes into the rock underneath and then chiseled out as much rock as I could (that was quite a job). The area under the 1.5 in pipe doesn't any rock so I was able to dig under it and get some clearance. Next, I'll clean all the dirt off the elbow joints and make sure everything is as clean and dry as possible. My thoughts are:
1. I could apply PVC primer then PVC cement with the pump running and hope the cement will be sucked into the leaks. (This is the easiest for me because I have everything I need). Maybe I shouldn't apply primer first and just use the cement?
2. I could apply some marine epoxy instead of just using PVC cement since this seems to be recommended option (I don't have any on hand and would have to order it).
3. Do I need to try and file/sand off the existing epoxy first?
4. If I do attempt to cut out the fittings the easiest replacement would be to use some flexible tubing but I know that is more prone to future leaks and I'm not sure if it's OK to use underground. If it were a straight joint it would be much easier. Having the leaks at the 45-degree bend plus needing a reducer plus needing a coupler on the 2" pipes which are so close together with rock underneath makes this job very difficult.

 

[Texas Splash]

I would try the "sucking-in" method, but I would try some silicone sealant first. It's thicker and might hold-up better in a tiny gap. Should be easier to apply and clean-up as well.

 

[DIYconvert]

I would try the "sucking-in" method, but I would try some silicone sealant first. It's thicker and might hold-up better in a tiny gap. Should be easier to apply and clean-up as well.

Thanks for the verification. I'm going to try the sucking-in method first; however, I would worry about the silicone cracking due to the vibrations in the line. As an RV'er, I've learned silicone is a bad sealant for RV windows because, once it dries, it doesn't have much elasticity and, thus, it eventually cracks due to the road vibrations.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I have to say, I tried coming up with ideas but they are all hacks at best. I have to agree with the pool guy - that entire equipment pad needs to be redone. Just looking at the above ground pipes with all the cheap PVC balls valves and random tee’s that are all plugged off gives me the heebie-jeebies. It’s a mess. And the fact that you have underground pipes laid directly on to stone is a bad idea. It just all needs to be re-worked and you definitely want to avoid flexible PVC as that will not last.

Sorry, but that plumbing is quite the mess …

 

[DIYconvert]

The tees with the plugs were needed when I had a liquidator installed. I've since installed a SWG so they are all capped now. They don't impede anything. I agree it look like a Frankenstein setup, that's what happens after 30 years of maintenance (I inherited it about 15 years ago. However, it all works pretty well except for how the original installers laid that pipe so close together, angled it at the last few feet and put it over rock. I plan to replace the ball valves with Jandy valves.