Ugh… Hayward Aquarite issues

[aceniza]

Hey all, 2 weird issues.

I just cleaned out my hayward t-15 and tried to recalibrate it, switching the aquarite from off to auto, diagnostic until it shows the negative number. The number reads 0 and won’t start at -4000 like it normally does. The low salt and inspect cell lights are solid. The t-15 is less than a year old.

In both the app and the touch panel, it’s showing my lights as “powering down” on the web it shows as “on” and allows me to turn it off, but nothing actually happens. The lights are not on

Can anyone shed some insight on what my issues might be? Seems out of the 5 years we’ve had this pool, only 2 have been under control. It’s been an absolute headache ever since the TX winter freeze in 2021.

 

[ajw22]

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all diagnostic readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

There is nothing to "calibrate" in the Aquarite. Read Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

 

[aceniza]

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all diagnostic readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

There is nothing to "calibrate" in the Aquarite. Read Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

I’ll get those in a moment.

I’ve always recalibrated the t-cell in the aquarite.

 

[aceniza]

0
72
32.5
0.00
100p
-0
Al-0
R1.59
T-15

0
72
32.4
0.00
100p
-0
Al-0
r-1.59
t-15

 

[ajw22]

I’ve always recalibrated the t-cell in the aquarite.

All that does is set the "Average Salt" setting to whatever the "Instant Salt" setting is. It calibrates nothing.

Does your Aquarite power off when your pool pump is off?

Wrong average salt setting is usually caused by the Aquarite being power on while the pump is off and the flow switch stuck closed so the system is running with no flow giving bad average salt readings.

 

[ajw22]

Examine both sides of the board for burnt components or solder joints...

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

LOW SALT Message & 0 Salinity, 0 Amps​

The salt cell does not have the DC voltage needed to function. The symptoms correlate to either of the following;

• Bad In-Rush Current Limiter (RZ3)
• K1 or K2 Bad solder (most likely suspect)
• Logic Controller failure (worse case scenario)

A replacement board should fix this issue. If you're technically inclined, you might save the existing board by inspecting the solder or by replacing the relay if determined faulty.

 

[aceniza]

All that does is set the "Average Salt" setting to whatever the "Instant Salt" setting is. It calibrates nothing.

Does your Aquarite power off when your pool pump is off?

Wrong average salt setting is usually caused by the Aquarite being power on while the pump is off and the flow switch stuck closed so the system is running with no flow giving bad average salt readings.

That’s strange, I’ve seen the instant salt be way off. Before cleaning the cell it was reading 1500 and my Taylor test read 3200.

It does indeed stay on when the pump is off. Is there a way to have it power off?

Examine both sides of the board for burnt components or solder joints...

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

LOW SALT Message & 0 Salinity, 0 Amps​

The salt cell does not have the DC voltage needed to function. The symptoms correlate to either of the following;

• Bad In-Rush Current Limiter (RZ3)
• K1 or K2 Bad solder (most likely suspect)
• Logic Controller failure (worse case scenario)

A replacement board should fix this issue. If you're technically inclined, you might save the existing board by inspecting the solder or by replacing the relay if determined faulty.

Sounds like fun
Hopefully I’m able to find an issue and repair it.

 

[ajw22]

That’s strange, I’ve seen the instant salt be way off. Before cleaning the cell it was reading 1500 and my Taylor test read 3200.

That is a different issue in the way the Aquarite calculates the salinity.

It does indeed stay on when the pump is off. Is there a way to have it power off?

You have a single speed pump?

What controls the pump?

Wire the SWG power to the same control as the pump.

You should also check and probably replace your flow switch.

Your system always being powered probably contributed to your current board problem.

Sounds like fun
Hopefully I’m able to find an issue and repair it.

Happy hunting!

 

[Mdragger88]

This may be a separate issue but…
How often are you having to clean your cell?
Cleaning it with acid reduces its life.
Its Best to manage csi to prevent the cell from needing to be cleaned in the first place.

 

[aceniza]

That is a different issue in the way the Aquarite calculates the salinity.



You have a single speed pump?

What controls the pump?

Wire the SWG power to the same control as the pump.

You should also check and probably replace your flow switch.

Your system always being powered probably contributed to your current board problem.



Happy hunting!

It’s a variable pump controlled by a hayward g1-019318 and non-color touchscreen control panel.

do you think an upgraded aquarite is worthwhile, with more monitors and valve controls? I do have a 3rd valve for a slide (never got around to putting in a slide).

Or just repair what I’ve got and of course rewire it

 

[ajw22]

It’s a variable pump controlled by a hayward g1-019318 and non-color touchscreen control panel.

Why isn't your Aquarite cell plugged into and controlled by the OmniLogic system?

do you think an upgraded aquarite is worthwhile, with more monitors and valve controls? I do have a 3rd valve for a slide (never got around to putting in a slide).

Or just repair what I’ve got and of course rewire it

Replace your old OmniLogic system and Aquarite control panel with an OmniPL system with integrated SWG controls...

Hayward OmniPL - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[JamesW]

The voltage is fine.

Can you show the system as it starts and tries to come on?

Take the cell in to be tested.

Dealer Locator

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hayward.com

 

[JamesW]

Does it say "flow" or "No Flow"?

 

[JamesW]

Which lights are on and which lights are off?

Is the "Remotely Controlled" light On or OFF?