Two-Year-Old Pool Major Discoloration and Bleaching

As far as I can tell, the heat exchanger is leaking.

If the combustion chamber tub is filling with water, the heater will usually stop working.

You can screw some fittings into the heater after you remove the black fittings and do a pressure test to see if the heater holds pressure or look into the combustion chamber to see what it looks like.

You can replace the heat exchanger if you want to go that way, but you are taking the risk that everything else is in good working order.

Only you can decide what you prefer to do.

I am just trying to help you make an informed decision.

If you are going to do the work yourself, that's one thing, but in my opinion, a service person would be foolish to agree to replace the heat exchanger.
 
As a simple test, you can unscrew the two black fittings and then plug the lower hole and then make a PVC pipe to put in the top hole and then fill the pipe with water to see if the water holds or drains.

This is all you should need:

2” Threaded plug PVC NPT

2” MTA NPT

2” street 90 (spigot x slip) sch 40 or regular 90.

2” PVC pipe sch 40

Teflon tape.

Pipe sealant.

Use pipe sealant on the fittings and push them together.

You should not need glue as the fittings will not be under pressure and you can easily take them back apart.

Sometimes the leak only happens under pressure, this is not definitive if it does not go down.

If it goes down, then the leak is big and you will probably be able to hear it by listening to the drum (tub).

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Sorry- solved that. The dang auto valve by the feeder was partially off. Ok, here is the cooper. How does it look?
I don't know anything about heaters, but @JamesW did you see this? Could this have been where the water was coming from and not the bolts, and then maybe the heater is still good? Just trying to make sure somethign wasn't overlooked.
 
Your picture:
IMG_3704.jpg

PLEASE... take those bottles that say Muriatic Acid AWAY from those other chemicals. The Acid has vented caps, and the mixture of those gases along with chlorine in any form is a dangerous combination. Store the Muriatic Acid by itself away from tools and metals also, as it can cause rusting to them.
You should get rid of the NoMore Problems as that is not something you want to ever add to a chlorine pool. The NoPhos is a weak version of the chemical, usually unnecessary but either way not the brand we'd ever recommend. The Alkalinity Up is nothing more than overpriced Baking Soda. You may never need it, but it won't go bad.

Maddie :flower:
 
Note that you have two different powered chemicals called Chlor Brite and Power Powder.

DO NOT MIX THESE TOGETHER!

Never mix different chemicals together even if they look similar.

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Thank you , everyone, for the replies. We've thrown away all the leftover chemicals and supples from prior owners. The pool will be acid washed Monday. Excited to start over with a clean pool and fresh water.

Question: We need a controller that is not the Pentair Screen Logic. Can I just order the below and program it? I figure since the system is already set up to use the App I just need the controller? Any other needed parts? Any online stores you recommend?

 

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An acid wash will make the surface very rough.

I would try sulfamic acid (Jack's #2) first to see if that works and then acid wash if necessary.

You can also have the surface sanded with diamond grit sandpaper.

In any case take careful notice of the texture now and after the treatment to see if there is any difference.
 
Plaster is made of cement and aggregate.

An acid wash will dissolve the cement and expose the aggregate.

If the aggregate is quartz sand, the surface will be like sandpaper.

If the aggregate is pebble, the surface will be like exposed aggregate concrete.

There are different types of pebble from small and smooth to big and rough.

Some people find it objectionable and some people are not as bothered by it.

I would avoid an acid wash if possible especially if the surface is now smooth.

I would try sulfamic acid first and then a no drain acid wash before doing an drain and acid wash.

Even if the sulfamic acid only gets 50% of the stains, it will reduce the amount of acid required for the acid wash.

Don't allow the sulfamic acid to circulate through the system.

Metal items in the water, like lights, rails and light niches can possibly be damaged by sulfamic acid or a zero alkalinity treatment (no drain acid wash), so rails should be removed and lights can be pulled out and put on the deck during treatment, but niches can't be moved.
 
LOL. Typo. We *want* to buy the screen logic. Any other equipment needed or will it pair easily per the instructions?

That is a hard-wired, wall-mounted indoor controller. It has nothing to do with ScreenLogic. You would need to run cable through your wall to your EasyTouch in order to use that.

I think people following this thread are unsure of what equipment you actually have and, therefore, what else you need. It would help if you would fill in your signature with a list of all the equipment you have.
 

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