Trudging through a new Intex 18'x52" setup

oblvnnwtnjhn

Member
Jun 28, 2023
5
North Alabama
We started in early June when temps in North Alabama were unseasonably cool, used a 3" Clorox 6 in 1 in a floater, did well for a few weeks, then the heat came. Algae bloom.
I decided since the QS500 salwater was on sale via Amazon to purchase. I think I made the rookie mistake of not vacuuming the algae before BOOST, assuming once chlorine level was ideal it would kill algae?
I previously had vacuumed once and scrubbed the walls with a soft brush before moving to saltwater.

I followed the Intex instructions for the nearly 7K gallon pool, 4 and 3/4 sacks of 40lbs salt for as close to 175lbs without precisely measuring out. Ran BOOST for 24hrs. some improvement in water clarity, algae was still there, so I vacuumed the pool again, this time floors, walls, removed all algae. Backwash and rinsed sandfilter. Still cloudy, but Intex says that can remain for 3-6 days after boost, I am on day 4.

I set up the filter and QS500 to run 4hrs per Intex with regard to the gallon capacity, I was out of town Monday night, checked today, still cloudy, seeing signs of algae starting to form. The Taylor K-1001 still indicates free chlorine is low, and so do the Clorox and Intex provided sticks, reading here and elsewhere, I see they're not accurate? Hence me buying the Taylor kit for accuracy and using the sticks to triple check, they seems to be in line thus far. These levels have remained the same since Sat, pre and post BOOST, and normal 4hr daily operation.

So I am at a loss how to proceed at this point to clear up the water and stop the algae. As you can see, the pH level per Taylor looks ideal, but not so according to the sticks, which can be inaccurate, correct? But the free chlorine measuremnts seems to be in line with Taylor and the sticks. Pool photo looks clearer than it does in person, has a aqua green tint.
 

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Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool
 
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Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool
Thanks for the response. So I SLAM to get to accurate base levels, and then use my QS500 to maintain the levels once established? You recommend kit K2006C and not the K2006 SALT?
 
A salt test would be a good idea. More value from the test kits at TFTestkits.

Once you kill and clean out the algae, you then use your SWCG to maintain the chlorine level.
 
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A salt test would be a good idea. More value from the test kits at TFTestkits.

Once you kill and clean out the algae, you then use your SWCG to maintain the chlorine level.
Or I can do the K2006C (I have an Amazon credit) and use the Taylor K-1001 I have now for salt portion? I will go with the TFTestkits next go around as they're about $50 less expensive.
 
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