Trouble with new cartridge filter

Fungi

Well-known member
May 5, 2015
64
Central Illinois
I recently replaced my ten year old original sand filter with a Doheny's 150 sq ft cartridge filter. My pools is in a screened room and really small, 2300 gallons, so as infrequent as they were, the backwash process took a lot of water. I did some research here and purchased a unit that was overkill for my pool, meaning there would be a surplus of water flow, and the filter would not need to be cleaned often. The install went ok, but the cartridge filter leaked. After receiving a new unit everything appeared to be going ok. I turn the pump on in the morning, I loosened the air escape bolt, and after the air turned to water close it.

First issue. One day I loosened the nut too much and the nut came blasting out. I was able to find it, but not the washer. I found a different washer that fit, but because it was round and not flat it would not seal. I decided it was dangerous to have to loosen the plastic bold, so I installed a valve instead. This resolved the first issue.

Second issue. I was curious, and at the end of use for the day I cracked the valve open before shutting the pump off. There was a lot of air. A lot... How is air getting inside the filter, and at what point is it dangerous? I already rebuilt the skimmer, return valve. I still don't trust the self greasing knob on it. But it's not supposed to leak. argh...

Third issue. This may be my fault. In an effort avoid two 90 degree elbows from the pump to the filter I elevated the filter using a couple concrete blocks. The filter is designed to accept two O-rings on the main housing. They include only one in the product. It still leaked from the main housing, so I snached the O-ring from the defective first filter and installed it too. The result was two washers and no more leaking. The pressure is 14psi. The pressure was 20psi on the sand filter arrangement. Why does the filter leak with only one washer. Did they design it with the understanding that there would be three 90 degree elbows from the pump to the filter?

The pump is not staying primed. I also think I have a very slow leak in the pool... somewhere... smdh
 

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Air gets into a filter by being pumped in along with the water. That indicates a suction leak at the pump. It is not an issue with the filter. First, be sure to lightly lube the O ring on the pump lid. Also, the O rings in the Jandy valve ahead of the pump, 2-stem and 1 lid, need to be lubed. Be sure the pump union on the inlet is tight.
Raising the filter that small amount is fine.
If you are going to continue to use that valve arrangement for an air relief, it would be best to get rid of the galvanized and install brass fittings. If those fittings are 1/4" MPT, get a brass radiator drain from an auto-parts store. It is what was used on virtually all filters before manufacturers started making their own assemblies.
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The original relief plug is available from Doheny's.
 
Air gets into a filter by being pumped in along with the water. That indicates a suction leak at the pump. It is not an issue with the filter. First, be sure to lightly lube the O ring on the pump lid. Also, the O rings in the Jandy valve ahead of the pump, 2-stem and 1 lid, need to be lubed. Be sure the pump union on the inlet is tight.
I looked and yes there were air bubbles under the lid, and I noticed the knob on the jandy valve was loose. I tightened it up and the bubbles appear to have stopped. The knob will not tighten down though. I just replaced all the guts. Can the knob be removed and the opening sealed somehow?

Raising the filter that small amount is fine.
If you are going to continue to use that valve arrangement for an air relief, it would be best to get rid of the galvanized and install brass fittings. If those fittings are 1/4" MPT, get a brass radiator drain from an auto-parts store. It is what was used on virtually all filters before manufacturers started making their own assemblies.
1

The original relief plug is available from Doheny's.
 

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I looked and yes there were air bubbles under the lid, and I noticed the knob on the jandy valve was loose. I tightened it up and the bubbles appear to have stopped. The knob will not tighten down though. I just replaced all the guts. Can the knob be removed and the opening sealed somehow?
Knob? Are you talking about the grease fitting? That port in the side of the valve body is 1/4" FPT and a 1/4" plastic (nylon?) pipe plug can be installed. The ones Jandy makes can be found at most pool stores, but Home Depot ones work just as well.
Remove the cap then the fitting. If you want, just fill the hole with silicone sealant, epoxy or, my preference, PlastAid.
PlastAid is permanent. Be sure whatever you use does not intrude into the body and interfere with the diverter.
 
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