My water is currently clear and levels all in check. However I believe I am battling mustard algae which slowly keeps coming back. I’m planning on cleaning everything and mustard SLAM etc. My filter cartridge is also due for replacement. Should I do the treatment and change the filter after most of the dead algae is off the surface or should I change the cartridge before I shock? Or maybe somewhere in between?
Treating for mustard algae - when to change filter?
- Thread starter ryang6
- Start date
Hey RG and belated Welcome !!!!
Cartridges can get 10 years when well maintained. What's wrong with yours ?
Unless they're damaged, I'd clean them as the FC drifts down after the MA slam.
Cartridges can get 10 years when well maintained. What's wrong with yours ?
Unless they're damaged, I'd clean them as the FC drifts down after the MA slam.
Ok great. 10 years! Really? How?
This cartridge was installed by previous owner. I think it’s a PA version instead of the Hayward. I’m my experience filters work best when they aren’t knock offs. Do you agree?This one also doesn’t have the pleat holders wrapped around them which I assume is helpful to the filtering process. I don’t know how old it is and with my regular brushing it keeps needing cleaning to keep the pressure down.
Another question - for a variable speed pump, what speed is recommended to check pressure?
This cartridge was installed by previous owner. I think it’s a PA version instead of the Hayward. I’m my experience filters work best when they aren’t knock offs. Do you agree?This one also doesn’t have the pleat holders wrapped around them which I assume is helpful to the filtering process. I don’t know how old it is and with my regular brushing it keeps needing cleaning to keep the pressure down.
Another question - for a variable speed pump, what speed is recommended to check pressure?
By not fouling them up with flocculants and such. If you maintain TFP protocol with chemistry and hosing/cleaning at 25% psi rise, they'll last year's and years. Post up pics next time you have them out.
It's been long rumored that the big brands don't make their own. One member even purchased a Pentair during the shortages that came with Pleatcos installed from the factory. (Who they've since bought). We don't have any particular brands that don't hold up, so they're probably fine.
The bands help keep the pleats separated, but not all brands have them. Does it look like they're missing, or were never there in the first place?
I bump mine to full throttle for a baseline PSI check. My normal low RPM operating PSI is 4 so it's hard to tell its a 4.75 or 5. It's much easier to spot 18.5 to 22.
Ok I’ll take a picture when I pull it out. Doesn’t look like this cartridge ever had pleat holders. Typical psi increase to clean is a rise of 10 psi…are you saying 25 psi? I feel like my flow would be very slow at that point.
The pool industry has many blanket reccomenations and this is another garbage one. +10 psi at 4, is far more flow restriction than 10 psi at 20. And it's still likely way too much rise at 20.
We start with 25% (percent) of the baseline PSI, and adjust if needed. That way, it's relevant to your operating PSI, not just +10 for everyone.
Then they're probably fine if they were designed that way. Will wait for pics when the time comes.
The pleats are starting to not hold their form towards the top, but they're still separated and going strong.
Clean them up good and let em ride.
I like the as seen on TV turbo jet available at HD / Target / walmart. . On Amazon it's the hydro jet. It gives the regular hose some oomph but not enough to cause damage. The thin fan spray gets between the pleats great when sprayed vertically.
Clean them up good and let em ride.
I like the as seen on TV turbo jet available at HD / Target / walmart. . On Amazon it's the hydro jet. It gives the regular hose some oomph but not enough to cause damage. The thin fan spray gets between the pleats great when sprayed vertically.