We have a gunite pool with a saltwater generator. The TFP and pool calculator app says our ideal TA should be 60-80. However, all Google searches and our local pool store says the ideal should be 80-120. Which is correct? The pool store is telling me to add Alkalinity up, however. it is testing at 68-70 which is great according to TFP. Help please - thank you!
Total Alkalinity (TA)
- Thread starter CranPool
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,841
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
TFP. The pool store and their "generic" recommendations do not take into account all facets of your pool, equipment, etc. They make assumptions which is why those levels are so generic across the board. TFP takes into account MANY variables, and those are also included in the PoolMath APP.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,841
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Also take note how the pool store tried to sell you Alk UP which is nothing more than over-priced baking soda. I'm sure you can see the difference in cost for yourself. Best to stay out of the pool store. Test your own water with a "proper" test kit (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C) and use the TFP recommended products as needed. Easy stuff.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,841
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Whenever is doubt, remember the Pool Care Basics page is your friend. It's your one-stop-shop for all things related to pool care.
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,576
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
TFP uses a different methodology from traditional pool care. TA is one of the big differences.
Traditional pool care numbers are based on using acidic trichlor pucks to chlorinate the pool. You have to have a higher TA then, to counteract the acid those pucks are constantly adding.
SWCG / liquid chlorine are fairly pH neutral, but with the natural off-gassing of a pool, it will trend upward in pH instead of down. With the higher TA and no acid from pucks to counteract it, your pH would be constantly rising and you'd be adding acid manually (through muriatic acid) to counteract that rise. That would lower your TA, and you'd be adding more "alkalinity up" (which is also known as baking soda if you want to save a ton of money on chemicals) to raise your TA, and repeat forever.
That's why TFP has a lower TA recommendation.
Do you have a kit to do the testing yourself? We've found that pool stores are...spotty at best with their tests. You never know how well their people are trained, how well their equipment is calibrated, etc. Your own dropper-style test from a Taylor K2006c or TF-100 is a better bet to ensure your levels are what they really are.
Traditional pool care numbers are based on using acidic trichlor pucks to chlorinate the pool. You have to have a higher TA then, to counteract the acid those pucks are constantly adding.
SWCG / liquid chlorine are fairly pH neutral, but with the natural off-gassing of a pool, it will trend upward in pH instead of down. With the higher TA and no acid from pucks to counteract it, your pH would be constantly rising and you'd be adding acid manually (through muriatic acid) to counteract that rise. That would lower your TA, and you'd be adding more "alkalinity up" (which is also known as baking soda if you want to save a ton of money on chemicals) to raise your TA, and repeat forever.
That's why TFP has a lower TA recommendation.
Do you have a kit to do the testing yourself? We've found that pool stores are...spotty at best with their tests. You never know how well their people are trained, how well their equipment is calibrated, etc. Your own dropper-style test from a Taylor K2006c or TF-100 is a better bet to ensure your levels are what they really are.
Yes I have the kit and have been using it. Because we are new to this we don't totally trust ourselves so sometimes we take a water sample to the pool store but this popped up today and was confusing. Thank you! I will just go with TFP and the calculator and trust it. I just find it difficult to decipher the exact yellow and red for pH and chlorine - they are pretty close to one another - I guess over time it will be more obvious to me. We're having a high pH often and always high chlorine. I didn't know Alkalinity Up is essentially baking soda - ugh - thanks! Hopefully I can return it - especially since I don't acutally need it.TFP uses a different methodology from traditional pool care. TA is one of the big differences.
Traditional pool care numbers are based on using acidic trichlor pucks to chlorinate the pool. You have to have a higher TA then, to counteract the acid those pucks are constantly adding.
SWCG / liquid chlorine are fairly pH neutral, but with the natural off-gassing of a pool, it will trend upward in pH instead of down. With the higher TA and no acid from pucks to counteract it, your pH would be constantly rising and you'd be adding acid manually (through muriatic acid) to counteract that rise. That would lower your TA, and you'd be adding more "alkalinity up" (which is also known as baking soda if you want to save a ton of money on chemicals) to raise your TA, and repeat forever.
That's why TFP has a lower TA recommendation.
Do you have a kit to do the testing yourself? We've found that pool stores are...spotty at best with their tests. You never know how well their people are trained, how well their equipment is calibrated, etc. Your own dropper-style test from a Taylor K2006c or TF-100 is a better bet to ensure your levels are what they really are.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,747
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Use the fas/dpd test for chlorine as it measures fc & cc separately up to 50ppm with a definitive color change.
The yellow oto test only measures total chlorine (fc&cc combined) & only goes to 5ppm & not very accurately. It’s more of a “do I have any chlorine or not?” Kinda test. Not for basing adjustments on.
It is included because of the comparator block.
For the ph test use a white background (paper/paper plate).
Ph in the 7’s is A ok
ok great! thank you so much!Use the fas/dpd test for chlorine as it measures fc & cc separately up to 50ppm with a definitive color change.
The yellow oto test only measures total chlorine (fc&cc combined) & only goes to 5ppm & not very accurately. It’s more of a “do I have any chlorine or not?” Kinda test. Not for basing adjustments on.
It is included because of the comparator block.
For the ph test use a white background (paper/paper plate).
Ph in the 7’s is A ok