To skim or not to skim, that is the question!

[proavia]

It may be this weir door

Skimmer Weir, 8-1/2 x 5-1/8", Fits Pentair Sta-Rite Swimquip U-3, White - 08650-0022 - INYOPools.com

08650-0022 - WEIR, SKIMMER (08650-0022)

www.inyopools.com

You can always call InyoPools and ask. They have been quite helpful with other members.
They may need to see some pics.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Doc,

To use the original weir door the pins, or attachments for the door, still have to be there. I can't tell from the pics if they are there or not. If they are, it makes the most the sense to use the original weir. If the attachments are gone, which happens a lot, then the original weir will not work and you will have to use a door with spring loaded pins.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[DocBob]

@Jimrahbe
I think you’re right, I think the original mounting points are missing. Do those spring-loaded units need something to mount to? Are they just more of a pressure fit?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Doc,

The spring loaded pins are the only thing holding it in place.

Jim R.

 

[proavia]

In your last pic, see the screw?
Remove that screw (sometimes there can be one on each side) and then carefully attempt to slide the plate upward.

If you find the exact replacement (not the spring loaded pins), it should come with the attachment plate and new screws.

There may be a part number on the plate that will help you get the correct replacement.
Of course, the spring loaded option will also work.

 

[mknauss]

Did you see Post #18? The link shows the two types of weir doors for your skimmer. One is if you can install the original, or a spring pin type.

 

[DocBob]

@Jimrahbe @proavia does the IFCS valve looks like it’s missing parts? Not sure why it wouldn’t function? There’s no way to shut it off???

And thanks for the tips on the Weir door… I broke the mounting plate pulling it out, but it looks like the replacement comes with that anyway. I’ll get that replaced this week.

@mknauss I did see that, thank you. That’s my next project!

 

[proavia]

That's a 5 port Gould valve.
Be extra careful with the large O-ring. Clean it and lube with pool lube before reassembly.

YouTube video on Gould valve.

Again, probably not worth buying parts to fix it - but you can play around with the water valve internals to see if you can get it functioning. At least you can clean out the water valve and see if the internal parts are functional.

Note that the brass valves would have to be closed so enough return water flows thru the water valve and to the popups. And since those brass valves are difficult to turn, now may not be the time to get the infloor fully functional.

 

[DocBob]

@proavia Ah, "the brass valves would have to be closed so enough return water flows thru the water valve"... That makes sense. Okay, I'll pursue that at a later date. No touchy right now.

Thanks, everyone for your help. I've always been a DIYer but the pool thing is all new to me.

Some other quick questions came to mind...
- The hole in the skimmer closest to the pool... would that go to the floor drain? There is very little suction in the floor drain. A leaf will barely move towards it when I sweep one by... and if it's moving even a little too fast it just goes right by. Is this normal? Or is my line clogged?
- Do you recommend those "socks" in the skimmer basket? or just let the sand filter catch the small stuff?
- Can I purchase just a cap for the one pop-up heads? One is broken (see pic) and my nit-picky side wants it to at least look like the rest of them.

 

[proavia]

We really aren't sure if the other hole goes to the main drain - at least not yet.
With the pump off - you could stategically place a few leaves or other degris by the main drain, stick a hose in the hole (seal around perimeter with a hand towel or similar) and turn the water on. If the leaves move or you notice water coming out of the main drain, that hole is plumbed to the main drain. If that doesn't happen, the main drain is likely plumbed back to the equipment pad - and is buried and capped.

Many pools either don't have or have non-functioning main drains. It isn't a requirement to have a main drain. You can remove larger debris with a leaf rake and smaller debris/dirt with a vacuum or pool cleaner.

I don't believe there are any caps or lids to cover the broken popup. I supposed you could fashion one out of plastic and attach it to the broken popup.

If you ever resurface the pool, you can abondon the popups, plug the holes in the pool and refinish over the top. You would also need to abandon the water valve at the pad and cap that off too.

 

[DocBob]

@proavia
Well, the front hole of the skimmer is definitely plumbed to the main floor drain... I just blew a cloud of nastiness into my pool!

 

[proavia]

- but as least you know and it's probably cleared out now.
Can you determine the manufacturer of the skimmer? There may be some info on the underside of the skimmer lid.

And since the main drain is plumbed to the skimmer and the reast of the infloor is 'questionable', it's probably not worth the cost, time or frustration to fix the IFCS.

In pools without an IFCS and having the main drain plumbed to the slimmer, there is usually a diverter valve. They are usually specific to the skimmer. You don't necessarily need one though. Here's some further info on the diverter....

Pool Skimmer Diverter

Quick question...Do I need to use the diverter valve in my skimmers if I don't have a main drain? Fiberglass pool with 2 skimmers and 3 returns. Thank you in advance.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[DocBob]

It appears to be a Swimquip Model U-3 (Pentair?) 8650... And wouldn't the fact that I have a functional floor drain (if I do get a diverter plate) be all the more reason to get the IFCS system working? Isn't that where it moves the debris? The only reason I'd like to get it working is to help keep the steps clean. And unless it's a cheap fix, I probably won't bother anyway.

So... overall plan for now (until I have the $ to invest in a robot vac):
1 or 2 days a week, run the suction side vac.
Otherwise, run the skimmer (I ordered the replacement weir door).
I shouldn't need to divert to the floor drain unless I get the IFCS working, right?

 

[proavia]

The diverter valve has a flap on the bottom to allow adjusting flow between skimmer and main drain. In order to get good skimmer flow, barely any water will be pulled from the main drain. The main purpose of the diverter valve (in my mind) is as a safeguard if the water level falls below the skimmer throat. In this case, the float in the diverter seals off the skimmer side and pulls water solely from the main drain until the water level is high enough for the skimmer to properly function again.

Cheap fix?
Chances are half the popups need to be replaced - plus the water valve innards. Additionally, both brass valves will need to be changed out with Jandy valves. That's probably a $500 to $1000 minimum investment. And then there is the issue of not being able to properly set the water draw from the main drain. All that for a system that may or may not satisfactorily clean the pool.

Your plan to run the suction side vac a few days a week is sound. And if you're around the house, you can run it only long enough to clean the pool bottom and the rest of that days pump run time can be dedicated to the skimmer.

 

[DocBob]

Thanks again @proavia , I've ordered the diverter valve. And probably not worth messing with the IFCS… I’d rather put that money towards a good robotic cleaner. I am contemplating a heat pump as well at some point… That’ll be the time to replace those brass valves. For now I think I’m going to just enjoy the pool.