Tired of Leslie's. Ready to do this on my own.

The big difference between the two methods of raising FC to the proper sanitation level is the time required. There is also the real possibility that your SWCG is already too far behind and will not keep up going foward. You are free to try it but your kids probably want to use the pool sooner than later. Keep us posted on your progress. :cheers:
 
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+1 on the advice to bump up your chlorine with liquid chlorine. Your SWCG could do it but it would take several days going all out. For a $6 bottle of liquid chlorine I would rather get the instant rise in FC and save some wear and tear on by SWCG.
used the pool math and did a slow rise with liquid chlorine to take it from 1 to about 3. will retest in an hour or more and see where i land before adding more.
 
The big difference between the two methods of raising FC to the proper sanitation level is the time required. There is also the real possibility that your SWCG is already too far behind and will not keep up going foward. You are free to try it but your kids probably want to use the pool sooner than later. Keep us posted on your progress. :cheers:
the kids want to use the pool daily LOL
 
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used the pool math and did a slow rise with liquid chlorine to take it from 1 to about 3. will retest in an hour or more and see where i land before adding more.
You’re going to need to get your FC up past 3, as you’re courting algae at that level. I prefer to keep FC in the 8-10 range with CYA in the 70-80 range.
 
Get chlorine in the pool. Follow this chart. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Your pH is fine. Let it rise to 8.0, then reduce to 7.6 with Muriatic acid.
Your TA is fine. Don't mess with TA generally, manage pH.
Ignore phosphates.

Algae.
Get a FAS-DPD test kit. Taylor K-1515C or FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit You need it to manage your pool.

When you get the test kit, do this test. It will tell you if you have algae...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Use your test kit and trust it. Do not use pool store testing.

Sincerely,
PoolStored
I have had a pool for 50 years and I have always relied on my own testing using test kits. My pools (several over the years ) have always been crystal clear using my own methods. You are right about the pool stores, they are in it to make money and try to sell you chemicals you do not need.
 
Alright.

So I took some more readings today using my own test kit and this is what I got:

Free Chlorine: ~4-4.5
*Total Chlorine: ~4-4.5
*Combined Chlorine: ???
pH: 7.6
Total Alkilinity: 95
Calcium Hardness: 225
**CYA: 35
Salt: 3196


Notes:
* to be honest, this step makes no sense to me as i continually get the same reading, or lower for TC than FC when i follow the instructions (I did order a FAS-DPD-Chlorine-Test-Kit which should be here early next week ... maybe this will help me?)
** should be noted that I added 1 gallon of conditioner (CYA) 48 hours ago

The good news is that the pool looks noticably clearer and the cloudiness has almost all but gone.

I know I probably need to get my CYA up higher and I have granules on hand. What's the best method to get these going (I read something about a sock)?
Any other suggestions for next steps?

Thanks again!
 
Don't be afraid to raise your Chlorine levels higher. From reading this thread, it seems like you want to keep that level on the lower end. With CYA in the water the excess Chlorine will be buffered and released when needed.

A pool with Chlorine level of 1ppm and 0ppm CYA will be harsher than a pool with Chlorine level of 4ppm and 50CYA.

Having a SWCG, you should also invest in a Taylor Salt Test K-1766. I wouldn't trust Leslie's testing. Maybe next season invest in the TF Pro Salt kit. I love mine, and the Smart Stir makes testing a breeze.
 
Don't be afraid to raise your Chlorine levels higher. From reading this thread, it seems like you want to keep that level on the lower end. With CYA in the water the excess Chlorine will be buffered and released when needed.

A pool with Chlorine level of 1ppm and 0ppm CYA will be harsher than a pool with Chlorine level of 4ppm and 50CYA.

Having a SWCG, you should also invest in a Taylor Salt Test K-1766. I wouldn't trust Leslie's testing. Maybe next season invest in the TF Pro Salt kit. I love mine, and the Smart Stir makes testing a breeze.
I'm going to add my CYA today and get it up to a higher level of around 70+.
I am not opposed to adding more chlorine either. I'll check the chart to see where I need to land.

As far as the salt number, I get that right from my SWCG through the Hayward OmniLogic app. It's the reading for instant salt.
 

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If you have an active algae population then raising your CYA now is not a good idea. Diagnose your situation with an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or simply start and finish your SLAM Process before raising your CYA and letting your SWCG maintain your FC.
This is key FC/CYA Levels
Also your CYA now is 40, round up, no middle numbers identifiable on a log scale.
got it. well i have to wait for my kit to arrive now. i can raise the chlorine a little in the meantime to get it around 7 with bleach. thanks.
 
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Echoing what Oly said, do NOT add anymore CYA at this time. If you’re truly sitting at 35 (round up to 40) you’re okay for now. Just maintain the upper levels of your FC and add LC as needed.

Run the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if you have algae in the pool eating up your chlorine and if you do, you’ll have to perform a SLAM. If a SLAM is needed, it’s better to have a lower CYA because you’ll be dumping in much less LC as opposed to having a high CYA level. For instance, a CYA of 40 would require a SLAM level of 16ppm of FC in your pool. If you keep adding CYA and let’s say you raised it to 70 or 80, your looking at keeping your SLAM level at 28-32ppm of FC. Huge difference!

Keep listening to the guys/gals on this site…they won’t lead you astray. Also, read up on the OCLT and SLAM process just to familiarize yourself.
 
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Echoing what Oly said, do NOT add anymore CYA at this time. If you’re truly sitting at 35 (round up to 40) you’re okay for now. Just maintain the upper levels of your FC and add LC as needed.

Run the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if you have algae in the pool eating up your chlorine and if you do, you’ll have to perform a SLAM. If a SLAM is needed, it’s better to have a lower CYA because you’ll be dumping in much less LC as opposed to having a high CYA level. For instance, a CYA of 40 would require a SLAM level of 16ppm of FC in your pool. If you keep adding CYA and let’s say you raised it to 70 or 80, your looking at keeping your SLAM level at 28-32ppm of FC. Huge difference!

Keep listening to the guys/gals on this site…they won’t lead you astray. Also, read up on the OCLT and SLAM process just to familiarize yourself.
thanks for the feedback.

that's also why i came to this sight, for the knowledge and support.

i just added some more LC to get my FC levels to about 6.5-7 based on my current CYA reading of around 40. the test kit was ordered tuesday so it probably wont be here until monday or so. i have family coming into town today and we plan to use the pool all weekend. once they leave, i'll double check everything and run the OCLT.

the pool is MUCH clearer than when i originally posted on tuesday, so im going to assume the FC is already doing its job, but it will be good to check.
 
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thanks for the feedback.

that's also why i came to this sight, for the knowledge and support.

i just added some more LC to get my FC levels to about 6.5-7 based on my current CYA reading of around 40. the test kit was ordered tuesday so it probably wont be here until monday or so. i have family coming into town today and we plan to use the pool all weekend. once they leave, i'll double check everything and run the OCLT.

the pool is MUCH clearer than when i originally posted on tuesday, so im going to assume the FC is already doing its job, but it will be good to check.
I was in the same boat as you my friend…just a handful of months ago. This site has simply been amazing and the level of expertise on here cannot be matched elsewhere…especially not the pool store LOL!

Just keep your FC levels up as directed and when you get your test kit be sure to run the battery of tests, including the OCLT.
 
I'm going to add my CYA today and get it up to a higher level of around 70+.
I am not opposed to adding more chlorine either. I'll check the chart to see where I need to land.

As far as the salt number, I get that right from my SWCG through the Hayward OmniLogic app. It's the reading for instant salt.
Do not rely ONLY on the SWCG for salt readings. They are notoriously inaccurate. I use the salt test kit to get the correct number and then I have had to adjust the generator to match.
 
Alright, here's the update.

I took readings of everything using my K-2005 test kit (excluding FC/TC/CC which i used the FAS/DPD test) yesterday at 1030AM and this is what I had:

pH: 7.5
FC: 7.5
TC: 7.5
CC: 0.0
TA: 80
CH: 210
CYA: 30
Salt: 3171 (using SWCG reading)

So far so good. I then did the OCLT starting last night at 9PM. I ran the pumps for a few hours with the SWCG totally off and took my initial reading last night at 9PM with the FAS/DPD and got 7.5 FC, 7.5 TC, 0.0 CC. I circulated the pump again this morning at 4AM and took a reading at 530AM with the SWCG off again. Got the exact same readings, so from what I've read and been told on here it seems like I have no chlorine loss and therefore no algae etc.

So a few questions on next steps:
  1. Get the CYA to where it needs to be
  2. Maintain pH and Chlorine by taking daily readings
  3. Work on TA/CH, etc.
Is this what the experts here would reccommend?

Thanks!
 
Get the CYA to where it needs to be
CYA is the only thing you need to do right away, besides ensuring the FC stays free and clear away from minimum.

swcg_chart.jpg

A power outage or big storm that went unmixed may take the cell offline for 12 hours. That's not a daily concern but entirely possible several times a season. You might lose 4ppm mid season if that happens, so that's the closest I ever allow mine to get to minimum. A full, one day buffer. It often overproduces and I have a few days buffer, but that's just more peace of mind.
Maintain pH
Keep the PH in the 7s the best you can. Ph is a long term concern. If you dose a day or two early/late, there's no harm. So pay attention, but don't obsess over it.
Work on TA/CH, etc.
Your TA is fine and if you have no waterline tiles/grout, your CH is fine too for modern fiberglass.
 
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