time to replace?

[midtngal]

Thanks Randy! This was my first time, but, it's kinda close to painting fingernails so.... LOL Yeah, I think I probably did scratch one of those wires...can't think of any other reason it didn't work after reading and seeing all the others that had done this and it worked. I'm looking for the motherboards now and believe it or not, it looks like I can get one for $190! In looking at the whole system, it's **** close to $1,000!!! {gulp}! I'm happy to only spend $190...it would of cost me more than that for some pool guy to come look at it!

Thanks a bunch for your help!

 

[one_knight4u]

YW.
I would just hang on to that motherboard for a little while, you may need some numbers off it to match up for a new one.

There is a special little pen that will allow you to draw copper traces (lines or wires) on the circuit board to fix the ones that you may have scratched.
That is found HERE.

At this point, i would go with a new motherboard if you can because without further testing its unknown at the moment why the repair didn't work.
I am not really familiar with a SWG, so someone else could chime in on what other parts are involved and could be bad and make a determination to go for a motherboard or new system.

 

[chiefwej]

I just repaired mine. I just broke off what was left of the old resister from its legs, tinned them and soldered the new part to the legs of the old with the new part at a 90 degree angle from the old. That way it's standing off the board and up so that it's heat won't effect the board or other components. It seems to have solved my problem for $3 instead of $300. I even bought a couple extra since all my neighbors have the same unit and shipping was more than the part.

 

[midtngal]

I would just hang on to that motherboard for a little while, you may need some numbers off it to match up for a new one.

Ha! Ha! Yeah, I do that with just about everything! I call my pump area "the boneyard" for all the past pool pumps that are out there...just in case! LOL I'm bookmarking the page for that pen! That's kinda cool! It might very well have fixed this! Oh well, this thing is 6 years old...it's time anyway. But, I will keep it for future reference or if the new one doesn't work, I'll get this pen and see what happens there!

I went ahead and ordered the one I found for $190 so I should have it the first of next week. Fingers crossed that that will take care of the problem!

- - - Updated - - -

I just repaired mine. I just broke off what was left of the old resister from its legs, tinned them and soldered the new part to the legs of the old with the new part at a 90 degree angle from the old. That way it's standing off the board and up so that it's heat won't effect the board or other components. It seems to have solved my problem for $3 instead of $300. I even bought a couple extra since all my neighbors have the same unit and shipping was more than the part.

Yeah, mine probably would have worked too if I hadn't scratched the back surface. I did everything else just like I was supposed to, according to all the videos I watched. I did the same thing...bought extras. I was willing to pay the extra shipping if it was going to fix my SWG for less than $10! But...lesson learned..don't scratch those lines on the back of the motherboard!

 

[midtngal]

Oh good grief! I just received and installed my new motherboard. I followed all directions to the letter. I still have no light for power and once the no flow light stops flashing, the generating sanitizer light comes on for about 5 secs and then goes out! Is it possible that the inrush piece is bad on a brand new board? I tried to call Hayward but they are already closed for the day. Anyone have any ideas on what the problem here is?

Thanks!

 

[midtngal]

Okay...to close this saga.. When replacing the motherboard on your SWG there are 4 screws on the bottom left hand side..if you are running 110v power to the cell, the leads will be in positions 1 and 4 (which I had gotten). BUT, what is NOT apparent is that there are plates that fit between 1 and 2, 3 and 4. They have to be in those positions...not the 2 and 3 that the board came in. I'm nowhere near an electrician but the guy at Hayward explained that this makes the difference between power to the cell and no power to the cell. So, I moved those plates into their prospective positions and I am up and running and generating chlorine again!