DR87

Member
Aug 29, 2022
6
Missouri
Hi All,

Im a new SWG (cell is new as of this season) pool owner as of mid-august and I've inherited a bit of a lemon... Minor details, I live in STL Missouri and we had horrid flooding at the end of July, former owner got the pool "cleaned" prior to closing but I later found the filter (DE Filter) was super full of mud after I Youtube'd everything and got it cleaned up and recharged. Well the pool continues to start to turn green slowly from what I'm assuming is the SWG not doing its job. I got test strips and found super low chlorine levels, other readings based off the strips seem within range.

The controller is an old Aquarite (and it looks OLD) and when I hit the diagnostic button to go to the SWG voltage reading it goes up to 18-21 and the power light and generating light go to on, then the voltage drops and the lights turn off. The salt reading has remained at 2400 despite adding substantial amounts of salt (was at 1900, calculated volume, added salt based off a calculator) because I know it was diluted from the rain and the previous owner said she didnt add any after the storm. Well its at 2400 now and I added more salt 3 days ago and still no change, I have salt testing strips coming today.

I've read it could be a bad thermistor on the PCB which doesn't look like a terrible fix, but the diagnostic button is really slow to snap back after I push it sometimes, also sometimes tapping the metal faceplate causing the whole thing to scramble for a minute.

But before I drop the coin on a new board and install it, I figured I'd poll the masses. - Video of the Issue - YouTube

*skip to the 1:00 mark to really see what occurs, the earlier parts are just it climbing from near up.

Thank All!
 
Hi All,

Im a new SWG (cell is new as of this season) pool owner as of mid-august and I've inherited a bit of a lemon... Minor details, I live in STL Missouri and we had horrid flooding at the end of July, former owner got the pool "cleaned" prior to closing but I later found the filter (DE Filter) was super full of mud after I Youtube'd everything and got it cleaned up and recharged. Well the pool continues to start to turn green slowly from what I'm assuming is the SWG not doing its job. I got test strips and found super low chlorine levels, other readings based off the strips seem within range.

The controller is an old Aquarite (and it looks OLD) and when I hit the diagnostic button to go to the SWG voltage reading it goes up to 18-21 and the power light and generating light go to on, then the voltage drops and the lights turn off. The salt reading has remained at 2400 despite adding substantial amounts of salt (was at 1900, calculated volume, added salt based off a calculator) because I know it was diluted from the rain and the previous owner said she didnt add any after the storm. Well its at 2400 now and I added more salt 3 days ago and still no change, I have salt testing strips coming today.

I've read it could be a bad thermistor on the PCB which doesn't look like a terrible fix, but the diagnostic button is really slow to snap back after I push it sometimes, also sometimes tapping the metal faceplate causing the whole thing to scramble for a minute.

But before I drop the coin on a new board and install it, I figured I'd poll the masses. - Video of the Issue - YouTube

*skip to the 1:00 mark to really see what occurs, the earlier parts are just it climbing from near up.

Thank All!
I would check the thermistor. Take off the front cover and the thermistor is on the right upper side - a wafer about the size of a quarter and about 3/16 inch thick either black or grey. If you can see visible flaking of it, chances are it is bad. Try tapping it and see what happens to the display lights,
 
I would check the thermistor. Take off the front cover and the thermistor is on the right upper side - a wafer about the size of a quarter and about 3/16 inch thick either black or grey. If you can see visible flaking of it, chances are it is bad. Try tapping it and see what happens to the display lights,
Thanks for the reply! It def looks old, but not cracked or flaky, tapping it a few times didn't change anything where the voltage climbing to 17 lights come on and voltage climbs up before crashing and then the lights go off. Board works fine otherwise (so it appears).

Pool store says the board sounds like the problem, $500 to replace on my own 700-750 if they do it. My soldering skills are "ok" seems these thermistors are pretty well known for crapping out.

Figure if the part is $15 for 2, I give it shot, best case I save $500.
 

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Seems to be what Im landing on as well per my research. $9 from amazon + a new soldering iron because I have no idea which box my old one is in ($20) which will be here today/tomorrow. Sounds a lot better than $500.
Hope that is the problem. Had the same a few years ago and replacing the thermistor fixed it.
 
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Well, just got done soldering in the new thermistor and got it all hooked up and back in. Lights came right back on! Salt reading has began going up. Lights no longer shutoff and no "click" is heard. Def appears that was the problem, I'll keep an eye on it for the next few hours but I think Im almost out of the woods! Thanks for the help!
 
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