thinking of getting rid of the sand filter

[turbo v6 camaro]

hello

we bought the house with this in-ground indoor pool (details in sig), it has a large sand filter, and frankly since it's in the room with the Well stuff/sofener and HVAC for the house the room is crowded

this year i cannot get my pool to clear up, when i vacuumed the dirt just came back out even after a very long backwash.

I thought about replacing the sand (not sure if has ever been done in 30 years............)

then i found DE a Cart filter are much smaller witch will save me space in a very cramped room.

we had an outdoor pool when i was kid and it had a DE filter on it, It was not that hard to pull the thing hose it off and put it back in, dump the DE in there.

The filter is starting to show its age as I get a few drips of water out the top of the valve sometimes.

I was looking at something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-C1200-Star-Clear-120-Square-Foot-2-Inch/dp/B000P58124/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1496680038&sr=8-8&keywords=pool+de+filter

 

[Flying Tivo]

You can always add DE to your sand filter. This would at least get you learning how to use DE. If it does not, then you can change to a DE filter.

Felipe

 

[Rollercoastr]

A sand filter that's taking up too much space and leaking are good reasons to swap it for a smaller/DE filter, but dirt re-entering the pool is not a normal condition for sand filter. I suspect damaged laterals or a damaged/unseated stand pipe.

Unless you're intent on replacing it, I recommend opening it up to inspect the internals. I assume you have the same challenges I do with the traditional deep cleaning method: I can't stick a hose into my filter and rinse out all the dirt without flooding my basement. TFP doesn't believe in replacing sand because of "wear", but replacing some/most would serve to clean and allow you to inspect. (and keep in mind that if you replace it, you'd likely have to empty it anyway - these suckers are heavy when full of wet sand!)

As far as backwashing, I backwash until the sight glass runs clear. That's typically 2 - 3.5 minutes, then I rinse for 30 seconds. Are you including a rinse cycle? That helps settle the sand after the backwash without pushing it into the pool. I have not had any dirt re-enter the pool.

I get an extra polish and sparkle by adding DE.

 

[needsajet]

Great comments above. My sand filter is similar, and backwashes in around 1.5 to 2.5 minutes. After that, I need a 2-minute rinse or I will see fine dust coming back to the pool out of the return jets for a few seconds.

With an indoor pool, you shouldn't be getting a whole lot of dust. Just wondering if you've ruled out algae with an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

I'm also using a cup of DE in my sand filter for a bit of extra polish, per this procedure: Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter

 

[turbo v6 camaro]

thanks,

the pool was full of Algee when i opened it pool was inactive for over a year. I'm still trying to shock the monkeys out of it, but my FC is like 8 and my CC is like 3 I guess i need to add more bleach but my new heater says not to go over 5ppm so I'm kinda stuck ????

I will flood my house if i tried to clean the sand filter where it is I would have to move it outside and do it and if i so that i may as well replace the sand since i would have to take it all out to inspect it anyway

 

[needsajet]

Yeh, it sounds like you'll need to suck the sand out with a wet/dry shop vac. It's fine to re-use it or replace it, whichever is easiest for you.

If you have your CYA at 30 ppm, for example, and your FC at 12 ppm (shock level for 30 ppm CYA), there is less active chlorine than an unstabilized (0 CYA) pool at 1 ppm FC.

The CYA provides a buffer which protects the equipment from too much active chlorine. What we measure is free chlorine (FC) which includes the chlorine bound up with CYA as chlorinated isocyanurates. If your pool has no CYA, then consider adding at least 20 ppm CYA and you'll find that 30 ppm CYA is a lot easier to measure.

 

[turbo v6 camaro]

Yeh, it sounds like you'll need to suck the sand out with a wet/dry shop vac. It's fine to re-use it or replace it, whichever is easiest for you.

If you have your CYA at 30 ppm, for example, and your FC at 12 ppm (shock level for 30 ppm CYA), there is less active chlorine than an unstabilized (0 CYA) pool at 1 ppm FC.

The CYA provides a buffer which protects the equipment from too much active chlorine. What we measure is free chlorine (FC) which includes the chlorine bound up with CYA as chlorinated isocyanurates. If your pool has no CYA, then consider adding at least 20 ppm CYA and you'll find that 30 ppm CYA is a lot easier to measure.

THanks that makes sense, I did add CYA I may add a bit more if my level stays the same tommorow

fc=6.46 (added bleach for shock of 13-14) falling from last test (8 .xx)
cc=.72 - falling from last test (3.xx)
ph=7.1 (baking soda should help a little, if TA goes back to 100 i'll air it out again and keep putting in soda, up from 6.9 last test
ta=72 (added backing soda) down from 101 last test
ch=178 (i need to buy more will get soon) up from 177 last test
cya=21 ( my pool is indoors cya 20 is great for me i aim for 20-30) down from 22 last test

again i'm using the color Q pro 11 for testing
temp=82

i put in 121oz of 8.25% bleach to shock it, it says i only need 99oz but since i check the levels until tomorrow night (once a day due to work) the little extra wont hurt.

so this means 48 hours i lost ~2.5 FC and ~2.3CC ( i forgot to do anything with the pool yesterday LOL dang it)

 

[needsajet]

I don't know anything about the colorq. Post #3 in this thread has a great summary of pluses and minuses for the -7. LaMotte 2056 ColorQ Pro 7 Digital Pool Water Test Kit

Baking soda won't affect pH noticeably and the colorq TA result suggests TA is fine. Borax is the best choice for raising just the pH, with the least effect on TA. Soda ash (aka washing soda) is also great for raising pH but with a larger upward effect on TA.

More here: Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

So how does the water look? Other than pH, your numbers look really good

 

[Rollercoastr]

ch=178 (i need to buy more will get soon) up from 177 last test

Couldn't you leave that where it is with a fiberglass pool?

From one indoor guy to another, at some point I'd like to hear about and see pics of your pool.

 

[turbo v6 camaro]

I don't know anything about the colorq. Post #3 in this thread has a great summary of pluses and minuses for the -7. LaMotte 2056 ColorQ Pro 7 Digital Pool Water Test Kit

Baking soda won't affect pH noticeably and the colorq TA result suggests TA is fine. Borax is the best choice for raising just the pH, with the least effect on TA. Soda ash (aka washing soda) is also great for raising pH but with a larger upward effect on TA.

More here: Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

So how does the water look? Other than pH, your numbers look really good

this morning i glanced at it, much clearer! after that shock last night. I work from 10-10 yesterday, I read soda and dumped in baking then notice it said washing..... lol I'll pick up some borax at WM on the way home

so far the color Q has been great and repeatable, the tab are vac sealed and dont expire every year and you get a BUNCH of them its also faster that counting drops and the my eyes dont burn

being color blind even the taylor kit would make me want to punt it. !

Couldn't you leave that where it is with a fiberglass pool?

From one indoor guy to another, at some point I'd like to hear about and see pics of your pool.

the TFP app/online calc says 260 for my pool ?????

ill try and get some photos real fast

 

[needsajet]

Yeh 260 CH is good. A bit of calcium in fibreglass helps prevent something, maybe staining. Here's the reference just to have it all in one place.
Pool School - Recommended Levels

 

[turbo v6 camaro]

well it was real fast but here are some photos and result, ignor the mess, I clean up after SLAM lol just need to get rid of the CC and pass the overnight test and ill be good !!

okay so basically only had time to test the FC and add bleach, 2 days ago I vaccumed to waste all the stuff on the bottom, took out 3 inches of water out of the pool, the pump was sucking a little air, but i think it helped when i backwashed my sand filter, i have NEVER seen the glass get that dirty and for so long, I think the air help flush stuff out !!!

levels now i had to add water back in so i added in CYA to counter

FC 9.62
TC 12
CC 2.38 ( test does not messure CC you just subtrac the FC from TC
PH 7.4
ALY 136
CH 113
CYA 29

pool looks amazing now

BEFORE June 8th
View attachment 63893


after
(today)View attachment 63894

 

[Rollercoastr]

pool looks amazing now

BEFORE June 8th
View attachment 63893


after
(today)View attachment 63894

I concur!