TF100 results

Yeah, the pool guy who is on his last month of service with us ended up shocking the pool as he saw it had low chlorine levels. I forgot to notify him that I was trying to get the pH down.

Sad that he doesn't ever mention to me about the pH or CYA issues my pool has huh? Wish I found this site long time ago :)
 
Hi everyone. Reviving my thread with an update on my quest to become a DIY pool caretaker.

Here are my latest TF100 test kit #'s compared to what they were when I first started testing:

TC:19 (Near shock levels based on my CYA)
PH: 8 (Was down to 7.2 just a week ago, started at 9.5)
TA: 190 (Down from 195 2 weeks ago)
CH: 300 (No changee)
CYA: 55 (Down from 65)

So after dropping the pH using the muriatic acid method, I started on doing a liquid chlorine shock. Took alot but I'm just about there. How long does it need I need to hold it there?

1 week later and pH is back up to 8.0 level on its own. I didn't do any aeration but yet, TA still lowered itself. Is that from wind and the pump just moving water around? If I understand pool school correctly, I need to just keep lowering pH - let it or force pH up - repeat ... until TA comes down to "acceptable" levels.

Hope I'm on the right track here?

PS - I do need to drop CYA soon. I know I'm wasting alot of chlorine with CYA levels so high. That's next on my list.
 
The pH test reads artificially high when the FC > 10ppm ... best to not worry about the pH in the middle of the shock process. When you added the muriatic acid, that would also lower the TA some.

You need to maintain the shock FC level until you pass the 3 criteria that let you know you can stop.
 
Pool shock success! Thanks to everyone for the help here.

OCLT test revealed no loss of chlorine overnight during 10 hr time window. Pool looks crystal clear now. Ignore the stains in the shallow end. I need a replaster job eventually :(

y6ube4ed.jpg


Next I need to get TA lowered and pH steady in the recommended range.
 
jblizzle said:
Nice work :goodjob:

Are the stains organic or metal? Either way, you can likely greatly reduce them without a replaster.

Plaster company that looked at it says its a bubble formed between original gunite layer and the plaster laid over the top of it. Water gets in there and sits and forms whatever it is that's making those ugly stains. No one has gone down into there to see if its organic or metallic. Is there an easy way for me to tell? Sure would be great if I could clean those stains up while I save up for the replaster.
 
Put a trichlor puck on for a few minutes, if the stain lightens it is organic ... elevated FC levels and scrubbing should remove it

Put some crushed up vitamin C on the stain, it it lightens it is metallic ... AA treatment, or a lot more vitamin C tablets should remove it
 
jblizzle said:
Put a trichlor puck on for a few minutes, if the stain lightens it is organic ... elevated FC levels and scrubbing should remove it

Put some crushed up vitamin C on the stain, it it lightens it is metallic ... AA treatment, or a lot more vitamin C tablets should remove it

Great. More "fun" weekend DIY projects :party:

Thanks for the tips!
 

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