TF100 results (5/7 update), back to green in a 2 hour span!!

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Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

Forget about TA until you are done shocking. Just drop your pH to the low 7s and start shocking. Things are just getting worse the longer you wait.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone :)
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

My next two questions...

First:

In the sticky on 'Turning Your Green Swamp into a Sparkling Oasis" it says, "As long as the water remains a rich green, wait one hour and then assume that FC is zero. The algae will start turning gray or white when the FC level starts holding."

I've been shocking all day, the pool is still VERY green, but the FC is holding 60-75% of shock value over an hour. The way I read the above statement, I should see a color change if the FC is holding that well. Am I misunderstanding this statement? Is it reasonable for the pool to be green even though FC is holding 60-75% of it's initial target?


Second:

The filter is hitting the 10psi increase in about 1.5 hours. So, what do I do when I go to bed tonight? Do I...
Shut the filter off?
Leave it on and allow the psi to keep increasing (can't imagine that's a good idea)?
Switch the valve over to 'recirc' to keep the water moving?
Something else?
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

The color normally changes early on but there are cases where it takes a while. Just keep it at shock level.
As for the pump just run it about 30 mins after the last chlorine addition and shut it down until the morning.
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

So the overnight wasn't too bad. FC was 4 when I measured it this morning (I expected it to be 0). And the pool is slowly starting to change color (it is now a 'milky green'). My question, now, is in regards to filter pressure.

When I backwash the filter, the immediate restart pressure is about 12psi. Once I add DE, it goes up to about 16-17psi. Over the next 45-60 minutes, it climbs to 23-24psi. I've been assuming this is due to clogging and I have been backwashing at that 23-24 mark frequently. What I learned when my wife forgot to turn off the filter this morning, however (I had already left for church, and she was to turn it off when she left), is that it is staying there. I returned after the filter had been running for 5 hours and found that it was still hanging at 23psi.

Can anyone explain this to me? Why would it climb from 16-23 so quickly, and then just stay there?
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

There could be several reasons it's doing that. It could be that it's catching a lot to begin with and as the flow slows down it'll only build so high and it bypasses enough water even mostly clogged that the pressure doesn't rise more. It could also be that your pump can only build that much pressure due to a partially clogged impeller.
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

Bama Rambler said:
There could be several reasons it's doing that. It could be that it's catching a lot to begin with and as the flow slows down it'll only build so high and it bypasses enough water even mostly clogged that the pressure doesn't rise more. It could also be that your pump can only build that much pressure due to a partially clogged impeller.
Click to expand...

It's a brand new pump motor - so I'm hoping it's not a clogged impeller (doesn't act/sound like it's having any trouble). The other explanation makes a lot of sense.

I guess I'll just keep backwashing as much as I can (keeping the pool full is crazy and I'm going through DE like mad!).
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

Bama Rambler said:
When clearing a pool, you'll backwash a lot especially in the beginning. That'll be over soon and you'll hardly ever need to backwash. :-D
Click to expand...

So I'm learning.

Thanks to you, and everyone, for sticking with me. This was not the ideal pool for a newbie!!
 

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Re: Test Kit results - new update and questions 5/2

Time for an update and a couple of questions to check in on what I am seeing.

Shocking is continuing, and the FC levels are holding moderately (losing 1-2ppm overnight without filtration, 3ppm in 4-6 hours during the day with filtration and low cya). Monday, I noticed a few issues with the filter grids, so I bit the bullet and replaced the entire set yesterday. The filter is still reaching the 10psi increase in 60-90 minutes (requiring a backwash), but the initial flow through the returns is noticeably better. So now, with new grids and the FC holding, there are two things I am seeing that I hope you'll chime in on.

1) Color! The color is changing, but not to the milky-white that the pool school articles suggest. The color is slowly changing to more of a yellowish-brown. Also, the color change is more apparent in the shallow end and less in the deep end. Does this make sense?

2) Each time I finish the backwash/rinse cycle and switch back to the filter cycle, when the flow first passes through the returns (before I even have a chance to add DE) I see an initial plume that looks like a white cloud passing into the water. It only lasts a few seconds, but it is noticeable in each of the 4 returns. Any ideas on this?

Thanks, again, for all of your input!
 
Re: Test Kit results - new update and questions 5/2

2) Do you run the Rinse and then switch to Filter or do you go from Backwash to Filter? If the second, it could just be a little debris left in the multi valve.
 
Re: Test Kit results - new update and questions 5/2

jblizzle said:
2) Do you run the Rinse and then switch to Filter or do you go from Backwash to Filter? If the second, it could just be a little debris left in the multi valve.
Click to expand...

Typical cycle is 3 minutes on backwash, 45 seconds on rinse, 2-3 minutes on backwash, 45 seconds on rinse, then return to filter setting.
 
Re: Test Kit results - new update and questions 5/2

mickeyfan0805 said:
Time for an update and a couple of questions to check in on what I am seeing.

Shocking is continuing, and the FC levels are holding moderately (losing 1-2ppm overnight without filtration, 3ppm in 4-6 hours during the day with filtration and low cya). Monday, I noticed a few issues with the filter grids, so I bit the bullet and replaced the entire set yesterday. The filter is still reaching the 10psi increase in 60-90 minutes (requiring a backwash), but the initial flow through the returns is noticeably better. So now, with new grids and the FC holding, there are two things I am seeing that I hope you'll chime in on.

1) Color! The color is changing, but not to the milky-white that the pool school articles suggest. The color is slowly changing to more of a yellowish-brown. Also, the color change is more apparent in the shallow end and less in the deep end. Does this make sense?

2) Each time I finish the backwash/rinse cycle and switch back to the filter cycle, when the flow first passes through the returns (before I even have a chance to add DE) I see an initial plume that looks like a white cloud passing into the water. It only lasts a few seconds, but it is noticeable in each of the 4 returns. Any ideas on this?

Thanks, again, for all of your input!
Click to expand...

In addition to these two questions - allow me to add one more...

Given the situation, would it make sense to spend a little time vacuuming to waste? I know I would need to watch the water level, but given the fact that my filter time is limited because I have to backwash every 90 minutes (I'm only getting 5-6 hours a day due to work and sleep), I'm wondering if it would help to try to get a chunk of the debris off the bottom, quickly, by bypassing the filter altogether.
 
Re: Test Kit results - new update and questions 5/2

mickeyfan0805 said:
Given the situation, would it make sense to spend a little time vacuuming to waste? I know I would need to watch the water level, but given the fact that my filter time is limited because I have to backwash every 90 minutes (I'm only getting 5-6 hours a day due to work and sleep), I'm wondering if it would help to try to get a chunk of the debris off the bottom, quickly, by bypassing the filter altogether.
Click to expand...
If you have debris on the bottom, you need to get it out. Vacuuming to waste (i.e. taking the debris/water out of the pool and bypassing the filter) is a good idea. Also, if there are solids in there, use a leaf net first to get all it all out before vacuuming to waste. If you leave that organic material in there, it will eat up your chlorine that is needed to clear the rest of the pool.
 
Re: Test Kit results - new update and questions 5/2

1) Yes, that color change is normal. Algae almost always changes color as it dies, but the dead color can be white, gray, green, yellow, or anything around one of those. The shallow end looks different because you are seeing light that hasn't gone through nearly as much algae as it has to go through in the deep end.
2) Most likely you are seeing some debris that was stuck in the filter that is small enough to get through the uncoated grids before they get coated with DE.
3) Vacuuming to waste is especially useful when there are large easy to get at piles of debris. If it is only a very thin spread out layer it is often best to vacuum regularly (on filter) and then backwash/clean the filter right after vacuuming.
 
Re: Test Kit results - new update and questions 5/2

I need to check in...

Finally, yesterday, I came home from church to a blue pool!! The FC level was holding and the pool was clearing beautifully. I turned the filter off for the night, then turned it back on this morning - still looking good.

Then, sometime between lunch and 2:30 this afternoon - it turned green again!! I checked the FC level (it was at 7.5 this morning) and it was down to 2.5.

I'm guessing the sudden turn back to green means that the algae still has a hold on it, and that I need to hold on to shock level for a while longer. I brought the pool back up to shock level and will keep it there until the FC holds better.

Am I on the right track, or is there something else I am missing? I am thrown by how quickly it went from blue to green (in a matter of a couple of hours), and it isn't going back nearly as readily.

I just need some affirmation that I'm reading the situation correctly. I'm a little disheartened that I was only able to maintain the decent color for 24 hours!!
 
Re: TF100 results (5/7 update), back to green in a 2 hour sp

What were your results for the Overnight chlorine loss test?

What is you CC level?

When you say your water was blue, was it crystal clear at that point?

Remember you are not done shocking until you pass all three criteria (the three above). An FC level of 7.5 ppm is not shocking the pool. For cya level of 0, your pool should never be left below 10 ppm (according to poolcalculator.com). Please reread the shocking process: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool

If you are having trouble holding the shocking FC level during the day, it might make sense to get ~30 ppm cya in there now that you have made some progress (have seen the pool turn blue). Remember that will change you target minimum shock level to 13 ppm FC.

Have you gotten the stuff off the bottom?
 
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