TF-100 Newbie

[twowhlrcr]

Great! A CH of 625 is much more manageable. Glad you got that figured out. While 625 is much better than 1,000+, it's still approaching the elevated end of the CH scale. All that means is that you need to be mindful of your pH throughout the week. Last tested it was about 7.6 which is good, but try to not let the pH exceed 7.8 or so. If you do, then there is a higher potential for scale. Also know that with each application of muriatic acid to manage pH, it will slowly lower the TA which should be a good thing for you as well. If later you want to lower the TA quicker, let the pH hit that 7.8 mark then use enough acid to lower the pH to about 7.0 - 7.2. Each time you do that it puts a dent in the TA. You can let the TA fall as low as 50 - 60 and be fine. Since your local water is so hard, supplementing top-offs with that soft water is a great tool.

In short, you'll find as the temps increase in the Valley of the Sun, the CSI number on the PoolMath APP will increase. Water temp, pH, TA, and CH contribute to scale if they all get too high at the same time. Managing the pH is the best way to compensate for that. Hope that helps. If you have more questions let us know.

Great info. 2 questions:

1) Should I first concentrate on lowering my CYA by doing a partial drain and refill? I know that will probably affect all my numbers. After I do that I can retest and get everything on par.
2) I remember hearing that it wasn't good to add too much muriatic acid at one time.....Is that just a myth?

Thanks again.

 

[twowhlrcr]

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Done! $100 Sent.

 

[mknauss]

1) Should I first concentrate on lowering my CYA by doing a partial drain and refill? I know that will probably affect all my numbers. After I do that I can retest and get everything on par.

No real need. A CYA of 70 can be managed - just follow the FC/CYA Levels. IF you get some late winter rains, drain down a few inches before the rain. Harvest water from the downspouts (if you have them). CYA does degrade slowly so by May I suspect yours will be at 50 ppm or so.

2) I remember hearing that it wasn't good to add too much muriatic acid at one time.....Is that just a myth?

You add as much muriatic acid as is needed to achieve the pH drop you need. If that is a quart, great. If that is a gallon, great. Just add it in a pencil sized stream at a pool return with the pump running. Brush the area after if you like.

 

[Texas Splash]

Remember that if you are using the PoolMath APP, you can go to settings and link APP test logs to TFP for easy viewing.

 

[jark87]

With high CH levels, you can also cut your pool water 1:1 with distilled water, do the test with that mixture, and then double the resulting CH you get from the test.

Genius! Thanks for that great tip!

 

[twowhlrcr]

Good Evening Everyone. Just a quick update.......

FC - 5.0
CC - 0
CYA - 80
PH - 7.2
TA - 90
CH - 550

First off, I was out of town for a few days....Added 96oz of 10% Bleach to get that FC back towards 10.

Pretty much everything you all have said has been true. I've been letting the PH get to 7.8 and then adding enough acid to bring it down to 7.2. That has the TA coming down.

The CH has dropped since the initial test. The CYA is up just a touch. Not sure on that one? I have NOT had any tabs in the pool since I first posted this.

Question, the card that comes with the Test Kit says I should aim for a TA of 100-120 but the App says 60-80. Thoughts?

Thanks again!

 

[wireform]

Leave the TA alone it's perfect where it is. Don't drop the PH to drastically and 7.6-7.8 is good as long as it doesn't swing too much. Your FC is low in accordance with the CYA/FC ratio and must be brought up immediately. Follow the CSI and as long as it's just negative of 0 you will be good.