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elizabeth.reed557

Member
Mar 26, 2024
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Fort Worth, TX
Hey yall! Fort Worth Texas here and just got our pool built. We have a cartridge filter pump, Jandy equipment. I’m getting overwhelmed with the care of it. I have a few questions if anyone wouldn’t mind helping. I have a list from my pool people where my target numbers should be.

1. We use slow release chlorine tablets. So when testing FH as long as keep tabs in the canister I’m fine. But if my chlorine is extremely slow thats when I would shock it? Meaning adding bleach?

2. The pH and TA should be aligned with each other typically right? Because they both are saying to add borax and one says baking soda. Aren’t those the same? Would I add what it says for each if they’re both off?? He has suggested muriatic acid to lower ph and ta and sodium bicarbonate to raise it.

3. For CYA it says just “liquid stabilizer” or “dry stabilizer”. What is that being used?

I have yet to do this myself. My build came with 1 month free and we have 1 more cleaning so I’m getting all my chems this weekend and I want to have a clear understanding before I start!

Helpppp! Thank you!! Attached is my personal notes and target levels for my pool!
 

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Welcome to TFP! :wave: Based on your initial questions I can tell we have a lot of TFP info to share. :) I'll help with a few starters, but be sure to bookmark and refer to our Pool Care Basics for tons of great info.

1 - Tabs are "okay" for short term use only. They increase the CYA (stabilizer) level quickly and can cause problems. They are also very acidic and can lower the pH/TA too much, so it requires careful testing. Also, we don't "shock" weekly or as you might hear at the pool store. If you maintain the FC-to-CYA ratio consistently as noted on the FC/CYA Levels there is no need for periodic FC increases.
2 - Refer to our What Are My Ideal Pool Levels? page for all levels. Again, accurate (home) testing is key. Be sure to download and use our PoolMath APP to help as well.
3 - Stabilizer (granular) or conditioner (liquid) are the same and they help to protect the chlorine from the sun's UV. An accurate CYA level is very important in the pool.
4 - Whenever the FC level gets too low and the tabs can't keep up, add some liquid chlorine.

Be warned of a builder's pool school, local free testing, or a weekly service. They are fly-by-night processes and you will not have quality water. Your #1 priority should be to order yourself a TF-Series test kit (link in my signature) or a Taylor K-2006C kit. Test your water at home. It's easy and you can be assured of accurate numbers. Anything else and you'll be spinning your wheels frustrated by other's input and poor advice.

With the links above and a proper test kit, you'll have a fantastic season. Come back here for any questions. We're happy to help.
 
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Also be sure to update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info. See my signature as an example and the link below to help. If you're on a phone device, you may need to tilt it sideways to see.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Texas Splash said:
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Based on your initial questions I can tell we have a lot of TFP info to share. :) I'll help with a few starters, but be sure to bookmark and refer to our Pool Care Basics for tons of great info.

1 - Tabs are "okay" for short term use only. They increase the CYA (stabilizer) level quickly and can cause problems. They are also very acidic and can lower the pH/TA too much, so it requires careful testing. Also, we don't "shock" weekly or as you might hear at the pool store. If you maintain the FC-to-CY ratio consistently as noted on the FC/CYA Levels there is no need for periodic FC increases.
2 - Refer to our What Are My Ideal Pool Levels? page for all levels. Again, accurate (home) testing is key. Be sure to download and use our PoolMath APP to help as well.
3 - Stabilizer (granular) or conditioner (liquid) are the same and they help to protect the chlorine from the sun's UV. An accurate CYA level is very important in the pool.

Be warned of a builder's pool school, local free testing, or a weekly service. They are fly-by-night processes and you will not have quality water. Your #1 priority should be to order yourself a TF-Series test kit (link in my signature) or a Taylor K-2006C kit. Test your water at home. It's easy and you can be assured of accurate numbers. Anything else and you'll be spinning your wheels frustrated by other's input and poor advice.

With the links above and a proper test kit, you'll have a fantastic season. Come back here for any questions. We're happy to help.
Click to expand...
Great. Thank you. When I do the FC/CYA ratio, it’s saying a target of 7-9. 7-9 what exactly? Chlorine tablets? Meaning minimum is what should be in my canister based on the target that was given to me of CYA (60). The ones I’ve been told to use are slow release. Also, I will add my signature now!
 
elizabeth.reed557 said:
When I do the FC/CYA ratio, it’s saying a target of 7-9. 7-9 what exactly? Chlorine tablets?
Click to expand...
To answer this question specifically, on the PoolMath when you enter your CYA, the APP tells you the ideal FC range level. That's for regular days (not algae). Most non-salt pools will use liquid chlorine through the season to maintain that ideal FC range. Again, tabs are dangerous in that they have side effects to your chemistry, so don't rely on them for very long at all. In the future, you might consider a salt water generator (SWG) to make the chlorine for you.

Here is a nice chart to refer to. You might find it easier to read.

full
 
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My current numbers are not in my app, if that’s what you are referring to. My current levels in my pool are at their needed levels as it just got serviced 2 days ago. I have yet to do any test myself as my builder does 1 month free of it. They come one more time then it’s on me so I’m just trying to get my ducks in a row and I’m sure as I do it myself I’ll understand it more.

What I’m gathering is you saying I would need to do the slam to get my levels up if it was at 20? We have a canister with slow release tablets in it currently and I do think k will continue to do that. But you’re suggesting dont use tablets at all?? Even slow release? My builder said to keep atleast 3-5 tablets in there at a time for now and more during summer.

Unfortunately I can’t see my CYA levels as they don’t test that, which is crazy lol! But I plan to purchase the test kit you suggested.
 
@elizabeth.reed557, is it Monday today? Because it feels like it. :crazy: I just noticed some of my posts above were posted in the wrong section. :hammer: I'm so sorry. Please forgive me. I got your thread confused with another pool (swamp green). But yes, tabs will slowly increase your CYA and that's fine for now. If/when your CYA hits 50, stop using them. If the FC falls too low, augment with liquid chlorine as needed to keep the FC at the proper level as noted on that chart above.

If you have anymore questions pleas ask. I'll try to keep my head straight from here on. :)
 
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Just to clarify, it does not appear you need to do the SLAM Process at this time. That's only if you have algae, and by reading above you simply had some level/chemical questions and not algae. Please dicsregard my comments above about the SLAM. I tried to clean-up my mess. Ugh.
 
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elizabeth.reed557 said:
2. The pH and TA should be aligned with each other typically right? Because they both are saying to add borax and one says baking soda. Aren’t those the same? Would I add what it says for each if they’re both off?? He has suggested muriatic acid to lower ph and ta and sodium bicarbonate to raise it.
Click to expand...
More about this question. Usually the pH tends to climb high over 7.8. When that happens, we use liquid muriatic acid to lower it. A pH anywhere between 7.2-7.8 is usually fine. You have LOTS of flexibility the TA. Don't try to force the TA to a specific number. It's main job is to provide stability to the pH. If your TA is anywhere between 60-90 you are in good shape. If the TA falls below 50, then raise it with some regular baking soda. I keep my TA around 50-60. If the TA is exceptionally high, let's say over 120, then muriatic acid will help to lower it over time.

Remember, tabs are acidic and they can pull a pH/TA down over time.
 
@elizabeth.reed557 Your first priority is getting a proper test kit. TF-Pro would be great (add the salt option if you're getting a SWCG).

Test Kits

tftestkits.net tftestkits.net

There are two viable long-term chlorination methods: liquid chlorine (LC) and salt water chlorine generator (SWCG). For the DFW area, I'd highly recommend getting a SWCG since it will be much cheaper and more convenient.

If you have a good test kit, SWCG, and an understanding of TFP methods, pool care is almost boring. It's like having the cheat codes to the game.
 
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