Taking over pool maintenance - a couple questions

[StcTX]

Moved into a house three years ago, and have had pool service since then, but I figured I would look into doing it myself since I WFH now. I know the chemicals are a bit out of whack due to puck usage, so it'll take some work, but I have a few questions.

Current readings: (I have a TF-100 kit, as well as the WaterGuru monitor. The WG monitor is really just something I'm using to compare against the TF100 results)

TC: >5 (TF100)
FC: 7.5 (TF100), 6.5 (WaterGuru) - I use CalHypo (non-stabilized) pucks in a floater as of about a week ago.
PH: 7.5 (TF100), 7.6 (WaterGuru) - I added muriatic acid about an hour ago. It was at an 8.3 on the WaterGuru.
CYA: ~100 (TF100), 117 (WaterGuru)
TA: 100, (TF100), 92 (WaterGuru)

- My CYA has been all over the place since we moved in, but always high. It's been as high as 140 according to TF kit, so I honestly don't know what's accurate. We don't get enough rain (San Antonio) to dilute it, so any water changes have just been filling it when it evaporates.

- My PH changes a LOT on the daily. We have a connected spa/pool so there's some spillover, which I've read can spike PH, but I'm adding acid seemingly every other day because it's getting high (according to WaterGuru). We also have a fountain that is turned on occasionally (maybe 2x week) and will cause surface disruption when it's on. Are these the culprit for PH variance?

- I'm getting some algae growth. Not sure which high/low number could be causing this.

Questions:

1. Can the above readings be considered accurate with the high CYA number? That's the first thing to be handled, right?

2. We want to re-plaster the pool and was thinking next year. Cost aside, should I just accelerate that timeline, and do it now while we won't be swimming, and just start from scratch on water chemistry?

3. My MAIN goal is to have a very low maintenance pool. Cost aside, would transitioning to a SWG make this much more low maintenance moving forward?


Thanks all! From my browsing, this is the most helpful community I've ever seen on the web. Let me know if there's any more information I need to provide.

 

[Newdude]

Hey STC and Welcome !!!!

Can the above readings be considered accurate with the high CYA number?

Yup. The only test skewed by another is that the PH is invalid at 10+ FC.

We want to re-plaster the pool and was thinking next year. Cost aside, should I just accelerate that timeline, and do it now while we won't be swimming, and just start from scratch on water chemistry?

If the budget allows, it's a reasonable option. But we fix pools on the daily here, so while it's your first rodeo, it's just another day at the office for us.

My MAIN goal is to have a very low maintenance pool. Cost aside, would transitioning to a SWG make this much more low maintenance moving forward?

10000% yes. SWGs are the bees knees. I often joke I take a 2 week staycation from pool care, every 2 weeks.

Your algae stems from lack of FC per your CYA level. The higher the CYA, the higher the FC needs to be. All levels below are equal.





You'll need to drain an even % to lower the CYA. 50% lowers it by half, etc. A 60 or 70 is entirely manageable, while not ideal.

You'll also likely need to SLAM Process.

Are these the culprit for PH variance?

Aeration is the biggest PH riser. How often does the spillover run? The twice a week waterfall isn't enough to matter.

this is the most helpful community I've ever seen on the web

THANKS for the kind words. We can't win em all but we sure try.

 

[StcTX]

If the budget allows, it's a reasonable option. But we fix pools on the daily here, so while it's your first rodeo, it's just another day at the office for us.

Got it. If I'm planning to re-plaster, and will need to replace the water anyway, it sounds like I should just do it now instead of balancing the water and then dumping/refilling. Since it'll take at least a 50% water-replacement (according to your CYA chart below), it seems silly to dump/refill half and then dump/refill all of it for plastering -- especially since we're not going to be swimming in it...right?

I mean, I can do the SLAM process, but should I just load up the chlorine to kill the algae (nobody will be swimming in it) in the meantime?

10000% yes. SWGs are the bees knees. I often joke I take a 2 week staycation from pool care, every 2 weeks.

That's what I like to hear. Is it a pretty simple transition? I won't be DIYing it, but I wonder what kind of overhaul I'm looking at. What all would I be replacing of my current equipment? I have a DE filter currently.

Aeration is the biggest PH riser. How often does the spillover run? The twice a week waterfall isn't enough to matter.

It runs when the pump runs, so about 12 hours a day. It's not a traditional spillover like a waterfall. I've added a picture to hopefully explain. The pump runs at 90% for 2.5 hours each morning and evening, and runs at 50% for the seven hours in between. You're currently looking at 50%. At 90%, it's a bit heavier flow with more surface disruption/aeration.

 

[Newdude]

it seems silly to dump/refill half and then dump/refill all of it for plastering -- especially since we're not going to be swimming in it...right?

Well. That depends on when you'll be replastering if it's next year. For Feb it would be a waste, but next fall wouldn't.

It's a good time now with many companies slowing down. If you're not first on the list when it gets busy again, you may wait a long time for your turn.

I can do the SLAM process, but should I just load up the chlorine to kill the algae

SLAM is a controlled process. 'Dump and pray' is the pool store method that keeps a line of newbs around the corner here. You'll want to lower the CYA first. Slamming at 90+ is nearly impossible with the insane amount of chlorine it needs.

Is it a pretty simple transition? I won't be DIYing it, but I wonder what kind of overhaul I'm looking at. What all would I be replacing of my current equipment? I have a DE filter currently.

You need some minor plumbing and electric work and everything else stays the same. Your variable speed pump will match well with it.

You'll want one rated 2X or 3X your pool volume as a 1X is rated for 24/7 operation. (2x needs 12 hrs, 3x needs 8 hrs, etc). They have a finite lifespan based on hours 'on' and larger units last longer respectively. But going bigger costs a fraction of the lifespan gained, so the ROI is great.

It runs when the pump runs, so about 12 hours a day.

Then that's the bulk of your PH rise. Set it to run twice a day for 15 mins, when not enjoying it.

 

[Bperry]

Got it. If I'm planning to re-plaster, and will need to replace the water anyway, it sounds like I should just do it now instead of balancing the water and then dumping/refilling. Since it'll take at least a 50% water-replacement (according to your CYA chart below), it seems silly to dump/refill half and then dump/refill all of it for plastering -- especially since we're not going to be swimming in it...right?

I mean, I can do the SLAM process, but should I just load up the chlorine to kill the algae (nobody will be swimming in it) in the meantime?




That's what I like to hear. Is it a pretty simple transition? I won't be DIYing it, but I wonder what kind of overhaul I'm looking at. What all would I be replacing of my current equipment? I have a DE filter currently.




It runs when the pump runs, so about 12 hours a day. It's not a traditional spillover like a waterfall. I've added a picture to hopefully explain. The pump runs at 90% for 2.5 hours each morning and evening, and runs at 50% for the seven hours in between. You're currently looking at 50%. At 90%, it's a bit heavier flow with more surface disruption/aeration.

I’d argue for practicing the water testing and balance now with plaster that your not worried about.

Only other additions would be:
1. watch out for the calhypo as that’ll spike your CH eventually and if you are switching to a SWCG anyway it’ll cause scale on that thing and the tile.

2. Get some chlorine in there ASAP.
3. Ignore the total chlorine test and the water guru thing.
4. Let your pH stay higher at 7.8. The farther your drive it down past 7.8 the faster it rises back up. It’s not a linear rise.

 

[StcTX]

I’d argue for practicing the water testing and balance now with plaster that your not worried about.

Only other additions would be:
1. watch out for the calhypo as that’ll spike your CH eventually and if you are switching to a SWCG anyway it’ll cause scale on that thing and the tile.

2. Get some chlorine in there ASAP.
3. Ignore the total chlorine test and the water guru thing.
4. Let your pH stay higher at 7.8. The farther your drive it down past 7.8 the faster it rises back up. It’s not a linear rise.

I got the CalHypo for the meantime so the CYA wasn't constantly climbing. I'm happy to use whatever is needed with a SWG. Is it liquid or powder or what? Are FC and PH the only things I really need to worry about on the daily (obviously assuming CYA is in check)?

 

[Newdude]

I'm happy to use whatever is needed with a SWG.

Assuming you get the SWG with the replaster, whatever you do now won't affect the swg. Post SWG, you'll want to keep your calcium in check. If you have room to spare 'in range', then calhypo would be fine to use, on the rare occurance you had to add FC. But if your CH was already above range, you'd want to avoid the calhypo with a SWG.

Liquid chlorine is always the easiest because it won't clump up on the floor and is guaranteed to be brushable. It also doesn't cloud the pool when you need a bunch of it.

Are FC and PH the only things I really need to worry about on the daily (obviously assuming CYA is in check)?

Yup. The other parameters won't change much and you can test them weekly, until you prove they hold weekly. Then you can go 2 weeks in between.

Remember that the PH test is invalid at 10 or more FC. You want 9.5 or less when testing PH.

 

[Bperry]

I got the CalHypo for the meantime so the CYA wasn't constantly climbing. I'm happy to use whatever is needed with a SWG. Is it liquid or powder or what? Are FC and PH the only things I really need to worry about on the daily (obviously assuming CYA is in check)?

Yes.

The TC test is redundant if you are already checking FC. The TC test isn’t all that accurate anyway.