Hey all. I'm somewhat new to pool chemistry/pump/etc., (a few years experience with those 2500 gallon vinyl Walmart specials plus my 2nd year on our current 13k gallon above ground). The current pool is a 24' 13k gallon pool with a 1600gph pump and a DE filter (that takes about 4lb of DE).
For years I used a k2007 test kit but y'all convinced me (rightfully so) to upgrae to a T-100 which I love. I have a few very random questions that really probably fit until more than one "forum" category
We live in southwest Ohio. Our pool temps rarely drop below 84 degrees. Last bunch of water readings were 87, 85, 86, 80, 82, 81, 82, 81. Those later ones were the result of the solar cover (but churning from the pump helps ensure it's somewhat accurate and not JUST the top 6 inches of water). The pool gets very little shade. I use the Pool Math app to track everything.
TA
The question: Do you I keep adding muriatic acid (and pH up) to bring the TA down, discard the T-100's result on the TA, buy new #9 reagent, etc.,
Explanation
My TA levels in k2007 consistently read 150-170 and have the last 2 years. All other parameters are currently (finally) in check. Chlorine 3ppm, CYA 40ppm, pH 7.55. When I bought the T-100 two weeks ago the TA readings have shown 250-270, consistenly, three different times. A very helpful member of this forum responded in anoither post saying those numbers should come down some aftera couple of weeks. So far they haven't. I'm beginnin to wonder if the k2007 was wrong. Last night I tried the #8 reagent from the k2007 but the #9 from the T-100 (I was out of the #9 from the 2007 kit) still took 20 drops to change it to red. Wiping with a damp cloth in between doesn't change this. To get the TA even down to 200 from 250 took 3/4 a gallon of muriatic acid the day before. This brought the TA down but (obviously) dropped the pH to where it should be. More MA will result in me playing with pH up. OR, I could forget the TA and trust it'll equalize now that the pH is in check (for the first time in the last two days this season).
pH meter
When I bought the T100 I bought the pH digital meter which I love. With the black cap on do you think it's okay to store the meter in the same box as the T-100kit? Not sure if the "chemical environment" with the reagents inside would affect (uncalibatre - new word) the node on the meter or not
Chlorine Distribution
I have a horrible reputation for just a "tiny" bit of liquid shock to splash on my clothes. That's all it takes to ruin them. I've gotten much better at not bein a moron when I add shock but wondered if it was safe to very slowly pour the chlorine in front of the pool return jet if that was a safe route to distribute the shock in the pool. While keeping a very close eye on my CYA levels I would prefer for the 3" tablets to be the primary chlorine source but it's not quite enough.
Pump Explosion
The question: is it safe to place the 3" tablet in the skimmer's intake housing (not the basket) or will this create undo strain on the pump given the 3.5ppm test I did on the water coming from the pump?
Disregardin the slight exaggeration of this (pump explosion) I was curious about the tablets. The floating chlorinator takes a week to disolve these suckers (and tethering the chlorinator a foot from the return jet doesn't do anything). I've heard various opinions on whether or not it's okay to put the tablet in the skimmer basket. I've heard this can add undo strain to the pump. However, I did a little test the other day. I took a samle of clean water from the filter's pressure release valve (post pump, pre return-jet).. With the chlorine tablet in the basket it read 3.5ppm. It seems this wouldn't be a very significant strain on the pump, then. I even moved the tablet to the skimmer's inlet (outside the basekt but inside the skimmer housing right next to the pool wall itself). This distanced the tablet from the skimmer basket and reduced (signifcantly) the amount of water flowing "over" the tablet, further diluting the concentration of chlorine going into the basket. Is it safe to leave the tablet where it is?
Sorry for the length.
Thanks for your input!
For years I used a k2007 test kit but y'all convinced me (rightfully so) to upgrae to a T-100 which I love. I have a few very random questions that really probably fit until more than one "forum" category
We live in southwest Ohio. Our pool temps rarely drop below 84 degrees. Last bunch of water readings were 87, 85, 86, 80, 82, 81, 82, 81. Those later ones were the result of the solar cover (but churning from the pump helps ensure it's somewhat accurate and not JUST the top 6 inches of water). The pool gets very little shade. I use the Pool Math app to track everything.
TA
The question: Do you I keep adding muriatic acid (and pH up) to bring the TA down, discard the T-100's result on the TA, buy new #9 reagent, etc.,
Explanation
My TA levels in k2007 consistently read 150-170 and have the last 2 years. All other parameters are currently (finally) in check. Chlorine 3ppm, CYA 40ppm, pH 7.55. When I bought the T-100 two weeks ago the TA readings have shown 250-270, consistenly, three different times. A very helpful member of this forum responded in anoither post saying those numbers should come down some aftera couple of weeks. So far they haven't. I'm beginnin to wonder if the k2007 was wrong. Last night I tried the #8 reagent from the k2007 but the #9 from the T-100 (I was out of the #9 from the 2007 kit) still took 20 drops to change it to red. Wiping with a damp cloth in between doesn't change this. To get the TA even down to 200 from 250 took 3/4 a gallon of muriatic acid the day before. This brought the TA down but (obviously) dropped the pH to where it should be. More MA will result in me playing with pH up. OR, I could forget the TA and trust it'll equalize now that the pH is in check (for the first time in the last two days this season).
pH meter
When I bought the T100 I bought the pH digital meter which I love. With the black cap on do you think it's okay to store the meter in the same box as the T-100kit? Not sure if the "chemical environment" with the reagents inside would affect (uncalibatre - new word) the node on the meter or not
Chlorine Distribution
I have a horrible reputation for just a "tiny" bit of liquid shock to splash on my clothes. That's all it takes to ruin them. I've gotten much better at not bein a moron when I add shock but wondered if it was safe to very slowly pour the chlorine in front of the pool return jet if that was a safe route to distribute the shock in the pool. While keeping a very close eye on my CYA levels I would prefer for the 3" tablets to be the primary chlorine source but it's not quite enough.
Pump Explosion
The question: is it safe to place the 3" tablet in the skimmer's intake housing (not the basket) or will this create undo strain on the pump given the 3.5ppm test I did on the water coming from the pump?
Disregardin the slight exaggeration of this (pump explosion) I was curious about the tablets. The floating chlorinator takes a week to disolve these suckers (and tethering the chlorinator a foot from the return jet doesn't do anything). I've heard various opinions on whether or not it's okay to put the tablet in the skimmer basket. I've heard this can add undo strain to the pump. However, I did a little test the other day. I took a samle of clean water from the filter's pressure release valve (post pump, pre return-jet).. With the chlorine tablet in the basket it read 3.5ppm. It seems this wouldn't be a very significant strain on the pump, then. I even moved the tablet to the skimmer's inlet (outside the basekt but inside the skimmer housing right next to the pool wall itself). This distanced the tablet from the skimmer basket and reduced (signifcantly) the amount of water flowing "over" the tablet, further diluting the concentration of chlorine going into the basket. Is it safe to leave the tablet where it is?
Sorry for the length.
Thanks for your input!
