Since I’ll finally be going away from the chlorine tablets, what’s the best way to keep CYA level w/ salt water pool?
Switching from Chlorine to Mineral Springs or Salt
- Thread starter hokiejaws07
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,811
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Add dry stabilizer using the sock method when necessary.
Add the salt test to the test kit you have - TF-100 Salt Test Kit
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,811
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Use granular stabilizer to bring up your CYA levels via the sock method hanging in front of a return. Don't add it all at once but rather in parts and wait a few days to measure it so you won't overshoot.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,811
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I like Morton’s Diamond Crystal, or Aquasalt. Stay away from Clorox at any price.
Some folks use water softener salt as long as it is pure with no additives.
Salt - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Regular water softener salt with the yellow or blue label by Morton or diamond crystal and either the pellets or the salt crystals as they are one in the same just different configuration. Here again you need to know the salinity of the water before you add as you may have much higher salinity in the water from chlorine then you think. Don't add all the salt at once and check 24-48 hours later with pump running what actual salinity is present. Overshooting is a drain refill kind of thing so creep up to whatever the target is. SWCG needs to be OFF for 24 hours after the salt has been dumped in the water.
Worth converting now a month or so prior to closing or wait until the spring when we open?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,811
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Is the TF-100 Salt test better than they Taylor one? Same thing? And is their a “pro” version since I am using the TF-Pro Test Kit?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,811
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Both tests are identical. Just one has the Taylor brand.
Pro test kit is the same tests just different bottles and case.
So I don’t know need to buy an entire new kit, right? I can just add either the Taylor or TF Salt tester?
I don’t think the TF-Pro has anymore room in it for the salt test. Do most people just leave that out of the storage?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,811
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Correct.
Dunno. I have an old kit. The Taylor K-1766 test comes in a small box.
I originally bought the TF-Pro w/out the salt. I’m not in front of my kit now, but from my memory, there are no empty spots in it.
I am converting to salt in the spring though.
Just checked my TF-Pro kit and I don’t have any open slots for the salt test items.
reggiehammond
Gold Supporter
- Oct 4, 2020
- 1,509
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I don’t have the TF Pro, but I made room by chunking the OTO FC test reagent and something else I can’t recall off top of my head.
Update: oh, I took the CYA test items out and moved them to a separate bag as I test CYA much less frequently.
Update: oh, I took the CYA test items out and moved them to a separate bag as I test CYA much less frequently.