No. The OP asked if CYA was needed at all.
I don't think we can really determine if he needs to raise CYA until he knows* what his CYA level is. For that, he needs a test kit.
* Right now, I gather he thinks it's zero.
SWG system- why add CYA?
- Thread starter shoot-straight
- Start date
No. The OP asked if CYA was needed at all.
I don't think we can really determine if he needs to raise CYA until he knows* what his CYA level is. For that, he needs a test kit.
* Right now, I gather he thinks it's zero.
Ok, Im back after reading alot. The main reason most say i need stabilizer is my cell will wear out quicker. Everything i have read says that when your CYA increases, you need more FC. My pool is beautiful, at 50% of SWG level and very low FC levels according to my strip tests, maybe 1 or so. If i go to 80 CYA, according to this site, i will need to up that to 4-6. So would i have to turn my dial up? That seems counterproductive on the SWG life argument. OR- will the UV protection of putting in the CYA save me that much chlorine i can actually turn it down.
heyward- who is my SWG manufacturer says 1-3 for FC is reccomended.
heyward- who is my SWG manufacturer says 1-3 for FC is reccomended.
I would raise to recommend FC using liquid bleach - after adding the CYA and leave my dial as is. You probably will be able to turn it down some because not as much FC will be burned off by the sun...I turned mine down about 10% when I went from 30 cya to 70, but there are other influences as well like the water temperature. You need a proper test kit to verify.
SWG and a TFTestKit makes managing a pool extremely simple
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SWG and a TFTestKit makes managing a pool extremely simple
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You need a test kit, whether or not you plan on adding CYA.
Strips are virtually useless.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You will be able to turn it down.
Most chlorine loss in a private pool is from the sun and without CYA your pool is losing almost all of the FC due to the sun. Just because a pool has a higher FC number doesn't mean it uses more FC.
Most chlorine loss in a private pool is from the sun and without CYA your pool is losing almost all of the FC due to the sun. Just because a pool has a higher FC number doesn't mean it uses more FC.
shoot-straight,
It seems you are on this forum to make us prove that what we say works. Tens of thousands of pool owners have already beat you to it....sorry.
I have read this entire thread and it seems you have no interest in learning what we teach but are very interested in the argument.
The argument is not the purpose of this forum. If you do not like the true message you are receiving, I ask that you not shoot the messenger.
Please manage your pool the way you know best....we never force anyone to learn what we know.
It seems you are on this forum to make us prove that what we say works. Tens of thousands of pool owners have already beat you to it....sorry.
I have read this entire thread and it seems you have no interest in learning what we teach but are very interested in the argument.
The argument is not the purpose of this forum. If you do not like the true message you are receiving, I ask that you not shoot the messenger.
Please manage your pool the way you know best....we never force anyone to learn what we know.
You are missing the point. Yes, you will need a higher FC level initially, which is why you use bleach to reach that starting point. But once you are there, the amount of chlorine you have to replace every day will be less, because the extra CYA protects it from being burned off by the sun as quickly. So long term, your SWG doesn't have to work as hard to keep it at that level.
Your pool will consume a given amount of chlorine each day. That amount will be more or less the same, regardless of how much chlorine is in the pool overall, as long as some minimum level is maintained. So you might as well start higher in order to reduce the amount lost and needing to be replaced each day.
Your pool will consume a given amount of chlorine each day. That amount will be more or less the same, regardless of how much chlorine is in the pool overall, as long as some minimum level is maintained. So you might as well start higher in order to reduce the amount lost and needing to be replaced each day.
Right now your SWG is working extra hard just to trying to keep it where it's running. Once you get the CYA in there, it won't have to work so hard and you should be able to turn it down. I run mine on 15%.
Get a good kit and you'll be miles ahead.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
On a full sunny day - turn off the SWC (pump on though) around 11:00 AM. Raise FC to 5 ppm with liquid chlorine. Test again at noon. If it's 2.5 ppm or less, you have no CYA. If it's still 4ish you must have significant CYA still in the pool.
Get a test kit! Follow advice. If someone gives bad advice here, the experts hop in and fix it. Happy Swimming!
Get a test kit! Follow advice. If someone gives bad advice here, the experts hop in and fix it. Happy Swimming!
This!!!! Also where is Chemgeek? ?
8,400 gal 3K GPH pump, SWG CG-28669, TF100 test kit, speed stir, K-1766 Taylor salt test.
The corner stone of TFP
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Im not sure youre getting the full picture from your reading so I'm going to try to paint it
The reason you need some cya in general terms, swg or not, is that in addition to buffering FC it also RESERVES FC for residual use in cases where there is a sudden high demand (intense sun, urine loss, bacterial contamination) or erroneous drop in FC...eg in the case of swg malfunction, cell age over time, power outage, etc.
The problem here is that without a proper test kit, you have no idea right now what your cya REALLY is to debate what level you run things at, or reliably predict that people who swim in your pool are protected from transmission of waterborne pathogens, particularly if swimming at night with swg off, where swimmer load can easily consume the FC if kept so low.
So the question of whether you can run at 50 or run at 70 is academic without testing, to my mind
Check out TFTestkits.net for a tft100 or Taylor k2006.Once you know your accurate water parameters, and have the ability to reliably test, you're in a better position to experiment with run time, levels, etc.
If you prefer to run at 50% production at a low cya than say 10% or 20% production for the same 18 hours, that's totally your call. But you'd have to clean your cell less often, or replace it less often, if you were running it at a lower percentage of production.
Your concern about running a higher FC level in accordance with a higher CYA level though in practice might not be the way you're thinking.
Eg at 70 ppm cya with a run target of 3-5 pm per TFP reccs for swg, in terms of production once the FC level is established only takes the generation of about 1.5 ppm per day in my pool, which would be I think about half your % production if I were running your 18 hours.
I don't know the gallonage of your pool, but we're both running an aquarite t15 so your maximum capacity of chlorine gas production is around 1.5 lbs daily...using pool math, you can calculate how many ppms of production that is for the gallonage in your pool. My rough guess would be that you're using more capacity to produce chlorine than I am to keep yours on the edge of 1 ppm, while mine is at a safer 5 ppm - I'll be fine if the power he's out, my nephew pees in my pool, or my elderly guest shares cdiff or crypto or giradasis.
Because in terms of maintenance (mine starting at 5, yours starting at 1) you will have constant loss from burn off at lower cya, while I will have considerably less actual loss.
Make sense?
Keeping FC at 5 with 70 cya in my case requires production of about 1.5 ppm daily, about 15%-18% of production capacity on the t15, which in my 23,000 pool has a production capacity of 7.8 ppm.
Hope that gives you a different way to look at it. But seriously, get a test kit, and then lets compare notes