Hey guys, hate to beat a dead horse. My Hayward T-cell-15 is reading 0000 salt and low salt , check salt of course. I’ve done an acid cleaning and found nothing in it. I’m currently checking the diag numbers now. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thx!
SWG Reading 0000 salt
- Thread starter Sloan221
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,878
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
www.troublefreepool.com
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Welcome to the forum! 
Do you have a salt test kit so you can see what the true salinity is? That would be the next step toward diagnosing things as well. Post your equipment specs in the signature it will give us a better idea of what you have to provide recommendations
www.troublefreepool.com
And give us the age of your SWG Cell and controller. If you can provide a pic of the serial we can figure out the age and what not.
Do you have a salt test kit so you can see what the true salinity is? That would be the next step toward diagnosing things as well. Post your equipment specs in the signature it will give us a better idea of what you have to provide recommendations
Create Your Signature - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
And give us the age of your SWG Cell and controller. If you can provide a pic of the serial we can figure out the age and what not.
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.
Report all readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
What is the T-cell size?
Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?
To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.
For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.
However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.
Anything over 75% is acceptable.
At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.
The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).
You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.
You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.
K-1766 Taylor Salt Test
Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.
However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.
Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:
Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.
When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
Then, press + again and note the new readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.
Report all readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
What is the T-cell size?
Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?
To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.
For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.
However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.
Anything over 75% is acceptable.
At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.
The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).
You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.
You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.
K-1766 Taylor Salt Test
Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.
However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.
Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:
Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.
When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
Then, press + again and note the new readings.
SWG was installed in 2014. I tested the salinity there is way to much in it. I put bags in it cause the reading on the display said low. However it wasn’t. There is 3800-4000 ppm in it now.Welcome to the forum!
Do you have a salt test kit so you can see what the true salinity is? That would be the next step toward diagnosing things as well. Post your equipment specs in the signature it will give us a better idea of what you have to provide recommendations
Create Your Signature - Further Reading
And give us the age of your SWG Cell and controller. If you can provide a pic of the serial we can figure out the age and what not.
Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.
When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
Then, press + again and note the new readings.
When the new numbers appear, see what they are.
Then, press + again and note the new readings.
Thank you, I tested the salinity with a test step. It’s high around 4000ppm. SWG was installed in 2014.Welcome to the forum!
Do you have a salt test kit so you can see what the true salinity is? That would be the next step toward diagnosing things as well. Post your equipment specs in the signature it will give us a better idea of what you have to provide recommendations
Create Your Signature - Further Reading
And give us the age of your SWG Cell and controller. If you can provide a pic of the serial we can figure out the age and what not.
Attachments
Based on the age of the cell and the readings, I suspect that the cell is most likely bad.
There might be a damaged solder point on the back of the board if you want to pull the circuit board and check it, but I think that it is probably just a bad cell.
There might be a damaged solder point on the back of the board if you want to pull the circuit board and check it, but I think that it is probably just a bad cell.
I actually pulled the circuit board and looked. Didn’t see anything burnt or lose. Checked the relays moved them with my fingers. Didn’t see anything. I’m guessing the cell is bad especially Considering the age. Wanted to gets y’all’s opinion before i forked out 650+ on a née one.
WhitB08
Well-known member
What did you end up ordering? I’m in the exact same situation today and those cells aren’t that easy to find.
Hayward AquaRite Replacement T-CELL-15, 40,000 Gal Pool, TurboCell, Model W3T-CELL-15 - INYOPools.com
Looking for a replacement cell for your AquaRite salt pool chlorine generator? Consider the Hayward T-Cell-15 replacement cell! This reliable and durable cell is designed to provide long-lasting performance and efficient chlorine generation for your pool. With easy installation and low...
www.inyopools.com
- Jun 14, 2017
- 64
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hey James,
I have an Aqua-Rite SWG with T-15 cell. I have went through the procedure you described above but I don't see my unit switching polarity to a negative voltage/amperage when I switch the unit to off (wait) and then back to auto. The voltage and amperage are always positive values. Diagnostics with unit on/generating and unit off are below:
On/Generating
Avg Salt - 3100
Temp - 84
Voltage - 25.5
Amps - 6.34
% Output - 75P
Instant salt - -3100
AL-0
r 1.58
T-15
Off
Avg Salt - 3100
Temp - 84
Voltage - 32.9
Amps - 0
% Output - 75P
Instant salt - -0
AL-0
r 1.58
T-15
I believe my cell is working correctly, but pool turned cloudy/borderline green while I was on vacation and I had my Dad start a SLAM until I could get back and deal with it. It's odd that all water chemistry was on target when I left and had been solid for weeks leading up to vacay. I will say, we did receive a bunch of rain while I was away and he had to drain some water from the pool to get level back into the skimmer. But test results when I got back were still within range except for high FC and slightly lower CYA (~55ppm) due to having him start the SLAM. I normally run my pump and SWG full-time at ~25P output on SWG run time. I had added a bag of salt to bump it up to 3400 due to forecasted rain and even bumped the SWG output up to ~30P just to ensure he didn't have to worry about.
Model/serial number on aqua-rite is AQ-RITE 5A0602-1015507. T-15 cell was replaced ~3 years ago. I don't have a salt test kit but ordered a Taylor K-1766 from TFT to be able to monitor myself and check cell performance as you describe above. I have always relied on the reading from the generator diagnostics and periodic trip to pool store to cross check on their salinity meter.
The numbers look good.
The polarity does not show on the screen.
Check the performance of the cell.
The polarity does not show on the screen.
Check the performance of the cell.
- Jun 14, 2017
- 64
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Thanks
will do once I receive my salt test kit (ordered it yesterday). So with my voltage/amps in same range when I run the test, it's safe to assume it is switching polarity as it supposed too?
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
The controller switches polarity on each generation cycle automatically. Turning it off and on again forces it to switch polarity, because you a forcing a new gen cycle. The only way to really see it is if you have a meter on the circuit. But one of the symptoms of a cell that is failing is the voltages will be radically different when it switches polarity. That is the reason for that test.Thanks