You are on the right track. If there is some staining elevated chlorine level and brushing will take care of it.
Surface algae on walls
- Thread starter jeffbrig
- Start date
Doing great! So glad to see it coming along nicely! Don't get *too* lazy with your testing, even if it is holding really good. Be mindful and I'm sure you'll be fine. You can look back at your last few tests to see how fast it is being used.
- Sep 24, 2014
- 154
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I haven't shaken all the algae just yet, but the new return eyeball is installed. Had to wait till today so I could get in the pool. Slip fittings, so I had to put it in, and give it a few gentle taps with a hammer (underwater) to secure it fully. Oh my, the difference in flow is staggering. I can see ripples of water movement on the surface halfway across the pool. Where before I had a barely visible circulation, now I could easily measure the counterclockwise flow in inches per second by surface detritus flow by.
I'm hoping this makes a big difference in the algae. Water remains super clear, but vertical walls on one side are still trying to grow surface algae. Scrubbed again just now, and added more chlorine. We'll see what happens with the added flow.
I'm hoping this makes a big difference in the algae. Water remains super clear, but vertical walls on one side are still trying to grow surface algae. Scrubbed again just now, and added more chlorine. We'll see what happens with the added flow.
If this still isn't enough, consider the aiming with PVC suggestion earlier, to achieve circulation in that dead zone. That being said, brushing among which proper SLAM technique could be enough. Test and add at least twice a day.
- Sep 24, 2014
- 154
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Well, I'm back to having a clean pool...finally.
Spent over a week dosing to shock level, watching the pool clear, only to see algae return when CL came back down. I even passed an OCLT, but as soon as I let the chlorine fall, I started seeing the same stuff return. Water column has been clear throughout. Just light surface algae in certain areas.
While getting more chlorine on Saturday, I talked with my pool store (mom & pop, and they seem genuinely decent). They recommended a "yellow out" type treatment. I actually had a partial bottle of this at home, from an algae outbreak right after buying my house, before discovering TFP. I was a little skeptical to add an unknown substance from a magic bottle, so I went home to do some reading. It's NaBr. When do they recommend you use it? To treat mustard algae. So I did some reading about mustard algae. Chlorine resistant - interesting. Grows on walls, particularly in shaded areas - check. Goes away at shock level, but quickly reappears when you lower FC - check. Hmm...maybe I am dealing with the beginnings of a mustard algae outbreak?
Well, with the Memorial Day BBQ and pool party planned for next Sunday, I decided to take plunge and try the NaBr. I added 4 capfulls as directed on Saturday evening, brushed everything down real good. Well, I woke up this morning to no traces of algae left in the pool. Brushed everything down again. Added a gallon of chlorine. Did the same again tonight. I may hit it hard again tomorrow. Or see how that goes at least...my (admittedly limited) understanding is that the Br in the water will soak up chlorine for the near future. But I'm very happy to see clean blue walls all the way around the pool! Even if I did stray a bit from the bleach/chlorine method.
Spent over a week dosing to shock level, watching the pool clear, only to see algae return when CL came back down. I even passed an OCLT, but as soon as I let the chlorine fall, I started seeing the same stuff return. Water column has been clear throughout. Just light surface algae in certain areas.
While getting more chlorine on Saturday, I talked with my pool store (mom & pop, and they seem genuinely decent). They recommended a "yellow out" type treatment. I actually had a partial bottle of this at home, from an algae outbreak right after buying my house, before discovering TFP. I was a little skeptical to add an unknown substance from a magic bottle, so I went home to do some reading. It's NaBr. When do they recommend you use it? To treat mustard algae. So I did some reading about mustard algae. Chlorine resistant - interesting. Grows on walls, particularly in shaded areas - check. Goes away at shock level, but quickly reappears when you lower FC - check. Hmm...maybe I am dealing with the beginnings of a mustard algae outbreak?
Well, with the Memorial Day BBQ and pool party planned for next Sunday, I decided to take plunge and try the NaBr. I added 4 capfulls as directed on Saturday evening, brushed everything down real good. Well, I woke up this morning to no traces of algae left in the pool. Brushed everything down again. Added a gallon of chlorine. Did the same again tonight. I may hit it hard again tomorrow. Or see how that goes at least...my (admittedly limited) understanding is that the Br in the water will soak up chlorine for the near future. But I'm very happy to see clean blue walls all the way around the pool! Even if I did stray a bit from the bleach/chlorine method.
Watch your FC very closely for the next week. Yellow out is an ammonia based product that can create an extreme chlorine demand in the pool.
Great comment Tim! Given the suspicion of mustard algae and the ammonia concern, do you think he should follow the slam then mustard slam protocol?
probably not a bad idea. 4 capfuls is a small amount of ammonia, but the SLAM/mustard SLAM plus extra brushing in that area would assure elimination of the mustard algae.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,440
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Gentlemen,
He did not use an EDTA based algaecide, the OP used a sodium bromide based algaecide.
To the OP,
You must be very careful with NaBr based algaecides. Bromide in a chlorinated swimming pool will create a constant FC demand higher than the normal demand caused by UV loss. That demand is related to the concentration of bromide in your water as bromide is oxidized by chlorine back into bromine. As the bromine disinfects, it gets reduced to bromide and the cycle repeats itself. Too much NaBr and the chlorine loss will increase. The problem is, there is no way to test for bromine separately from chlorine so you'll never really know if you have sufficient FC levels in your water.
The only way to remove bromine is through water exchange/replacement. TFP has a SLAM procedure for mustard algae that you should try first if the algae returns as it does not involve the use of any algaecides.
He did not use an EDTA based algaecide, the OP used a sodium bromide based algaecide.
To the OP,
You must be very careful with NaBr based algaecides. Bromide in a chlorinated swimming pool will create a constant FC demand higher than the normal demand caused by UV loss. That demand is related to the concentration of bromide in your water as bromide is oxidized by chlorine back into bromine. As the bromine disinfects, it gets reduced to bromide and the cycle repeats itself. Too much NaBr and the chlorine loss will increase. The problem is, there is no way to test for bromine separately from chlorine so you'll never really know if you have sufficient FC levels in your water.
The only way to remove bromine is through water exchange/replacement. TFP has a SLAM procedure for mustard algae that you should try first if the algae returns as it does not involve the use of any algaecides.
- Sep 24, 2014
- 154
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Matt,
Thanks for sharing the details on bromine. I will keep a close eye on my chlorine demand and see what's happening. If I'm understanding you, you're saying that when I do my FC test on the TF-100, some portion of that will be reflecting the presence of bromine, and not just chlorine. So I will not be sure what portion of that measured FC reflects actual chlorine? But since bromine is also a sanitizing agent, it stands to reason that I should be able keep the pool clean and safe by keeping the measured FC at the high end of the recommended range, but under shock level.
From the reading I did, my understanding is that bromine is generally not used in outdoor pools because it cannot be stabilized like chlorine with CYA. It tends to break down in full sun (albeit slower than unstabilized chlorine). My pool is the poster child for full sun (east-west orientation, no trees), so hopefully the small amount of bromine I added will be relatively short lived.
Time to go home and rinse out the filter...
Thanks for sharing the details on bromine. I will keep a close eye on my chlorine demand and see what's happening. If I'm understanding you, you're saying that when I do my FC test on the TF-100, some portion of that will be reflecting the presence of bromine, and not just chlorine. So I will not be sure what portion of that measured FC reflects actual chlorine? But since bromine is also a sanitizing agent, it stands to reason that I should be able keep the pool clean and safe by keeping the measured FC at the high end of the recommended range, but under shock level.
From the reading I did, my understanding is that bromine is generally not used in outdoor pools because it cannot be stabilized like chlorine with CYA. It tends to break down in full sun (albeit slower than unstabilized chlorine). My pool is the poster child for full sun (east-west orientation, no trees), so hopefully the small amount of bromine I added will be relatively short lived.
Time to go home and rinse out the filter...
- Sep 24, 2014
- 154
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Thought it was worth an update, and some pics. Pool is absolutely crystal clear. That bromine absolutely annihilated whatever was growing on the sides. I have had a lot of chlorine demand (especially earlier in the week) from the bromine, so had I known that going in, I would not do the bromine treatment. Lesson learned! But, I think it's slowing down. After a nighttime swim, I dosed about 3/4 gal of chlorine yesterday, and tested 13ppm FC before bed. That was higher than I expected based on the trend during the week. When I went outside around 9am (sun already up), I retested and still had 12ppm. CC was barely present, cleared in 1 drop (<.5ppm). So it's safe to conclude there is no algae in my pool right now.
Pics? Here's where I installed the missing return eyeball. Not quite flush to the wall, but good enough. Note the vortex swirl in the water! I have plenty of flow now.
Here's a daytime shot of the pool:
And at night with the pump off to show water clarity.
Pics? Here's where I installed the missing return eyeball. Not quite flush to the wall, but good enough. Note the vortex swirl in the water! I have plenty of flow now.
Here's a daytime shot of the pool:
And at night with the pump off to show water clarity.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,440
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Glad to hear and see it worked out for you.
Yes, the FAS-DPD test will show both contributions from chlorine and bromine. Both will sanitize. The bromine will slowly decrease over time as you backwash your filter and get water replaced from splash out.
Sodium bromide is a very effective algaecide BUT, as you can see, it has lots of downsides that make its consistent use in pools very problematic. It's really considered an algaecide of last resort because it causes so many other issues.
Yes, the FAS-DPD test will show both contributions from chlorine and bromine. Both will sanitize. The bromine will slowly decrease over time as you backwash your filter and get water replaced from splash out.
Sodium bromide is a very effective algaecide BUT, as you can see, it has lots of downsides that make its consistent use in pools very problematic. It's really considered an algaecide of last resort because it causes so many other issues.
Great post, Matt.
OP, I scanned this thread but did not read every word. I hope you are brushing the algae off your walls very regularly. Without brushing the algae you are experiencing will most always grow right back. Brush it and stir it up into that chlorinated water so the chlorine can kill it!
- Sep 24, 2014
- 154
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Dave, the algae is all gone now. Sadly, I nuked it with a bromine treatment prior to realizing there was a special SLAM procedure for mustard algae. Next time....wait, hopefully there won't be a next time.