Sue from FL in Baqua-heck

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Okay, at 8 AM this morning I got a TC reading of 12 using the dilution method. There was no color change so I think CC is 0. I added a quart of chlorine to bring it up to 15 again.

Do I need to continue raising the chlorine today? I won't be able to change the filter until tomorrow or Friday.
 
If you are still losing 3ppm over night and havent changed the filter media, its my opinion that you should continue to hold it at 15ppm until you can change the filter out.

You would be suprised how fast the remnants of baquacrap can eat up chlorine.
 
It held the chlorine overnight! I didn't add any this morning. I'll post the other numbers around noon. We should be getting the new filter tonight but probably won't be able to hook it up until tomorrow.
 
Okay, here are my numbers. Used the OTO test (undiluted) since my drops did not arrive today as I had hoped.

TC 3
pH 7.4
TA 240
CH 170
CYA 0 (not tested)

Filter change will be tomorrow. Is there anything I should do before then?

Just ordered the Intex SWG so will be planning to use that when it arrives. I don't know if it makes a difference in what I might need to do from this point.
 
There is nothing pressing that needs doing right away. Keep the TC level at 2 or higher if at all possible. If your CYA is really zero that may not be possible, but if your CYA is really zero you only need to keep it at 1 or higher.

After you replace the filter you want to get your CYA to be between 30 and 50 right away. Long term you will want to bring your TA down, particuarly if you are getting a SWG. Without the SWG your high TA won't make that much of a difference. But with a SWG it will tend to push your PH up fairly quickly.
 
Thanks. I was wondering about the high TA. Will it cause any irritation at that level? From reading here I understand that aeration is the only way to reduce TA... is that right? Muriatic acid does not affect it at all?

I'm heading out to do some shopping... thought I would stop at a pool store and get a test there just to double check against my tests.
 
Acid drops the TA down along with the PH. Aeration will bring the PH up as well. Cycles of acid-aeration, acid-aerate will get you to decent levels.
 
Does muriatic acid go bad? We have a bottle of it that was in our shed when we moved here 9 years go. Wondering if I should use it or buy new.

Edit: Google is your friend.
"7. HANDLING AND STORAGE
STORAGE TEMPERATURE (MIN/MAX): Ambient/Ambient
SHELF LIFE: Unlimited in tightly closed containers.
SPECIAL SENSITIVITY: None known
HANDLING?STORAG PRECAUTIONS.....Keep container tightly closed when not in use. Hydrochloric acid should be handled and stored in equipment suitable designed for acid services. Store in a cool, dry place in original or similar waterproof containers."
http://www.pp.msu.edu/cust/Safety/MSDS_ ... icAcid.htm
 

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Well I stopped at the pool store to get a water test and those guys freaked out when they heard how I converted from Baquacil. They tested for Baq. and insisted I still have a small amount in my water and warned me repeatedly that I'd better drain half my water before doing anything else.

Could it have come from the bottle I used? It was the same bottle I used to use for Baquacil, but I rinsed it out 3 times.

Anyway, here are the test results they gave me. TA is quite a bit different from what I got.

pH 7.4
TC 0.5
FC 0.5
TA 150
CYA 0
CH 150
Langlier Index -0.02
No minerals
 
MeSue said:
Could it have come from the bottle I used? It was the same bottle I used to use for Baquacil, but I rinsed it out 3 times.
Click to expand...

Assuming you mean that you stored straight Baquacil in the bottle, it could easily have come from the bottle. The tests measure parts per million. There is always some small amount of residue even after cleaning. Best to not reuse chemical bottles at all. Rinsing three times would be good enough for a bottle that had pool water from back when you were using Baquacil.

Your chlorine is a little low, if we believe their numbers. Chlorine tests at a pool store are the least reliable because it can disappear during transit.

Even with their number your TA is still a little high. If you are using test strips I would go with their number, but if you are using a drop test then I would go with your number.
 
Not straight Baquacil. It was the the bottle I used for transporting water samples when I had Baq. I dunked another one of my Baquacil test strips just now and it showed 0.

I just tested chlorine again after I got home and got TC of 4. I had put in a quart of chlorine after I took the sample, and the sample sat around for at least an hour.

I just added 16 oz. of the muriatic acid. Whew... that is potent stuff even after sitting unopened for 9 years!

Hubby just left to get the new filter, so we are on track for doing that tomorrow.
 
Hooray... the filter is changed out! Whew, what a job! The new one we got was nasty and all the parts had to be cleaned super good. But it was free and nothing got broken in the process so I can't complain. It took most of the afternoon to get it switched out, and during that time my TC dropped down to 0.5. I topped it off to 3ppm and will go back out and test again once it has had time to circulate.

I bought 3 lbs of CYA which should raise my pool to 43. I put half of it in a sock and hung it from the PoolSkim. Should I hang another sock with the other half or wait for this one to dissolve first?

I also bought salt to add to the water for the Intex saltwater system I ordered. Should I hold off on adding that until the CYA is dissolved?

Thanks to everyone who has offered help and encouragement! This time last week I was pretty freaked out, but I know I made the right decision!
 
Congratulations on taking on that job and getting it done!

I tend to be conservative when I add CYA. I'd let this batch dissolve, wait a few days, and test for it. Then add more if you need to. I have finally come to understand the relationship between CYA and FC and have learned that having a low level of CYA for a few days will not make my water unhappy. It just means I have to pay more attention to chlorine levels.

Anna
 
Thanks, Anna.

Okay, here are my latest numbers:
FC 3
CC 2.5
pH 7.0
TA 210

My guess is the CC is from whatever skank still remained in that used filter. I added a gallon of chlorine to bring it back to 15. I assume I should keep it at shock level again until it stays there overnight. Am I on the right track?
 
Me again... I have been keeping FC at 15 and testing 3 times a day, but I can not seem to get CC to zero. It has been staying between 0.5-1.5. We have been using the pool during this time, usually in the late afternoon. Anything different I should be doing?
 
There can sometimes be some baquacil related goo stuck in the pipes that can take quite a while to go away completely. Though, at this point it is starting to have been a while already.

What is your CYA level these days? If you haven't already you should bring CYA up to the 30-50 range.

Also, don't use a solar cover during the day. The pool needs as much sunlight as possible while there is CC.
 
Last time I tested CYA it was close to 30. I added more to try to bring it up to the 35-40 range but have not tested it since. It was gone from the sock a couple days ago, so I will test it again today.

I just put a new solar cover on last night. I will go remove it now.
 

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