Stubborn Persistently High PH

Tom_F

0
Apr 8, 2014
3
Scotch Plains, NJ
Pool Size
24000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I have a 2014 Sundance 880 Optima, ~400 gallons. It was not used in 2022, but was powered on and kept at temp. Last weekend I drained, cleaned and refilled it. When drained, there was a slight bit of plant debris in the bottom that had blown in through the side of the hinge in the cover, but very little. Drained completely and refilled with tap water (from a water utility, not well water). Since filling, the Ph has been persistently high according to both a Taylor test kit and brand new AquaChek test strips. Yesterday's readings were confirmed by my local pool store, so I'm confident both test chemicals and test strips are accurate. Note: test strips are only used to get the spa under control with most readings confirmed by Taylor tests. Chemicals used are a mix of brands. This is a new problem and has never happened before. The spa has not been used since being filled and the jests and air blower have only been run to mix in chemicals. Temp is 100. Spa is outside (NJ) but covered.

TC: 0.5
FC: 0.5
pH: 8.0+
TA: 70 (was 110)
CA: 9
Calcium Hardness: 140
Phosphates 2250 (no idea why)

I know the TC and FC are both low, but I was hoping to get the pH set first and then fix the chlorine. I typically use a pH stabilizer after I get the pH between 7.2 and 7.6 which I find makes it easier to get and keep the chlorine correct.

I used up some Robarb pH Down I had around and pH did not move. Clorox pH Down was the only brand I could get quickly and it has successfully blown the bottom out of TA (was 110 and after dosing yesterday is now 70) with no meaningful reduction in pH. It has shown some very short term reduction in pH (30 minutes after dosing) but after 2 hours or longer the pH is back up to or over 8. TA had fallen to 73 earlier in the week and I was able to raise it before trying to address the pH again, but adding the Clorox drops it back. Short of draining it and starting all over, does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
 
Phosphates are from soap usually.

Fix chlorine first; that's a sanitation issue. You want your bath water to be safe.

70 is good for TA, don't worry about that.

Try using dichlor for chlorine a few times, then switch to liquid. The dichlor is acidic and will add some CYA to buffer the chlorine, making the water nicer to be in.

pH 7.8 and below is fine. Aeration causes it to go up, and spas do a lot of aerating!

Check out this link: How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)?
and this: Dichlor/Bleach Method

To immediately adjust pH, get muriatic acid and handle it carefully (fumes are alarming but actually a good warning sign not to breathe around the fumes)

Don;t ever, ever, get either liquid chlorine or muriatic acid in your eyes. Be safe.
 
I have a Sundance Altamar 400g spa. I need to keep my TA at 50-40ppm, and additionally add 50ppm borates for my spa to stabilize between 7.6-7.8. This pH does not move until the next water exchange. Make sure all air knobs are closed when spa is not in use to minimize aeration.
 
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