Store testing Chlorine and CYA

[fhorta]

Hello all. Just had my water tested at local pool store. Everything was on point. I knew my chlorine was high as store tech said. He said my total chl was at 20ppm. The active chl though was only at 4.5ppm, and the remaining 15.5 was doing nothing. He suggested to throw in some oxydizer to free up that locked chlorine? He further said my CYA was at 100. I asked if that would be too high. He said, no, that's just fine. 150 CYA would be too high.

I have a taylor 2006k and my CYA results just this morning was at best 50ppm, but leaning more towards between 40 and 45. I still can't quite nail down how to exactly take this test and at what point do i record the ppm's. At 50ppm indicator, i can still see glimpse of the black dot. At 45, can still see it, albeit extremely cloudy. At 40, almost entirely gone, but technically can still see it, so my best guess is my CYA is in the 40-50 range.

I have been battling the dreaded layer of brownish, almost green but not quite, dust in bottom of pool surface. I have gotten past this before by slamming to about 20ppm liquid chlorine until all gone and right now it has improved since Monday. The water has been clear, just when I brush, that cloud of dust of layer was there and visible. Today, much less visible.

I am baffled by what tech told me though. They use this electronic testing device they stick a cartridge into tester and it spits out results. It has got to be wrong.

My main question is the chlorine statement he made. Any suggestions, feedback, replies? He also said that chlorine can develop resistance and best to use an algaecide. I have heard algaecide is a waste. PLS any suggestions, info. I trust this site much more than pool stores. Thanks

 

[Texas Splash]

Just had my water tested at local pool store. Everything was on point. I knew my chlorine was high as store tech said. He said my total chl was at 20ppm. The active chl though was only at 4.5ppm, and the remaining 15.5 was doing nothing. He suggested to throw in some oxydizer to free up that locked chlorine? He further said my CYA was at 100. I asked if that would be too high. He said, no, that's just fine. 150 CYA would be too high.

Sorry, but everything you were told in this statement was incorrect. Just another example of poor pool store advice. Avoid them like the plague.

I have a taylor 2006k and my CYA results just this morning was at best 50ppm, but leaning more towards between 40 and 45. I still can't quite nail down how to exactly take this test and at what point do i record the ppm's. At 50ppm indicator, i can still see glimpse of the black dot. At 45, can still see it, albeit extremely cloudy. At 40, almost entirely gone, but technically can still see it, so my best guess is my CYA is in the 40-50 range.

Sounds like 40 is the better number.

I have been battling the dreaded layer of brownish, almost green but not quite, dust in bottom of pool surface. I have gotten past this before by slamming to about 20ppm liquid chlorine until all gone and right now it has improved since Monday. The water has been clear, just when I brush, that cloud of dust of layer was there and visible. Today, much less visible.

Sounds like you still have algae. At the very least, consider doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test with your K-2006C test kit. That's the best way to confirm.

I am baffled by what tech told me though.

Again, just walk away. Most of them really don't understand the chemistry.

My main question is the chlorine statement he made. Any suggestions, feedback, replies? He also said that chlorine can develop resistance and best to use an algaecide. I have heard algaecide is a waste. PLS any suggestions, info. I trust this site much more than pool stores.

The tech was incorrect about most of it. Just do the OCLT on your own and report back here with the results. With your K-2006C testing we can help you through any issues.

 

[Donldson]

What explanation did he give for his "15.5 is doing nothing"? Don't get me wrong, he's just making stuff up to sell you things you don't need, I'm just curious which story he was feeding you. What does your FAS-DPD test tell you that your FC and CC are?

 

[fhorta]

Didn't really explain . He was just reading off the computer screen "results". He mentioned something about "chlorine lock" and needing an oxidizer to unlock the 15.5ppms, but suggested not doing this for another couple of days. My fas-dpd test results yielded 16 ppms free chlorine, or total chlorine?? I forget which one is which. It has been a while. I am out of the Combined Cl liquid so can't test for that. All i know right now is that last night i added liquid chlorine and I got 36 drops (18ppm-i use 10ml sample) of 0871 before sample water turned from red to clear. This morning, it was at 32 drops (16ppm). So, losing 2ppm. I will mention that before last night, i was only slamming to 12ppms. The night before, i did not lose any chlorine overnight. Left it at 12ppm and next morning still at 12ppm. I thought i was done, but water did not look clear like it usually does yet. So I went higher because i figured my CYA was around 40 to 50, hence had to raise Cl . Raised to 18ppm (my intention was 20, but ran out) and next morning lost 2ppm. But, pool looking better today. Just wonder why i didnt lose any overnight if apparently not done killing whatever algae. bTW, dding and checking chlorine after sun down and before sunrise.

 

[newdude]

I am baffled by what tech told me though.

My head pool store dude told me I didn't immediately need CYA for my freshly filled pool because when it burns off a little, you still have some left. When I told him that fill water has 0 CYA, he told me we couldn't know that until the machine tested the water. I persisted and so did he.

I really like this kid. He's been there 5(?) years and goes out of his way to be helpful. But he's been taught utter nonsense by the industry reps.