Stenner Pump Install Questions & Guidance

Sep 2, 2011
63
Nanty Glo, PA
Okay, so I've decided to bite the bullet and go with a stenner pump for chlorine dosage "automation". I was going to go down the "budget alternative route" but came to a conclusion that there wasn't much that seemed reliable in the budget options (and I'd prefer to have this a "once and done" project).

So a little about my pool: It's an above-ground 13,500 gallon pool with a hayward Power-Flo LX pump and sand filter running 8hrs per day on a mechanical timer in "run 1hr, then off for 2hrs" increments. (I adjust it back to 6hrs per day +/- Labor day until pool closing.) So I have no special "controllers" or anything and no heaters, chlorinators, etc. The mechanical timer is "precise" in that it keeps good time once I set it, but it is difficult to get it set to the precise time and it will stop running and mismatch real time when the power goes out (i.e. right now the pump comes on at 56 minutes past the hour consistently like clockwork, but if we were to lose power for say 20 minutes exactly it would start the pump at 16 minutes past the hour until I readjust the timer). The mechanical timer can also only be set in 20 minute increments. The pool power cord is a 15A twist-plug as per "building code". The pump motor gets removed from the pad and stored out of the elements for winter. As far as Chlorine consumption goes, it consumes approximately 2ppm per day with little or no use of the pool (35oz of 10% liquid chlorine).

Here are some photos of my pool setup:
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I am looking into Stenner pump Econ T 15gpd (i.e. with built-in timer) which according to Stenner's publications and my calcs will deliver 1.33 oz/min which would require me to run it 26 mins per day (which I plan to divide up throughout the day). I could also choose the Stenner Econ Fx 7.4gpd model which would require me to use my own timer, would save about $38 on the pump, and deliver 0.66 oz/min requiring 53 mins of runtime. I'm planning to put in a post beside my sand filter (drain valve side) to mount the Stenner pump on.

For the chlorine tank I'm not settled on anything yet, but thinking I want minimum 5 gallon capacity and prefer 7 gallon (anymore is getting beyond what I'd need as the longest I'd ever expect to be away from the pool is 10 days - I expect to top off the tank with chlorine on weekends). I'm thinking to use with a "pail" with a gamma seal lid, or possible one of these water containers. I like the idea of going with one blue in color (not white/translucent and not black to get hot). I don't plan on burying the pail/tank at all, except maybe a few inches. If I build some sort of 4-sided enclosure (see #2 below) I could build it a little bigger and get the pail/tank mostly shaded all day, but I don't expect sun to be a problem. Our summers here in west central PA suck and we only get a handful of days above 80 degrees; winter lasts 6 months here.

I was also thinking of mounting the pump (and a new electric outlet if needed) inside one of these enclosures.

Onto the questions (and I hope I remember them all):

1) Can the Stenner Pump be mounted with the pump head facing sideways rather than having it facing down (like is done on the Stenner tanks)? Should I order the "vertical wall mount"?

2) Is putting the Stenner pump inside an enclosure overkill? Or should I just get the "roof" for it? I could also build a 4-sided box so it's under roof and has walls on back and two sides.

3) Like mentioned in the forum about Stenner pumps, I'd like it to only run when the pump is running, so how do I keep it in time with the pool pump timer. (I'd rather the Stenner timer stop and restart when power goes out like the pool pump timer does, but that probably isn't going to work.) Do I need to replace my pool pump timer with one that is also battery backed up? If so which one? The motor is 1hp and 11.0 amps (120v). Is it better in my situation (for some reason) to get a Stenner pump that doesn't have a built in timer and run it off my own timer?

4) How do you get the 1/4 tubing (black, UV resistent) into the bucket/pail/container in a way that is watertight so that rain doesn't get into the container and dilute the chlorine? Is there a special "gland" similar to an electrical cord's "strain relief"?

5) Does the bucket/pail/container need to be vented? If the container is airtight won't that create a problem for the pump? How do you vent the container in such a way that rain doesn't get in?

6) As far as the injection line goes, I've read a lot about tapping into an elbow or adding a "Tee", but for now couldn't I just have the discharge line clipped to the top end of my pool top rail (preferrably with a 90 degree elbow) above the return jet? The only issue I have with this is that the solar cover could possibly float over to that side and I'd end up with the chlorine injected on top of the cover. (I use a 21ft cover in a 24ft pool by the way - it allows some room for the jet to spray upwards and "aerate". Oh, and I also use a modified spa jet rather than the standard eyeball, so the return blows out along the wall to increase circulation.)

I'm sure there will be more questions as this project comes along. I know it's late in the season to be doing this, but I'd like to get it worked out this year so that it's ready to go from day #1 next season.

Thanks!
-Garry
 
Lot's of questions! Hopefully this bump will attract those that still have these chlorine dosing systems.
 
I would go with the higher flow pump, or one that is even higher than that. Dispensing over 26 minutes or 5 minutes isn't a big deal. The shorter run time will hopefully make the pump last longer. A higher flow pump also makes it easier to shock/SLAM your pool, if you want to use chlorine from your tank.

I ditch all my pool timers and just made an enclosure with WiFi light switches for all my timers. The WiFi light switches just open and close contactors so they don't have to handle the load from the pool pump or any high current or 240 VAC devices. This also make it easy to set timers and schedules and adjust them. Also turning things on and off with your phone make it easy too. If you want to get fancy you can create elaborate scripts to dispense more than just chlorine if you have sensors to determine chlorine level, pH, alkalinity etc.

As for a tank, make sure it's opaque (no light should get in) and also try to keep it as cool as possible (try to keep it shaded). I have a larger pool and have a 20 or 30 gallon barrel I got off amazon for $25 or so.
 
Thanks for your reply Bill. I now have the 15gpd pump in-hand and a 5 gallon bucket with a simple lid. Just need the time to set it all up (that may be awhile, and I might just rig it up to finish the season).

I'm curious about the use of WiFi switches or outlets. Why did you use a WiFi switch instead of an outlet - was it because of the heavy load that would have been on the outlet? So you wired in two WiFi switches to control two standard outlets (one for the pool & one for the Stenner pump)? Mind sharing a little more on this? A pic of the setup and maybe a link to the switches would be helpful!

I did learn that the tank/container needs vented. I'm just going to drill a few holes in the side of my bucket at the top just under the "rings" or "ridges" of the bucket. I'm still not sure how you seal where the tubing comes out of the bucket lid. Seems others just rely on a tight fit of the tubing through the lid.

I'm also going to build the 4-sided enclosure for the pump mounting & electrical outlet(s). That will provide a little shade too. I'll try to remember to come back & post pics when it's done (which might be next season).

-Garry
 
Oh, I should add that with the WiFi switch/outlet or timer setup I definitely want to keep the ability to manually switch on or off at least the pool pump. I do this now with my manual timer setup all the time (e.g. to backwash my filter). Bill - do you have that ability with your WiFi switches? And can it be done manually without the use of an app? (I prefer to not have to use an app for manual override).

Thanks,
-Garry
 
The WiFi switch can be turned on and off like any other light switch. I chose WiFi switches instead of outlets because when I put it together 20A WiFi outlets were not available and also because contactor are cheap and can take the inrush and load from pumps starting. With contactors I have the option of running the pump at 120 VAC or 240 VAC, I am not if there are any 240 VAC smart outlets or switches available.

Any WiFi light switch will work, just don't use a dimming one. D215S-1BW

For contactors I used these (make sure the control side work on 120 VAC): https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230...ld=1&keywords=contactor&qid=1628099230&sr=8-3

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I could not find pictures of the inside, i'll see if I can take some.

For your tank venting and tube sealing there is a pretty simple solution. Use a 1/4" tubing push to connect bulkhead fittings 1/4" RO Water Tube Fitting, Bulkhead Connector, Quick Connect Bulkhead Connector, for RO Water system, Water filters, Water purifiers Fittings - - Amazon.com

I use one as the vent, I put a short piece of tube (12") in it on the outside just to prevent stuff from falling in it.

For the other tube, I drilled out the tank side so i could push the tube through and have it reach the bottom of the tank. Putting a tube on both sides i had issues with it sucking air and not priming.
 
A few more pictures. Currently I have Belkin WEMO switches, but they don't seem to be the most reliable for scheduling . They don't seem to consistently follow daylight savings time and are randomly off an hour which doesn't play well when you are dosing chlorine and the pool pump is not running. They are supposed to sync time and routines once a day or when a routine is change, but that does not always happen it seems. When I have a chance I'll be replacing them with the Leviton switches in the prior email ( I haven't any issues with them in other spots in my house).

This is all powered from GFCI breakers in a sub-panel on the other side of the post.

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I used two of these timers:
Intermatic ST01
One for the Stenner & one for the pump. They're rated up to one horsepower. Have battery backup so they'll stay in sync in the event of a power failure. Programming is a little confusing the 1st time.

PS - My pump is running on 120 volts, not sure if these timers work on 240.
 
Thanks Bill for all the details! And thanks Mike for your input on a heavy duty timer option for my pump.

I've ordered a WiFi smart switch to try out with my pump. As far as those contactors (relays), do I actually need those? I was planning on directly wiring the smart switch to control my 15A twist-plug receptacle that my pool pump is plugged into. (My pump is rated 1hp & 11amps.). If I need it (or it's recommended) then I need to come up with a way to mount it in a weatherproof location. Guess I can't just put it in an outdoor gang box can I?

Thanks,
-Garry
 
The Leviton WiFi switches in the link above are rated for 3/4 HP. The inrush from the motor on start up will likely shorted the life of the internal contacts in the WiFi switch. The contactor will handle to loads of the pump without an issue (plus it's cheap and easy to replace if it does fail) and the load on the switch to open and close the contactor is minimal and will make the switch last longer. I also put the contactor so I could also control a 240 vac pump if needed.
 

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Garry here is pic of my install. It is simple but it works. I used the Stenner Econ T (15gpd) with the built in timer, puts out 1.33 oz per minute. I also bought the tank from Stenner, but, you can use any suitable container. The timer is super accurate. My pool pump in on an intertec timer. I have the Stenner pump timer set to come on 30 minutes after pool pump starts. Works great. If LC is fresh my 16500 gallon pool takes 21 oz for 1ppm. My pool normally uses 3.5 to 4 ppm of LC a day in this current Texas hot weather and my pool gets full sun from daylight to dark. Only thing I had to really install in the system was the 1 1/2" tee with 1/2" threaded outlet in the return line. Very simple. Mine is in an enclosed "pump house", but I would advise you to put some type of small roof or cover over the Stenner pump and tank to keep the rain off. If tank is not water tight rain will dilute your LC, learned this the hard way ....lol
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Never got around to this project last year and now I'm in a rush to get this setup for opening the pool in a week or two. Trying to figure out the wiring and think I have it sorted. I'll post here if I have questions and post my finished project (perhaps with details on the wiring to help others).

-Garry
 
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