Laker4ever said:
I can test it at the moment but it drops down to below 5 when its on low speed. I believe it uses 2" pipes. I'm not sure of the length. Would this be the length of all pipes in the system?
Steady Pressure Rise Over Time
- Thread starter mpride
- Start date
I can test it at the moment but it drops down to below 5 when its on low speed. I believe it uses 2" pipes. I'm not sure of the length. Would this be the length of all pipes in the system?
The reasons to explain your situations can be:
1) plumbing valves/check valves
2) filter that is clogged from algae
3) debris on the pressure side of plumbing
This is if I assume that indeed you observed lower pressure when the system was initially installed. I'm wondering if the gauge was actually "lying" to you on the low side and showing you say 12 PSI initially because it was clogged from some PVC grindings from installation. And maybe after it got cleared it actually showing the correct pressure. Maybe your pump+plumbing is such that you have a 25+ psi.
I think from my experience, it is not good to operate system at close to 30 PSI. It most likely means you are wasting energy and not efficient. that is if you even get a decent flow rate.
1) Now, from the picture, i would look into the salt cell....make sure it is clean....Then, what is that piece after the cell? is it just a temperature probe port??
The heater, does it have a bypass valve? Can you tell if it is fully on either position?
Also noticed you have a water valve on top of the pump. You can get a $10 pressure gauge from home depot that plugs in directly on it. It is worth to get it and have a sanity check...just to make sure.
2) since you opened and verified that the filter media is clean, i don't think it is your issue. I had exact issue because of green water that clogged a DE filter medias just couple hours of operation...
3)check pool returns maybe you have those rotating eyes that can be closed or something.
I would also try to select only one of the intakes to the pump like and bypass the booster pump. then change the valve orientations and compare numbers.
1) plumbing valves/check valves
2) filter that is clogged from algae
3) debris on the pressure side of plumbing
This is if I assume that indeed you observed lower pressure when the system was initially installed. I'm wondering if the gauge was actually "lying" to you on the low side and showing you say 12 PSI initially because it was clogged from some PVC grindings from installation. And maybe after it got cleared it actually showing the correct pressure. Maybe your pump+plumbing is such that you have a 25+ psi.
I think from my experience, it is not good to operate system at close to 30 PSI. It most likely means you are wasting energy and not efficient. that is if you even get a decent flow rate.
1) Now, from the picture, i would look into the salt cell....make sure it is clean....Then, what is that piece after the cell? is it just a temperature probe port??
The heater, does it have a bypass valve? Can you tell if it is fully on either position?
Also noticed you have a water valve on top of the pump. You can get a $10 pressure gauge from home depot that plugs in directly on it. It is worth to get it and have a sanity check...just to make sure.
2) since you opened and verified that the filter media is clean, i don't think it is your issue. I had exact issue because of green water that clogged a DE filter medias just couple hours of operation...
3)check pool returns maybe you have those rotating eyes that can be closed or something.
I would also try to select only one of the intakes to the pump like and bypass the booster pump. then change the valve orientations and compare numbers.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,957
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
At the risk of repeating myself, the bigger the pump, the higher the pressure. A 2 HP full rated Tristar and 26 PSI filter pressure is actually spot on for 2" plumbing. Based on a few calculations, the total head loss is probably around 72' of head with a flow rate of 98 GPM. That is equivalent to a plumbing curve of 0.0075 which is slightly lower than the CECs Curve-C. So to me it is perfectly normal and within the range of what is to be expected.
mas,
I agree. And it probably is what i described as
I think the pump operating at high speed is too much for that plumbing. I would highly recommend to use it in limited hours such as when you want to have good skimmer action...or if you use suction based cleaner. (but i saw the booster pump, so i guess not)
And for the majority of circulation just use the low speed which you said is about 5 PSI which is very efficient.
You will save many $$$
That's just my $0.02 cents.
I agree. And it probably is what i described as
or maybe he actually was running at low speed and looked at the gauge....and didn't pay attention to the speed thing...
I think the pump operating at high speed is too much for that plumbing. I would highly recommend to use it in limited hours such as when you want to have good skimmer action...or if you use suction based cleaner. (but i saw the booster pump, so i guess not)
And for the majority of circulation just use the low speed which you said is about 5 PSI which is very efficient.
You will save many $$$
That's just my $0.02 cents.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,957
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I think the gauge initially ran at 20 PSI, not 12 PSI and that could have been because one of the two suction ports was closed at the time of the measurement. But I do agree that a 2 HP pump is way too big for that pool.mpride said: