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Can I get in pool when its at shock level. 10fc and 3 TC. Or do I need to wait till I get it to stabalize through the night to where I can stop shocking. Like earlier today it was at 3 for AB hour. Could I have got in then
 
I must be finally getting somewhere it held fc of 10 for 4 hrs then only dropped to 3. Reshocked and did last test at dark. 10 now. Still not showing cya but only been 1 day. All stabalizer has came out of sock.
 
pitmanr2003 said:
I must be finally getting somewhere it held fc of 10 for 4 hrs then only dropped to 3. Reshocked and did last test at dark. 10 now. Still not showing cya but only been 1 day. All stabalizer has came out of sock.
Do you mean that you are testing for the CYA? If you are, you should wait to test as it can take up to a week to show on tests. Testing too early just wastes your reagents.

24 hours after the CYA has dissolved from the sock, assume it is there and use that new CYA # to determine your FC levels.
 
pitmanr2003 said:
OK what will my shock level be 24hours after cya dissolves. Cyanide should be a 40
okay now, not cyanide but cyanuric acid :) Look at the CYA/Chlorine chart in my sig & in Pool School.
Based on CYA of 40, Shock is 16; Maintenance is Min 3, Target 5 to 6.

pitmanr2003 said:
Stayed at 10 fc through the night. Would that mean no more shocking.
You are done shocking when you meet this three criteria:
A. CC is 0.5 or lower;
B. An overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less;
C. And, if you don't have a FAS-DPD test kit, the water is clear.

What say you?
 
LOL. Was using my phone. Darn predictive text picked cyanide not cya. OK I think I have met all 3. But let me make sure I am figuring CC right. I had a 10 TC and 10 fc so I have 0 CC. Right? Also cya hasn't been dissolved for 24 hrs that's why I wad shocking at 10.
 

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pitmanr2003 said:
LOL. Was using my phone. Darn predictive text picked cyanide not cya.
LOL :lol:

OK I think I have met all 3. But let me make sure I am figuring CC right. I had a 10 TC and 10 fc so I have 0 CC. Right?
Yep. What kit are you using? If not the FAS/DPD, then your water should be clear.

Also cya hasn't been dissolved for 24 hrs that's why I wad shocking at 10.
Yep, you're right.
 
Water has been clear the whole time. Using cheap Walmart 6 way strips. Ordering good one this week but had to make due with what I had I guess. Now do I just check it tonight and adjust to the high end of fc for my current cya of 40. Stabalizer will of been dissolved 24hrs by then
 
pitmanr2003 said:
Water has been clear the whole time. Using cheap Walmart 6 way strips. Ordering good one this week but had to make due with what I had I guess. Now do I just check it tonight and adjust to the high end of fc for my current cya of 40. Stabalizer will of been dissolved 24hrs by then
Yep, that's right. Once the FC drifts down, add liquid chlorine/bleach to raise it back up each evening to about 6FC.
Try the 6FC and see if it holds. Make sure that it always stays above 3FC, your minimum for 40 CYA.

Do you understand the daily maintenance for pH & FC?
You know, that five-minute-a-day stuff we talk about :p

Congrats on ordering a good test kit.
You will not regret it and they will last several seasons, too.

I recommend the TF100. Link in my sig.
 
Ok its hard to tell exactly with my walmart test strips. they only show 3 and then right to 10 nothing in between. I have another liquid test kit that said it was at 5fc but thats as high as it goes. boy do I need that kit asap. I went on and added what pool calc called for to get it to 7. Yes I must check ph and Fc everynight when I get off work which is at midnight. Then adjust accordingly. Then on sundays im going to clean filter or change, vacuum, and check all the other stuff and adjust accordingly.
 
pitmanr2003 said:
LOL. Was using my phone. Darn predictive text picked cyanide not cya. OK I think I have met all 3. But let me make sure I am figuring CC right. I had a 10 TC and 10 fc so I have 0 CC. Right? Also cya hasn't been dissolved for 24 hrs that's why I wad shocking at 10.


Hi pitman...until you get that test kit you will not be able to calc CC. TC = FC + CC. The TF100 you ordered has a FAS/DPD chlorine test. It also has a yellow OTO Chlorine test that tests for TC of up to 5ppm...you can disregard that test other than to show a pressence of chlorine...not many folks can decipher the shades of yellow :shock:

The FAS/DPD measures FC up to 50ppm and CC as well. You will then add these two measurements together to calc TC.

I hope that made sense...my point is that I'm not sure your done shocking unles you are sure your FC holding...you may be only able to test up to 10ppm and if at first it was 14ppm and then 10ppm you wouldn't be able to tell the diff.
 
i understand that exactly. thats what I was thinking, but it held 10 from sunday at around 5pm all the way till around 8pm monday evening. It wouldnt hold it an hour with out dropping to zero saturday. around 3 gal of bleach later and Im making some progress.
 
Update. I'm about ready to throw these cheap kits in the trash. I tried to get fc to 7 last night but because these kits only read 4 different values I went to higher back at 10 so it says. On a good note Ph and ta are holding perfect. Well atleast kit says they are. I don't want to but I may have to just take sample to pool store.
 
Just wait till you get your test kit...then you'll really hate the strips. I have some left that I use mid day of a populated pool (to double check) when somebody says ''my eyes hurt..."....yah coulda been the still went sunblock you put on that is now running into your eyes...it certainly isn't my pool..lol...
 
Got tf100 in today and hers is update

Fc. 7
CC. .5
Ph. 7.2 added some borax
Ta. 120
Cya. 40.

This was half way through day. Pretty safe to say that Walmart teat kit was way off being last night it said I had 3fc and I didn't add anything. Looks good and the family really enjoyed pool. Thanks to every one
 

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