Would rebar that is coated in some isolating agent help prevent the rebar from rusting without the surrounding material?
Starting a new pool "Construction has started, Bicarb startup help”
- Thread starter AZRider
- Start date
The foreman for the shotcrete crew came by yesterday to review the crews work, I asked about the exposed rebar he said that the plaster crew should fill the holes with Hydraulic cement when adding the return jets. I also noticed that skimmer is slightly angled. Is this something I should be proactive to correct myself and what would I use to seal rebar against rust?
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With the exposed rebar, clean the bar free of product and spray with a Rust Oleum paint, with the plaster crew using hydraulic cement prior to plaster that will properly cover the surface, that bar in the photo looks close 
to the 3” requirement, alignment of the pipe being off center will be hard to correct, they need to be square to the surface at the time of plaster application.
The skimmer being slightly angled can’t be corrected if it’s incased in Shotcrete properly, can you provide a picture?
to the 3” requirement, alignment of the pipe being off center will be hard to correct, they need to be square to the surface at the time of plaster application.The skimmer being slightly angled can’t be corrected if it’s incased in Shotcrete properly, can you provide a picture?
I can’t tell much from the picture how much of an angel it’s at, that’s a good thing, I have seen tile crews mask a out of level skimmer within reason.
The Shotcrete crew came back to cleanup a couple of items. I asked about skimmer rebar, he said the rebar shouldn’t be there and I confirmed he is correct according to skimmer manual. Manual says rebar shouldn’t be closer than 5”. He told me he sees plaster crews cut out the rebar that is too close to Venturi jet. My question is does that compromise the integrity of the pool shell?
Any time you remove part of the rebar cage it will compromise the integrity, how much is the question.
When building the cage, any splices/lap overs must be 22” long for integrity.
I personally have not seen a plaster crew cut rebar in order to perform their job.
Typically they will clean the rebar and paint, then patch the area to be plastered over later.
Thanks, I thought cutting the rebar sounded like an over reaction. When that time comes I will work it out with plaster crew
It has been over a week now since shotcrete, starting to back off watering to 3 times a day. Started removing forms some of the stakes are embedded in concrete so I have to cut them off with a grinder. The question I have about backfilling trenches. Should I use a Jumping Jack to compact the fill? I worry it maybe too hard on plumbing if fill is not deep enough. Right now I just covered the pipes to protect them from damage from rocks falling into the trench. Another question about ground loop around the pool can that be buried? I will be building an outdoor kitchen and Pergola after pool is finaled, Will I need access to the ground loop when that is added? Thanks for all the help so far.
What’s going on top of the trenches?
Using a mechanical tamper is ok if the pipes are properly surrounded.
I don’t see that used too often, typically it’s done in layers tamped with a hand tamper and watering in between layers.
Using a mechanical tamper is ok if the pipes are properly surrounded.
I don’t see that used too often, typically it’s done in layers tamped with a hand tamper and watering in between layers.
We are doing travertine pavers around pool and patio. I have just done the minimum where pavers will be placed. I can layer it and water it. About ground wire will I need to access it again?
If the ground wire has been inspected and checked off for pre-deck, then more than likely you won’t need access to it again.
While I watch my pool cure waiting for the next stage to begin, I decided to plan my pool startup strategy. I received my TF Test kit 3 weeks ago. Over the last 3 weeks I have tested the fill water 4 times. Against the polular belief that all Phoenix valley well water is hard, mine is not. CH over 4 tests 50,75,50,50 TA 120 for all 4 tests pH above 8.2 all tests. I am thinking a Bicarb startup would be the recommended route with such low CH. Plaster will be Finest Finish Mini Pebble. With such a low CH will I need to use the barrel fill method due to the high volume of Baking soda I will need to add? How do I calulated the baking soda requirement? Pool Math does not have an option of it. I know I have time but I like to plan ahead and not rush around at the end.
I did some more research on BiCarb startup. Found another guide that gave the amounts of baking soda to add at startup. The guide suggested adjusting the CH after pool is filled to bring CH up above 150ppm. It seems to me that that would change all the original calulations and thus you would end up with too much baking soda in the pool. Is that going to create issues? As far as the barrel question goes, I also found a post that says since I will be present during filling I could use a 5 gal bucket and do incremental baking soda addtions as pool fills.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,453
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Your source water right now is a mix of local water and Colorado river water. Test the source monthly as it will likely shift to all Colorado River water sometime this summer.