Sta-Rite SR400NA Heater Blowing Fuses

Several days ago, I posted a problem I was having with the 1.25A fuse blowing on my 1998 Sat-Rite SR400NA heater when the gas valve circuit kicked in. I finally ran down that problem to a shorted-out gas valve. I replaced the gas valve - no more blown fuses.

Before I ran down the bad gas valve electrical issue, I already knew I had a problem with the control board throwing an E06 Error Code from the ancient Stack Flue Switch (not a Sensor). The Stack Flue Switch is Part #42002-0009, which is very obsolete. The Stack Flue Switch on the 1998 Sta-Rite heater is pop-riveted in the exhaust pipe about 1" above the combustion chamber: Parts4heating.com: Pentair 42002-0009 Temperature Probe 471 Indoor

Since I replaced the control panel and membrane pad with a modern unit, I went ahead and ordered a modern Stack Flue Sensor, and installed that sensor into the neck of the exhaust pipe - very close to where Pentair now installs that sensor, and directly bypassed and hooked-up the wires from the old switch to the new sensor.

However, I now have another puzzling problem: The gas valve will kick in and ignite with that "whoosh" sound of the gas igniting, but the controls will shut off the gas valve after about 20-30 seconds and throw an E06 Error.

I troubleshooted with holding down the pool/spa button to get exhaust temperatures. I was getting all kinds of crazy readings... Right after ignition, and about every 2 seconds or so, the display would indicate exhaust temperatures of 185; 195; 290; 220; 350; 250; 425; 275; and then jump over 500 - which would clearly kick in for the overheat protection for temps over 500 and shutting everything down.

So, what I am looking at here? Obviously, exhaust temperatures do not fluctuate and jump all over the place like that. Am I looking at a bad Stack Flue Sensor? Bad Control Board? Did I screw up by trying to retrofit from a Stack Flue Switch to a Stack Flue Sensor - even though I upgraded to a modern control panel?

Looking at the wiring schematic, the retrofitted/modern SFS plugs directly into the modern control board, so I don't see how I could have screwed that part up, but maybe somehow I'm missing something?

For disclosure, I did install a non-OEM Pentair Control Board, and I did install a non-OEM Pentair SFS (Part #42002-0024S). I also received a second new SFS that I have done Ohms testing on and seems to test out fairly close to Ohms resistance for temperature. I'm going to swap out the SFS sensors tomorrow to see what happens.

Asking for opinions...

Thanks In Advance!
 
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With a non-OEM heater board and a non-OEM SFS you have no idea about compatibility.

We have seen lots of problems with non-OEM MasterTemp boards that were solved by installing a genuine Pentair board.



 
With a non-OEM heater board and a non-OEM SFS you have no idea about compatibility.

We have seen lots of problems with non-OEM MasterTemp boards that were solved by installing a genuine Pentair board.



Yes, thank you, and I do have a genuine Pentair board on the way. Fortunately, I bought the knock-off board via Amazon, so I was able to return it. The OEM Pentair board should arrive by 01/09, so I should know then. Thanks again!
 
With a non-OEM heater board and a non-OEM SFS you have no idea about compatibility.

We have seen lots of problems with non-OEM MasterTemp boards that were solved by installing a genuine Pentair board.



Hi ajw22,

You can add me to the list of pool owners that solved their heater problem using a genuine Pentair control board. The cheap, Chinese knock-off board was not able to correctly read SFS exhaust gas temperatures - the temperature readings jumped all over the map from 185-500 deg, and then showing an E06 overtemp code and shutdown. The Pentair board showed a smooth rise in SFS temperatures until it peaked out at 285 deg (45 deg water temp inlet / 50 deg ambient air).

I couldn't be happier - thank your for you suggestions and help...
 
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