Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm 400 (Shuts Down @ 92 Degrees) FIXED THANK YOU

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Kennywilliams23

Member
Jul 9, 2023
7
Temecula, Ca
Update:

Still need help.....
Took out thermal regulator and the temp went above the prior 92 shut off. I bought a new Thermal Regulator and installed it. Heater shut down at 88 :-(
I took the thermal regulator back out and here is what I am finding as it heats up. Spa Temp 90, Heater shows 88, exhaust shows 288, and the heater when holding down either spa on or pool on shows 305.

Spa Final Temp after about 30 minutes is ....... 100 on the EasyTouch Panel.

So why would the new Thermal Regulator shut down the system at 88/92?

Ideas are appreciated. Pics showing settings as described above.





I have cleaned out the heater base (rodent food remails), checked wires, and replaced the Stack Flu Sensor. Still shuts down at 92 degrees. The other think I noticed was that the temperature reading on the Sta-Rite is 2 degrees off from the Easy Touch panel.

Any suggestions on what my next step should be?

TIA
 

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Last edited:
Welcome to TFP.

Chances are it is the thermal regulator.

As a test remove the thermal regulator and see how the heater runs. Then replace the thermal regulator.
 
Check the stack flue temperature periodically to help identify these types of issues.

The stack flue temperature should be the same or close with the thermal regulator in or out and it should remain relatively consistent over time.

If you notice that the temperature is going higher over time, then that is a red flag that needs to be investigated.

Exhaust Gas Temperature

While running, press and hold the On button to display the exhaust temperature (Older Models).

The new models use the Menu to get the SFS.

Here is what the normal exhaust temperature should be:

Below 250 degrees...very low

250 to 290 ..................low

290 to 350.................acceptable

350 to 480 ..................high

Above 480...................error/shutdown.

Note: HD models can be up to 75 degrees higher. HD models use a cupro nickel exchanger and the efficiency is slightly lower resulting in less heat transfer and more waste heat.

If the exhaust gas temperature is higher than normal then water may be bypassing the heat exchanger through a broken bypass valve.

If you hold down the "pool on" button, it stays on 80, then flashes to 40, then back to 80, then the 80/40 reading and E05 indicate that the board is not getting a reading from the sensor. It's usually a bad sensor or damaged wires.
 
JamesW said:
Check the stack flue temperature periodically to help identify these types of issues.

The stack flue temperature should be the same or close with the thermal regulator in or out and it should remain relatively consistent over time.

If you notice that the temperature is going higher over time, then that is a red flag that needs to be investigated.

Exhaust Gas Temperature

While running, press and hold the On button to display the exhaust temperature (Older Models).

The new models use the Menu to get the SFS.

Here is what the normal exhaust temperature should be:

Below 250 degrees...very low

250 to 290 ..................low

290 to 350.................acceptable

350 to 480 ..................high

Above 480...................error/shutdown.

Note: HD models can be up to 75 degrees higher. HD models use a cupro nickel exchanger and the efficiency is slightly lower resulting in less heat transfer and more waste heat.

If the exhaust gas temperature is higher than normal then water may be bypassing the heat exchanger through a broken bypass valve.

If you hold down the "pool on" button, it stays on 80, then flashes to 40, then back to 80, then the 80/40 reading and E05 indicate that the board is not getting a reading from the sensor. It's usually a bad sensor or damaged wires.
Click to expand...
Please see my updated information.... TIA
 
Next to check is the bypass valve in the header.

If the bypass valve is broken the heater will short cycle and make noise. If you look in the hole where the thermal regulator goes, you should be able to see the black disk. If you look in the water inlet, you should be able to see the spring.

You will have to take the manifold off to replace the Internal by-pass kit P/N 77707-0001.

Guide to replacing the bypass valve is for the residential MasterTemp model.
 
ajw22 said:
Next to check is the bypass valve in the header.

If the bypass valve is broken the heater will short cycle and make noise. If you look in the hole where the thermal regulator goes, you should be able to see the black disk. If you look in the water inlet, you should be able to see the spring.

You will have to take the manifold off to replace the Internal by-pass kit P/N 77707-0001.

Guide to replacing the bypass valve is for the residential MasterTemp model.
Click to expand...
No noise, normal sound operation.
 
If it was a flow issue, then the stack flue temperature would be too high.

Check the board for the error code lights.

The following are the LEDs:

1.....PS (Pressure Switch)

2.....HLS (High Limit Switch)

3.....SFS (Stack Flue Sensor)

4.....AFS (Air Flow Switch)

5.....AGS (Automatic Gas Shutoff).

6.....Service System

7.....Thermistor

8.....Heating

9.....Pool On

10...Spa On

11...Service Heater.

Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

 

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JamesW said:
If it was a flow issue, then the stack flue temperature would be too high.

Check the board for the error code lights.

The following are the LEDs:

1.....PS (Pressure Switch)

2.....HLS (High Limit Switch)

3.....SFS (Stack Flue Sensor)

4.....AFS (Air Flow Switch)

5.....AGS (Automatic Gas Shutoff).

6.....Service System

7.....Thermistor

8.....Heating

9.....Pool On

10...Spa On

11...Service Heater.

Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Click to expand...
Looks like from the panel that it is the AGS, how "easy" is that to switch out? TIA
 
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