Spa Heater Element

[jcrompton]

My spa has a Balboa 58104 heater. The heating element from the factory is listed as 4.0Kw 800. It appears on line that the 5.5Kw element is the same size.

Does anyone know if there is a problem with replacing the 4Kw element with the 5.5Kw element? I am sure I am wired sufficiently for the addnl amp drraw but I didn't want to damage the circuit board fo the spa The board seems to just direct the delivery of 220V

 

[Bama Rambler]

As long as the wiring is large enough, there shouldn't be an issue replacing the 4kw heater with the 55kw heater. The contactor in the spa is sized to easily handle the extra load.

 

[RDspaguy]

The wattage (amp draw specifically) of the heater, coupled with the draw of the pumps and breaker rating (less 10%), determine what can run at the same time. A 4kw heater is often used to offset high hp pumps or allow heater operation with both pumps on. So, if you have 2 5hp pumps pulling 16 amps on high one of them must be off to run a 5.5kw heater on a 60 amp circuit or you risk nuisance tripping and reduced lifespan of your breaker, though it may run it for a while. This is programmeable on the board.
Another reason to choose a 4kw is lower required flow rate. So a smaller pump, or perhaps more dirty filter, can run the system without flow related errors.
The board can handle the 5.5kw, and it will fit in the housing exactly as the 4kw.

 

[JamesW]

Does anyone know if there is a problem with replacing the 4Kw element with the 5.5Kw element?

Verify with the manufacturer if a different larger element is acceptable.

Why do you want the larger heater element?

Do you keep the tub hot or only heat on occasion?

 

[jcrompton]

Thanks guys for the replies all! Another problem has surfaced. I initially ordered an "off brand" element from Amazon. The heater quit heating after about 2 weeks of being installed. The water chemistry was near. perfect because I had to re-fill the spa. However as I tooke the heater out to send back the faulty heater element the photos are what I found. Not only was the heating element destroyed in just 2 or 3 weeks but during that time the outer tube that hodls the element had developed those pitteed holes that were NOT there just 3 weeks before. What on earth could casue that?? I do use a chlorine generator for chlorine , so the spa is "salt water" - but it has been that way for a long time !!
Is it possible that the off brand element intrudeced something ??
I ordered the name brand - titanium -- will that answer the issue ?? Obviously now I have to order an all new heater - with the holes in my existing one -- Suggestions??

SpaGuts 25-150-1202 Universal Flo-Thru Heater Element, 5.5Kw, Titanium​

 

[jcrompton]

Verify with the manufacturer if a different larger element is acceptable.

Why do you want the larger heater element?

Do you keep the tub hot or only heat on occasion?

Sorry I forgot to. post pics

 

[JoyfulNoise]

What was the cheap Amazon knock-off heater made out of?

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Considering how the heater jacket shows that there was a blow-out and that there is significant corrosion around the couplings of the tube used to jacket the heater, my guess is that it was not properly assembled and the element basically overheated and shorted out to the jacket. Surprising that it didn't immediately trip a GFCI breaker. A lot of that pitting damage could be from electrical arching damaging the steel tube or it could be heater jacket material or other material from inside the heater that started the corrosion.

My understanding from reading lots of posts by our hot tub experts is that those heater elements need to be properly centered when they are installed or else they can touch the outer metal tube of the heater and cause significant damage.

 

[jcrompton]

Considering how the heater jacket shows that there was a blow-out and that there is significant corrosion around the couplings of the tube used to jacket the heater, my guess is that it was not properly assembled and the element basically overheated and shorted out to the jacket. Surprising that it didn't immediately trip a GFCI breaker. A lot of that pitting damage could be from electrical arching damaging the steel tube or it could be heater jacket material or other material from inside the heater that started the corrosion.

My understanding from reading lots of posts by our hot tub experts is that those heater elements need to be properly centered when they are installed or else they can touch the outer metal tube of the heater and cause significant damage.

That definitely makes sense !! How in the heck could even the heater element get that destroyed in just 2 weeks? But the multiple holes in the jacket is almost like welding or something -- why in the world would the breaker not trip? The whole reason I had to replace the heater element in the forst place was the breaker tripping when it would try to heat - that was after owning the spa for over 3 years!

 

[RDspaguy]

those heater elements need to be properly centered when they are installed or else they can touch the outer metal tube of the heater and cause significant damage.

We'll make a spa tech out of you yet!
And from looking at it I'd say that's exactly what happened.

Surprising that it didn't immediately trip a GFCI break

Yes it is, as it most definitely should have. I'd test that gfci.

was the breaker tripping when it would try to heat

Repeated trips can damage a gfci. Improper wiring could also cause it to not trip, but I doubt you changed that.