Spa draining into pool when off - new check valve put in

viksis

0
Jul 12, 2012
26
I've done so much research my brain hurts. I'm a dummy when it comes to pools so I hope you can help. Yesterday I replaced the flapper in the check valve. Spa was again drained to pool level when the pump is off overnight. Q1: Should I replace the inner workings of the Jandy valve to the spa on the left? Q2: Do I have the valves set properly for normal pool operation so that I have circulation from the pool returns AND a decent amount of water spilling over the spa when the pool is running? This is all the same plumbing etc from when we bought the house in 2014.
Any help you can give on the spa draining when the pool is off, is GREATLY appreciated! (I'll save my question about the spa Venturi system (no pump) not putting air in the spa jets for another time. It's not worked right since we moved in. SO FRUSTRATED)
 

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I've done so much research my brain hurts. I'm a dummy when it comes to pools so I hope you can help. Yesterday I replaced the flapper in the check valve. Spa was again drained to pool level when the pump is off overnight. Q1: Should I replace the inner workings of the Jandy valve to the spa on the left? Q2: Do I have the valves set properly for normal pool operation so that I have circulation from the pool returns AND a decent amount of water spilling over the spa when the pool is running? This is all the same plumbing etc from when we bought the house in 2014.
Any help you can give on the spa draining when the pool is off, is GREATLY appreciated! (I'll save my question about the spa Venturi system (no pump) not putting air in the spa jets for another time. It's not worked right since we moved in. SO FRUSTRATED)
 
Water seeks its own level, so either there is an air leak (break) in the system somewhere (valve, connection,. fitting, pressure gauge, etc) and/or a valve seal isn't working as designed to prevent backflow. The pic on the right is a bit hard to see. Can you re-post 2-3 pics that we can see better and/or zoom in a little better? Also, is the equipment pad at the same height as the pool, or is there a significant elevation difference?
 
Water seeks its own level, so either there is an air leak (break) in the system somewhere (valve, connection,. fitting, pressure gauge, etc) and/or a valve seal isn't working as designed to prevent backflow. The pic on the right is a bit hard to see. Can you re-post 2-3 pics that we can see better and/or zoom in a little better? Also, is the equipment pad at the same height as the pool, or is there a significant elevation difference?
The equipment pad is lower than the pool level. Here's the pics.
 

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The pics won't let us zoom, in, but I'm not seeing any automation or check valve. Just your standard manual 3-way valves. Nothing fancy on the pad. So unless @Jimrahbe sees something I don't, I suspect there is an air break in the system (air getting in) when you shut the system down which is allowing the water to move. Air can seep-in from places like the pump lid, drain plugs, pressure gauge, 3-way valve seals, or just a bad connection somewhere. You might have to watch & listen carefully for any such signs, or open some connections and apply some fresh lube. But let's give Jim a chance to review your pics as well.
 
The pics won't let us zoom, in, but I'm not seeing any automation or check valve. Just your standard manual 3-way valves. Nothing fancy on the pad. So unless @Jimrahbe sees something I don't, I suspect there is an air break in the system (air getting in) when you shut the system down which is allowing the water to move. Air can seep-in from places like the pump lid, drain plugs, pressure gauge, 3-way valve seals, or just a bad connection somewhere. You might have to watch & listen carefully for any such signs, or open some connections and apply some fresh lube. But let's give Jim a chance to review your pics as well.
Correct - no automation. Yes, only two 3-way valves. The attached pic shows where the check valve is. I just replaced with a new flapper yesterday.
 

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Do I have the valves set properly for normal pool operation so that I have circulation from the pool returns AND a decent amount of water spilling over the spa when the pool is running?
Vik,

If the pics show the two valves in the Pool Mode, then they are set correctly. You have no way to control the amount of spillover into you pool as there is no control valve, just the check valve. It is possible that the Jandy valve after the heater is leaking. It would also cause the spa to drain down.

Tell us more about your comment "a decent amount of water spilling over the spa"?? Since you have no way to control it, you should have a very large spillover, what do you have now?

Thanks,

Jim R.

Check valve3.jpg
 
The attached pic shows where the check valve is. I just replaced with a new flapper yesterday.
Sorry, I missed that. Was the spa draining-out before the new check valve was installed yesterday? Also, ( I have to ask) you confirmed the check valve was installed in the correct direction? :)

I see Jim's back so I'll let him run with this.
 

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Vik,

If the pics show the two valves in the Pool Mode, then they are set correctly. You have no way to control the amount of spillover into you pool as there is no control valve, just the check valve. It is possible that the Jandy valve after the heater is leaking. It would also cause the spa to drain down.

Tell us more about your comment "a decent amount of water spilling over the spa"?? Since you have no way to control it, you should have a very large spillover, what do you have now?

Thanks,

Jim R.

View attachment 405376
Thank you for the diagram. I just replaced the flapper in the check valve yesterday. Do you think I should get new Jandy valve kit for the valve in front of the heater? My spa spillover is trickling over - not a sheet of water as it's done in the past. I'm posting a pic - hope it shows it.
 

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Sorry, I missed that. Was the spa draining-out before the new check valve was installed yesterday? Also, ( I have to ask) you confirmed the check valve was installed in the correct direction? :)

I see Jim's back so I'll let him run with this.
Yes it's been doing that since we moved in the house in 2014. Every year, I try my best to figure out what to do next. I've had a couple of pool companies come out - 1 put a shut off valve on and said I had to manually turn it every night! Then a second one came and took that off and replaced the check valve. The spa still drained - called the guy who put in the check valve. His response was 'gravity makes it impossible to stop it.' Others I've called just don't show up. I HOPE I installed it right - I'm attaching a pic - the yellow line shows where I installed the flap - at the front where the water first comes into the check valve.
 

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vik,

If you installed the hinge where the yellow line is, then you installed it correctly.

If this were my pool, I'd rebuild the 3-way valve after the heater. It might not fix it, but it can't hurt anything, and it is one of the things that can cause the problem.

Since there is no way to adjust the flow of your spillover and you have a single speed pump, you should have all kinds of water flowing back to your spa. It could as simple as your filter being very dirty. It could also be that the 3-way valve after the heater is actually broken inside. This could partially block the water going to your pool returns as well as your spillover. I suggest that you pop that valve open and see what it looks like.

Thanks,

Jim R.


1651333761407.png
 
vik,

If you installed the hinge where the yellow line is, then you installed it correctly.

If this were my pool, I'd rebuild the 3-way valve after the heater. It might not fix it, but it can't hurt anything, and it is one of the things that can cause the problem.

Since there is no way to adjust the flow of your spillover and you have a single speed pump, you should have all kinds of water flowing back to your spa. It could as simple as your filter being very dirty. It could also be that the 3-way valve after the heater is actually broken inside. This could partially block the water going to your pool returns as well as your spillover. I suggest that you pop that valve open and see what it looks like.

Thanks,

Jim R.


View attachment 405409
Thanks! I'll take a look at it. And clean the pump filter. You guys are the BEST!!! I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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Thanks! I'll take a look at it. And clean the pump filter. You guys are the BEST!!! I'll let you know how it goes.
I replaced the flapper on the three-way valve just in front of the heater yesterday. I noticed a huge difference when I turned the valve. I can tell it fits much tighter (good thing) when I turn it. The spa still drained to the jets last night. I'm going to rebuild the intake three-way valve in front of the pump when the part comes this week. I've found no air leaks on the suction side. I have a dumb question now: when the water is draining from the spa into the pool when the pump is off, is it draining from the spa jets or from the bottom spa drain? Also, am I correct to assume there is no underground pipe leak on either suction side (no pressure problem or air in salt generator, pump filter, or coming out of pool returns) or return side (water level is stable)? I'm spitting into the wind at this point.
 
Vik,

When the spa drains down to just below the jets, when the pump is off, it is almost always the check valve in the spa return line..

That would be the check valve that you circled in red in your above pics.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jim, attached is a screenshot from when I ordered the entire check valve and two check valve covers w/ flappers. I just installed the new cover about a week and 1/2 ago. Is the entire check valve just a POS? (If I haven't said it already, I can't say it enough - your willingness to help is amazing - and SO much appreciated! I can see on this forum how much you've helped so many people. Santa should be EXTRA nice to you EVERY year!)
 

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Vik,

In theory, replacing the flapper should fix the issue. But if where the flapper seats is worn or has glue drops, it can cause the check valve to not seal.

Normally, the line with the check valve should have a manual Jandy valve that lets you control the amount of spillover. If you had that valve, you could shut it off and see if the drain down problem went away. If it did, you know for sure that the check valve is bad.

Without that valve, about the only thing you can do is take a little flashlight and look though the top and see if you can see the leak.

I'd double check the flapper seal..

You could take off the entire check valve top, including the seal and then block the pipe with a blow up plumbing block as a test. If the leak down went away, you'd know for sure that the problem was the check valve. Like this.. You need to get the size for you pipes.. either 2" or 1.5"

1652027741795.png
Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Vik,

In theory, replacing the flapper should fix the issue. But if where the flapper seats is worn or has glue drops, it can cause the check valve to not seal.

Normally, the line with the check valve should have a manual Jandy valve that lets you control the amount of spillover. If you had that valve, you could shut it off and see if the drain down problem went away. If it did, you know for sure that the check valve is bad.

Without that valve, about the only thing you can do is take a little flashlight and look though the top and see if you can see the leak.

I'd double check the flapper seal..

You could take off the entire check valve top, including the seal and then block the pipe with a blow up plumbing block as a test. If the leak down went away, you'd know for sure that the problem was the check valve. Like this.. You need to get the size for you pipes.. either 2" or 1.5"

View attachment 407976
Thanks,

Jim R.
Jim, I don't have a third Jandy valve to control the spillover separately. I'll get one of these plugs and insert it where the check valve and leave it in with the pump off overnight to see if the spa level still goes down. I'll report back once I get the plug and insert it. Thanks for your suggestions!
 

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