Received my iron tester today. Here are my results today, CYA 60, FC 24, CC 1, PH 7.5, TA 210 blue shifts to light yellow, CH 230 and after testing 2x the iron tested 0ppm. Waiting on Copper tester for TFP's stock was out. Water looks better today than the last few days; big change from green/brown/to light green, at the very least I can sort of see the bottom in the 6' deep end but the staining is light orange. While I am slamming and waiting for clear water I see much improvement in my turtle mosaics and toe tile grout due to the blk algae that attached to the grout. I am brushing those areas as much as I can without getting in the H20 and changing/cleaning filter 2xday . After the iron test today, it's telling me that I must have copper in pool, we'll see when the copper tester arrives. Question: could the copper come from the heater? I guess we can discuss this after the slam process which will probably be over with this coming weekend. Just wanted to check in for any fears that I am not doing this right?
Sort of Newbie, just fixed leak in return
- Thread starter Jaxon
- Start date
Copper could be coming from anywhere really, old furniture, you name it. If its an old heater it could be degrading, but if its new its more then likely cupronickel.
You have tried these stains with Vit C correct?
You have tried these stains with Vit C correct?
Oh yes, I use ascorbic acid and it works almost immediately but I constantly battle with this staining. My heater is only 3 1/2 yrs old. On the last AA a return broke and the water emptied out over night. Couldn't filter or bring the CL back up again so I ended up with this mess while waiting for the leak detector crew and then another wait for the crew to repair. They did an excellent job though. I should have put CL in the pool at the time but didn't think much about it till I could finally fill my pool back up with our good ole well water that I have always blamed on the staining.
OCLT test passed this morning. Results are FC 25 (last night was 23 and added CL to top off before retiring), CC .50, PH 7.5, TA 210 (high!) CH 200, CYA 50 (not sure why this lowered ?), water looks pretty good but not sparkling even though I do have mesh cover on to keep leaves off which does make it tough to see the whole pool and have kept deep end unhooked for the slam. No copper test yet for minerals but do know I need to do the AA when FC levels come down to shock level.
Question: on the TA do I just need to keep adding MA to keep PH at 7.00 and aerate aerate aerate to lower TA while FC declines? The pool doesn't get used much for there's just 2 of us and the spa weather has finally arrived for our weekend soaks. I have the filter running 24/7 in 3 separate timeframes ranging from RPM's 1553, to 2070 to 2243.
Question: on the TA do I just need to keep adding MA to keep PH at 7.00 and aerate aerate aerate to lower TA while FC declines? The pool doesn't get used much for there's just 2 of us and the spa weather has finally arrived for our weekend soaks. I have the filter running 24/7 in 3 separate timeframes ranging from RPM's 1553, to 2070 to 2243.
The MA will lower ph and TA at the same time, the TA will be slower. Once ph gets at 7.0 you will aerate to get it back up again, repeat until TA is where you want it.
Does not sound like you did the OCLT exactly correct. You should test after any chlorine addition in the evening.
There is no need to actively try to lower the TA. You could instead just keep the pH in the correct range and the TA should slowly correct itself (unless your fill water TA is very high in which case you will have to just live with high TA).
That is also likely way more pump run time than is needed ... now that the SLAM appears to be complete.
There is no need to actively try to lower the TA. You could instead just keep the pH in the correct range and the TA should slowly correct itself (unless your fill water TA is very high in which case you will have to just live with high TA).
That is also likely way more pump run time than is needed ... now that the SLAM appears to be complete.
I'm confused...I realize my CYA decreased by 10 basis points and not really sure why. Sometimes the light strains my eyes when looking into the vial as well as counting those drops without any interruptions on the SpeedStir. Am I to start over for I thought if the FC level stayed without changing overnight, the CC level is at a .05 for I only needed to add 1 drop to the mix and the water is clear the slam would be over. Do I test again tonight and test again in the early morning without adding any more bleach? BTW: Thanks for staying with me...
When you added chlorine last night did you check the FC level after 20 mins or so to see where the FC level was ? Then in the morning before the sun hits the pool check FC and if you lose more than 1 ppm it's a fail. If you lose 1 ppm or less it's a pass. You need to know exactly what the FC level is the night before.
Also water looking pretty good I question. It has to be crystal clear.?
Also water looking pretty good I question. It has to be crystal clear.?
O, now I understand. I'll do this right now, add if I need to based on my cya and check it again in 20 minutes and then check it again in the morning. I didn't know about the 20 minutes afterwards....also didn't know about the crystal clear...hard to tell with mesh cover but will do something different tomorrow. glad I replied. thank you!
Gosh, now my CYA is 40, FC 25 and CC 1. Didn't add any Bleach and wasn't planning on shocking for mustard algae which is what my tests prove right now. Getting frustrated, it's been a long week. I am pretty sure this is correct now for I carefully took tests several times to insure I got the same results a couple of times. My speedy stirrer magnet hangs up on me in the tube which flusters me so....must need a battery changeover. I was soooo on top of this all week long.
Don't get frustrated, your doing fine.
Remember the three criteria to pass to stop the SLAM.
Crystal clear water
CC of 0.5
Pass the OCLT the way I stated.
Also you don't have to test CYA every time. Waste of reagents.
Keep asking questions as needed. ?
Remember the three criteria to pass to stop the SLAM.
Crystal clear water
CC of 0.5
Pass the OCLT the way I stated.
Also you don't have to test CYA every time. Waste of reagents.
Keep asking questions as needed. ?
6:30 am FC climbed abit to 27 and CC 1. took the test 2X. How do you clean the vials? There's black dots in the vial that don't clean out with dish washing liquid
nevermind on the vials...read to soak them in bleach. Just need a reply to the test this morning, didn't add any clorine last night due to high FC level. Pool uncovered right now, appears to be crystal clean but the walls are stained from the well water, deep end looks green and spa is orangey. when can i assume to do the AA treatment after this slam process; when I am at shock level?
Here are today's results: FC 19.50, CC .05, PH 7.5, TA 170 (we've been aerating to bring it down), CYA 50, CH 210, Iron 0 and Copper 0.3. The pool is orangey stained but crystal clear and today I sprinkled just a tad bit of AA in the 4 man spa (combination pool spa) just to see if the water was in fact sparkling and yes it is. I'd like to bring up my CH level but probably should wait till I am at shock level, right? I am expecting a delivery of AA this week in hopes to rid the pool of the copper stain and will follow the forum instructions on the AA treatment. Hopefully I can rid the stain with TFP's protocol. Worries me so that I could go backwards but we are trusting TFP's forum. Thanks for all your help!