Once you get it up and running, and you really understand how it behaves, every 2-3 days would be enough.elenaran said:
Soon-to-be Pool Owner - Any General Advice?
- Thread starter elenaran
- Start date
elenaran said:
When we first got the pool I was testing like a mad man. Then once things settled in I went to once a week in the summer and once a month in the winter. You'll find your grove and fall right into it. Like mentioned before eyes and ears are the first indicators. The way the pump sounds when the basket is full or a puff of green when brushing the hard to reach places. Dont let it be a bother, enjoy the pride and ownership that comes with keeping your pool the cleanest on the block.
Another one: obviously I'll need to be vigilant with the pool rake to stay on top of those trees, but I read a lot of talk about people vacuuming and brushing. Is regular vacuuming/brushing even needed if you have an automatic pool cleaner? Obviously if you have algae, you might need to attack it with that stuff, but I'm talking about for a balanced clear pool.
If there is any evidence that there is still debris in the pool that might cause stains after some reasonable period of time of running the pool cleaner. I will guess that if 3 hours does not clean the pool, get out the rake or vac and get it clean.
We did not brush the pool for 4 years. Now that I see what the surface looked like, it may be that I could have avoided the resurfacing had I been brushing weekly. Going forward, the pool will be brushed each week, whether I see any need or not. I know that when I had aquariums, I scrubbed to keep the bio-film from forming, under which algae would begin to grow. Since I ran the pool cleaner so much I told myself that it did the brushing for me. I think that was wrong. Should have been brushing.
We did not brush the pool for 4 years. Now that I see what the surface looked like, it may be that I could have avoided the resurfacing had I been brushing weekly. Going forward, the pool will be brushed each week, whether I see any need or not. I know that when I had aquariums, I scrubbed to keep the bio-film from forming, under which algae would begin to grow. Since I ran the pool cleaner so much I told myself that it did the brushing for me. I think that was wrong. Should have been brushing.
Also, if it's a DE filter, does that mean anytime I need to backwash I have to add DE after?
Yes. Add about 80% of the recommended full amount since backwashing does not remove it all.
At least once a year, it is good to break the filter down and thoroughly clean the grids.
Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
At least once a year, it is good to break the filter down and thoroughly clean the grids.
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Wherever the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure. If the filter is properly sized and you have more debris, that could be once a year.
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This is the log I keep on the pool. I just print it up and keep it inside my TF-100 test box ready to go. I've customized my goals to my pool which has an automatic cover, so my goals might not be the same as yours. But its easily tweaked if you like it.
Called their pool builder and got a little more info:
14,700 gallons
Hayward Pro-Grid DE Filter - 60sqft
400,000 BTU Hayward heater
Jandy valves
Goldline actuator
Hayward Viper Turbo (don't see much info on this online)
Aquapod remote
Those sound decent? Anything else I should ask about?
14,700 gallons
Hayward Pro-Grid DE Filter - 60sqft
400,000 BTU Hayward heater
Jandy valves
Goldline actuator
Hayward Viper Turbo (don't see much info on this online)
Aquapod remote
Those sound decent? Anything else I should ask about?
For 15k gallons, we would recommend at least a 42 sqft DE filter, so the 60 is plenty big. You could likely also get by with the 48 (not sure how much money that would save).
What is the pump info?
Please add your pool details (even if hypothetical at this point) and location as described HERE as it will help us help you.
What is the pump info?
Please add your pool details (even if hypothetical at this point) and location as described HERE as it will help us help you.
Heh, I figured I should wait until I actually close on the house before I added it to the sig, but here you go:
also, the pumps are 2hp, the surface is StoneScapes midnight blue and the SWG is an AquaRite (no idea which size cell)
With your log in hand have the current owners walk you through the operation of everything and take notes and pictures
They supposedly have a big notebook they've made with notes on the pool they're giving me. Also, I plan on having their pool service guy walk me through all the equipment.
Taking ownership of the house and a TF kit within the next few days. A question on testing:
I've read that it's best to test the CYA in mid-afternoon in bright sun (back to the sun, etc), but then I've also read it's best to take FC readings when the sun is down (so no FC loss to UV). Do you really split the test up and only do part during the day and part at night?
What about pH and CH? Does it matter when they're taken?
I've read that it's best to test the CYA in mid-afternoon in bright sun (back to the sun, etc), but then I've also read it's best to take FC readings when the sun is down (so no FC loss to UV). Do you really split the test up and only do part during the day and part at night?
What about pH and CH? Does it matter when they're taken?
If I'm doing an overnight chlorine loss test (OCLT) then I do the FC test after the sun is off the water and again before the sun is on the water the next day. Otherwise I just do it whenever I'm doing the other tests.
Not sure where you read that about the FC but it is not exactly true.
Just make sure the pump has been on for at least an hour and then you can test everything (except the CYA which is best in the afternoon, but you should not need to test that very often, every month or so maybe).
Just take a sample of water from as deep as you can reach and take it in the house to do all your testing (except for CYA).
Just make sure the pump has been on for at least an hour and then you can test everything (except the CYA which is best in the afternoon, but you should not need to test that very often, every month or so maybe).
Just take a sample of water from as deep as you can reach and take it in the house to do all your testing (except for CYA).
OK, moved in and did my first test with the TF100:
Temp: 75F
pH: ~7.8
CYA: 30
FC: 5.3
CC: 0
CH: 400
TA: ~100 - Honestly this is the one I had the most trouble with. It went from a very pale green to a very pale yellow (I guess from my relatively high FC level). It was probably somewhere in the 90-120 range, but couldn't really tell exactly with it being so pale.
Borates: 0-15 - I doubt there are any in there, but it wasn't as bright pink as the "0" example.
Salt: The SWG says it's 2600, but the Aquachek strips say it's 1560. I guess go with the SWG number??
For practice, I also tested the fill water:
pH: 7.5
FC: 0.2
CC: 1.5
TA: 90
CH: 220
I think first order of business is to get some more CYA in the pool to get it up to around 80, then I can see how the FC does and adjust the SWG level. After that I'll work on the TA (which should hopefully be easier to read then).
Thoughts?
Temp: 75F
pH: ~7.8
CYA: 30
FC: 5.3
CC: 0
CH: 400
TA: ~100 - Honestly this is the one I had the most trouble with. It went from a very pale green to a very pale yellow (I guess from my relatively high FC level). It was probably somewhere in the 90-120 range, but couldn't really tell exactly with it being so pale.
Borates: 0-15 - I doubt there are any in there, but it wasn't as bright pink as the "0" example.
Salt: The SWG says it's 2600, but the Aquachek strips say it's 1560. I guess go with the SWG number??
For practice, I also tested the fill water:
pH: 7.5
FC: 0.2
CC: 1.5
TA: 90
CH: 220
I think first order of business is to get some more CYA in the pool to get it up to around 80, then I can see how the FC does and adjust the SWG level. After that I'll work on the TA (which should hopefully be easier to read then).
Thoughts?