solar heater advice needed

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So I went up top and got some close up pics of my rooftop. it turns out the woodshake is only 7.5" high, with a wood frame probably would be under 1'. the patio top lowest is 1' and highest is 2'.
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I have thought about dropping down to 4 panels, but wouldnt your suggested picture work by going 4->3->5->2->1?

Isaac-1 said:
My best plumbing thought on this is likely to be 4,1,2,3,5 with the hot return line being from the highest corner on 5 and the cold inlet feed being the lowest point on 4, would require raising 3 and the lower part of 5 to be at the same height as 1 and 2. this might also allow 3 and 5 to be at the same level if the low side of 5 were also elevated on a rack. If this is not possible, plumbing might get complicated. Am I correct in reading that the patio roof does slope where the top of the panel is higher than the bottom, but the white roof is flat and the right side only of panel 5 would be elevated?

If the high side of panel 5 is at or lower than the highest point on panel 2 I think this would work:
Vacuum breaker should probably go a open cold corner
Click to expand...
 
next questions on plumbing and controlling -
1. Do i need a new pump if I go for automation with something like this GL-235 kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLDLINE-SO...583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ea6c7a9b7? my pump is pretty old 1 speed and currently being used with a manual timer.
2. check valve = prevent backward flow. ball isolation valve = can manually close the valve both ways blocking the pipe. what is an isolation check valve as per aquatherm manuaL? trying to see which valves to buy.
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That layout should work, but my concern is you have said your shingles need to be replaced soon, so do you really want to put a panel over them, then have to remove it to replace the shingles in a year or two.

As to valves, I would certainly include a pair of isolation valves (this way if it springs a leak you can isolate and keep the pump running), as well as 2 check valves, and a pair of drain valves one on each side (you could blow air in one side since you have a flat roof to get the water out in case of potential freeze)

As to the pump if it were me I would try the current one and replace if needed later.

Ike

p.s. note you may want to get a 2 speed motor for your old pump for better economy if the wet end is still good.
 
yeah plan to replace the woodshake roof in 5 years, i was thinking if it's just 1 panel it wouldnt be too bad to remove but then there's plumbing connected.
no idea how good the pump is it looks kinda rusted outside through the years even though it's located inside a little storage house but i'm gonna try to use it.
going to get the valves you suggested, and perhaps 2 thermometers. are pressure gauge/flow meter important to get? i am going for 2" pvcs with only 4/5 panels.
also contemplating the $259 GL-235 controller kit (is this any good?), but then I don't know how it could be hooked up turn on my pump automatically.
 
I would not worry with thermometers, if you want them, then upgrade to a controller with a digital display like the one I have, which is a Hayward Gold Line Aqua Solar AQ-SOL-LV-TC or any of the AQ-SOL family. The GL-235 is Haywards entry level no bells and whistles solar controller (basically and on/off switch and a knob that can be set for warmer or cooler with no feedback display), I have never heard anything bad about them, $259 is pretty good if that includes the 3 way valve, actuator, 2 temperature sensors and the controller, but it can be found a bit cheaper the best price I could spot on it was about http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hayward-Goldlin ... vi-content $240 (ebay) -$250 (search on the combo code GLC-2P solar). The Aqua Solar models add separate LV relays, optional built in timer, can operate a main pump as well as a booster pump when in solar mode (or can be rigged like mine to switch a 2 speed pump from low to high by using a 3rd party relay).

Ike

p.s. I would say pressure gauge mounted on the solar loop after the actuator valve is important, professional installers often use one in set up, then remove it. Flow meter is nice, but not a must have, and can be pricey.
 
caycarem said:
Smid87, there are little plugs you can stick inside those holes to stop water from going through them preventing leaks. not an expert but you can google solar panel repair kits.
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Thank you I will look into them. In the mean time, I have 5 100' coils of 1/2" poly pipe inside that plastic covered wood contraption. It gets to 150 degrees on a nice sunny day and I have seen the pool rise 8 degrees with full sun. It would be really cool to get those other two panels back into the set up as we get some cold nights here, even in June. Last night it was in the 50's and it rained yesterday and only got to around 60 :grrrr:
 

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For a solar controller I recently changed to the Pentair Solar Touch. $249 at http://www.sunplay.com/Pentair-SolarTouch-Control-System-521592-p/521592.htm with free shipping. It comes with both sensors, a three-way valve, and actuator. I may switch to a Pentair pump in the future and this unit gives many control options. After I installed it I found that it will work with and control any brand pump, but it does interface well with Pentair's other pool automation systems. All my other equipment is Hayward and it all works together great.

I'm very happy with the level of control it provides and the price. The cost of the sensors and actuator if bought separately would nearly equal or exceed the cost of the system.
 
tempting price, I might have to bite...how is the pentair's reliability?
chiefwej said:
For a solar controller I recently changed to the Pentair Solar Touch. $249 at http://www.sunplay.com/Pentair-SolarTouch-Control-System-521592-p/521592.htm with free shipping. It comes with both sensors, a three-way valve, and actuator. I may switch to a Pentair pump in the future and this unit gives many control options. After I installed it I found that it will work with and control any brand pump, but it does interface well with Pentair's other pool automation systems. All my other equipment is Hayward and it all works together great.

I'm very happy with the level of control it provides and the price. The cost of the sensors and actuator if bought separately would nearly equal or exceed the cost of the system.
Click to expand...
 
It's my first season with this control, so I can't speak to reliability. But I am thrilled with the level of control it gives. You can calibrate the sensors to agree with your water temp and control the operation of the solar system within one degree. It provides for freeze control, cooling operation, will control two actuators and two pumps and will interface with other Pentair automation.
 
You can get common hose bib (garden hose) valves at most hardware stores for about $5 and you can get 1.5 inch PVC T fittings where the T is a threaded 3/4 or 1/2 inch fitting that will mate with the common hose bib valves.
 
so far almost $1300...this is going to be over my $1500 budget :( I hope my wife will think it'll be worth it or i might have to be sleeping next to the pool filter!

5 Elm 2" panels + system kit + 5 panel kits + elbow pvcs= $600 (craigslist)
3 elm row spacer kits = $135 (ebay)
solar touch controller = $249 (sunplay)
solar cover 16x32 12mil + reel = $255 (amazon)
2 check valves + ball valves = $57 (amazon)

next to buy:
wood to make a 4x12 frame
garden bib + T pvc
plumbing stuff, ~10 of 10' PVCs 2" to run to and from filter ->roof, PVCs for panel connections, glue? other fittings?
not sure if anything else?
 

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