I'm new to this forum. I have a salt water pool and had my pool water tested today at a hardware store that sells pool supplies. The resulting print out said I needed to add one quart of Sodium Hypochlorite. A sales clerk couldn't find Sodium Hypochlorite and sold me a quart of Muriatic Acid instead. He said it was the same thing and would produce the same results. I'm no chemist, but I'm rather doubtful of his advise. Can anyone give me correct directions before I add the Muriatic Acid to my pool?
Sodium Hypochlorite vs Muriatic Acid
- Thread starter Robert H R
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!!
Well, Sodium Hypochlorite is bleach/chlorine. No, muratic acid does not replace chlorine.
Check out these articles to give you more information on maintaining your water:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
You really should be doing your own water testing. I recommend you Order a TF100. That will give you what you need for a couple of years normal use.
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.
I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. They speed testing and accuracy.
Well, Sodium Hypochlorite is bleach/chlorine. No, muratic acid does not replace chlorine.
Check out these articles to give you more information on maintaining your water:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
You really should be doing your own water testing. I recommend you Order a TF100. That will give you what you need for a couple of years normal use.
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.
I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. They speed testing and accuracy.
Run as fast as you can from that store and NEVER EVER go back in there. Those two are so far opposite as to be laughable.
You should not add anything AT ALL to your pool until you find out what's in it. I suggest you invest in your own good test kit and start by reading "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. It will explain the differences in the chemistry we think is important.
You should not add anything AT ALL to your pool until you find out what's in it. I suggest you invest in your own good test kit and start by reading "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. It will explain the differences in the chemistry we think is important.
Thanks for the feedback. I thought the Muriatic acid substitution was wrong & you confirmed. As for testing, I was considering purchase of an electronic, digital pool water test kit and I'm considering the LaMotte 2056 Color Q Pro 7 Digital test kit which I found on Amazon. Does anyone have experience with this particular testing device or does anyone have recommendations? Thanks again!
Hi Neighbor,
Neither one of those test kits you mention are very good.
There are 2 test kits which I would recomened. All of us here on TFP have one or the other. They are drop type titration test kits.
The TF100, available only at TFTestkits.net and Pool Supplies, Spa Supplies and Parts
the Tayloer K2006, available at lots of places on line as well as TF testkits.
Of the 2, the TF100 is a little bit more up front, but the chemical bottles are bigger and you dont have to order refills as often, so its the best bang for the buck.
Neither one of those test kits you mention are very good.
There are 2 test kits which I would recomened. All of us here on TFP have one or the other. They are drop type titration test kits.
The TF100, available only at TFTestkits.net and Pool Supplies, Spa Supplies and Parts
the Tayloer K2006, available at lots of places on line as well as TF testkits.
Of the 2, the TF100 is a little bit more up front, but the chemical bottles are bigger and you dont have to order refills as often, so its the best bang for the buck.
I have both the Lamotte ColorQ Pro 7 and the TF100 test kits. I really like the Lamotte from an ease of use perspective and have only recently been testing with the TF100. Over the past few days, I have been using both testers to compare the results since I installed a Stenner Pump system and am checking the water a few times a day anyway.
Here are my last 4 days test results:
Day 1:
Lamotte - FCL=5.88, TCL=5.96, PH=7.4, TA=76, CH=222, CYA=59
TF-100 - FCL=8.0, TCL=8.0, PH=7.5, TA=90, CH=375, CYA=45
Day 2:
Lamotte - FCL=6.36, TCL=6.47, PH=7.3, TA=69, CH=221, CYA=63
TF-100 - FCL=9.5, TCL=9.5, PH=7.4, TA=90, CH=350, CYA=45
Day 3:
Lamotte - FCL=6.65, TCL=6.79, PH=7.5, TA=66, CH=216, CYA=58
TF-100 - FCL=10.0, TCL=10.0, PH=7.7, TA=80, CH=350, CYA=40
Day 4:
Lamotte - FCL=6.81, TCL=6.81, PH=7.3, TA=59, CH=221, CYA=62
TF-100 - FCL=9.0, TCL=9.0, PH=7.4, TA=70, CH=325, CYA=40
You can see that the Lamotte is reading consistently lower than the TF-100 for Chlorine, TA and CH and consistently higher on CYA. Based on all that I have read on this forum, the Lamotte is not as accurate (as far as correctness in reading) than what the TF-100 gives due to the testing method. Once my chlorine level comes down a bit, the two testers may come more in line with each other, but I'm leaning towards believing the TF-100 over the Lamotte results. I find the Lamotte useful in that the testing is super quick and since I know that is reads higher or lower on some tests, I can still use it as a quick and dirty way to detect upward or downward drift in the various levels and use the TF-100 when I need actionable results.
Here are my last 4 days test results:
Day 1:
Lamotte - FCL=5.88, TCL=5.96, PH=7.4, TA=76, CH=222, CYA=59
TF-100 - FCL=8.0, TCL=8.0, PH=7.5, TA=90, CH=375, CYA=45
Day 2:
Lamotte - FCL=6.36, TCL=6.47, PH=7.3, TA=69, CH=221, CYA=63
TF-100 - FCL=9.5, TCL=9.5, PH=7.4, TA=90, CH=350, CYA=45
Day 3:
Lamotte - FCL=6.65, TCL=6.79, PH=7.5, TA=66, CH=216, CYA=58
TF-100 - FCL=10.0, TCL=10.0, PH=7.7, TA=80, CH=350, CYA=40
Day 4:
Lamotte - FCL=6.81, TCL=6.81, PH=7.3, TA=59, CH=221, CYA=62
TF-100 - FCL=9.0, TCL=9.0, PH=7.4, TA=70, CH=325, CYA=40
You can see that the Lamotte is reading consistently lower than the TF-100 for Chlorine, TA and CH and consistently higher on CYA. Based on all that I have read on this forum, the Lamotte is not as accurate (as far as correctness in reading) than what the TF-100 gives due to the testing method. Once my chlorine level comes down a bit, the two testers may come more in line with each other, but I'm leaning towards believing the TF-100 over the Lamotte results. I find the Lamotte useful in that the testing is super quick and since I know that is reads higher or lower on some tests, I can still use it as a quick and dirty way to detect upward or downward drift in the various levels and use the TF-100 when I need actionable results.
I used a Lamotte Color Q several years ago. After a few months it was evident that I couldn't trust the numbers it produced. Tests performed 5 minutes apart using the same source of sample water had substantially different results and I was super diligent about cleaning and drying the outside of their special square shaped test tubes. I ended up having to perform multiple tests every time to make sure my first test wasn't a fluke. Drop testing is just as fast and generally, very repeatable.
You can't go wrong with a TF100 and Speedstir. Best investment I ever made concerning my pool. Quick and easy.
I appreciate everyone's comments. I believe I'll go with the TF100. The information you all provided is very useful. Thanks!