Slooooowly I turn, step by step...

[wmorton1]

The CYA should stay very stable in your pool. Testing and adjusting in the spring startup and then once or twice more during the season should do it.

The reagent is available directly from Taylor, some local pool stores carry it, and TFTestkits sells it online.

Hi DaveS:
Since the CYA should stay very stable, do you recommend draining the pool later say in a couple of months or so?

I saw a few websites that carry the reagents such as PoolWeb and thePoolandSpaHouse as well as TFTestkits, Leslie's and others. I was looking for a larger size than 2-2oz = 4 oz. Just trying to maximize/optimize my expenses based on the anticipated number of CYA tests to carry out.

Bill

 

[wmorton1]

[/quote]I check it once per month in the summer. To me summer means May - September. I don't even check my CYA the rest of the year. The temperature cools, there is less evaporation and the CYA stays very stable during the rest of the year. I purchase my kits and refills from duraleigh's website. It's the best deal. Also, I utilize Leslie's to double check my CYA readings. I happen to have a very good Leslie's nearby and they use good products to test and I've not had a problem.
The pool store that I purchase my 12% liquid chlorine from - I wouldn't trust ever to test my water. Sounds odd, but it's true.[/quote]

The Leslie's here used to be reliable but people moved on and now we have people that are not to familiar with what to do. In my previous posts, I stated I went full circle listening to the Leslie's suggestions and spent a lot of money, which I did tell them...I could kick my self for buying and using copper algaecide...live and learn. I believe I am going in the right direction now as well as many experienced pool owners supplying consistent and validated suggestions. Clorox bleach seemed to work from the very beginning as I have not found a pool place local that carries a higher % of the active ingredient needed to suppress algae growth. Once I do locate some supplier, I can weigh the costs between Clorox from Sam's versus the other liquid bleach places.

 

[PaulR]

If you really want to know your CYA level and you're willing to burn more R-0013, you can test using a sample that's 1/2 pool water 1/2 tap water, and then double whatever the reading is.

Hi PaulR:
Thanks for the feedback. I assume that the determination of the CYA level that you mentioned is the dilution method, right? If so I was wondering about how to do that, thank you.

Yes, that's the dilution method. The amount of dilution determines how much to multiply by. Half-and-half means multiply by two; 1/3 pool water and 2/3 not, multiply by 3; and so on. Each dilution increases the uncertainty of the test so diluting by more than 3 usually isn't worthwhile.

For any diluted test, you dilute with something that doesn't have whatever you're testing for. Tap water never has CYA so that's easy. If you're diluting for a DPD (red drop) or OTO (yellow drop) chlorine test then you need chlorine-free water, which tap water usually is not; distilled water is probably the easiest source.
--paulr

 

[wmorton1]

If you really want to know your CYA level and you're willing to burn more R-0013, you can test using a sample that's 1/2 pool water 1/2 tap water, and then double whatever the reading is.

Hi PaulR:
Thanks for the feedback. I assume that the determination of the CYA level that you mentioned is the dilution method, right? If so I was wondering about how to do that, thank you.

Yes, that's the dilution method. The amount of dilution determines how much to multiply by. Half-and-half means multiply by two; 1/3 pool water and 2/3 not, multiply by 3; and so on. Each dilution increases the uncertainty of the test so diluting by more than 3 usually isn't worthwhile.

For any diluted test, you dilute with something that doesn't have whatever you're testing for. Tap water never has CYA so that's easy. If you're diluting for a DPD (red drop) or OTO (yellow drop) chlorine test then you need chlorine-free water, which tap water usually is not; distilled water is probably the easiest source.
--paulr

Thanks PaulR!
I am learning something new after each post :-D

 

[wmorton1]

Pool FC level is at 11 (taken at 8:00 PM). Water currently very clear...waiting for morning FC test. Waiting with bated breath :|

 

[wmorton1]

Pool FC level is at 11 (taken at 8:00 PM). Water currently very clear...waiting for morning FC test. Waiting with bated breath :|

This morning the FC was at 9 and the CC at .5...it appears that I need to bring up the FC level to shock and with my high estimated 110 CYA level, I am looking about three jugs (182 oz each) to go from 9 to 26. Does this sound about right regarding my next step? BTW, my pool does look great although I do see some patches of grayish or yellow stuff on the pool floor. :|

 

[PaulR]

Yes, that sounds right. And you should brush, too. Hopefully whatever it is will clear up quickly.
--paulr

 

[wmorton1]

I added the jugs of chlorine and brushed the pool tonight...I will check the FC tomorrow night and subsequently the morning after...

 

[wmorton1]

FC - 14.5
CC - 0.5
pH - 8.2
TA - 200
CYA - >100

20:30 MT
Will see what the FC and CC are tomorrow morning...

 

[Butterfly]

You need to lower your pH sooner rather than later!

As soon as your FC drops below 10 (or close) adjust your pH to around 7.4 ish.

Generally, keep your pH between 7.2 and 7.8. When it hits 7.8, lower it back to 7.2.

 

[wmorton1]

You need to lower your pH sooner rather than later!

As soon as your FC drops below 10 (or close) adjust your pH to around 7.4 ish.

Generally, keep your pH between 7.2 and 7.8. When it hits 7.8, lower it back to 7.2.

Will do...thank you.

 

[PaulR]

You need to lower your pH sooner rather than later!

As soon as your FC drops below 10 (or close) adjust your pH to around 7.4 ish.

Generally, keep your pH between 7.2 and 7.8. When it hits 7.8, lower it back to 7.2.

Will do...thank you.

Note that high FC makes the pH test unreliable. Last reported pH prior to shocking was 7.5. Definitely test again when the FC comes down but it's probably going to be okay.
--paulr

 

[wmorton1]

You need to lower your pH sooner rather than later!

As soon as your FC drops below 10 (or close) adjust your pH to around 7.4 ish.

Generally, keep your pH between 7.2 and 7.8. When it hits 7.8, lower it back to 7.2.

Will do...thank you.

Note that high FC makes the pH test unreliable. Last reported pH prior to shocking was 7.5. Definitely test again when the FC comes down but it's probably going to be okay.
--paulr

Thank you, will check later today...after I finish my yard work...
Bill