SLAMing but pool is getting greener and cloudier
- Thread starter francescl
- Start date
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Looks like it's getting there. The photos with the steps do a better job of judging cloudiness as it gives a reference for depth.
I didn't see much difference in the photos with the steps as far as cloudiness. I was trying to judge the "greenness". I wish I was more encouraged.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
From that panel in post #81 it looks like you are getting progressively bluer. I know it can be discouraging when the progress is slow but you're close. Hopefully that pool guy or his son will be out soon and if there's a problem with algae in the light or under the steps that will be taken care.
He's a good guy... so hopefully, yes, he will be out soon. He saved me from an unscrupulous pool company who said I had to replace my filter because it was leaking. I was fortunate enough to find my new guy who fixed it with an $80 part. The same unscrupulous company said that they replaced the hydrostatic pressure valve (last year we opened to an almost empty pool) but my new guy (using diving gear) checked it out and found that the old (and probably original) hydrostatic valve was still there. I could go on... needless to say our first 4 years of pool ownership have been tough.
My guy stopped by between jobs late this afternoon. What's baffling him is that the skimmers aren't drawing the way they should be (there's suction but stuff isn't being pulled into the basket). If you close one, the other one draws the way it should when both are open. He didn't think the problem was the filter because the pressure basically stayed the same when he recirculated. He thought that if something were in the pump, the pressure should go down instead of going up. Long story short he's coming back on Sunday (he has to go to a funeral out of town tomorrow and Saturday) and is going to take the pump apart to see if something is clogging it inside (we had bad cottonwood this year and there's a pine tree near the pool). He couldn't feel anything from the basket area. He's also going to open up the filter to make sure it's not gunked up.
Knock on wood that he finds the problem. The pool is slowly slowly slowly starting to look better but I can't keep this up all summer if he doesn't get the equipment up to snuff.
Knock on wood that he finds the problem. The pool is slowly slowly slowly starting to look better but I can't keep this up all summer if he doesn't get the equipment up to snuff.
It takes time, you will get there. I can see improvement in the step pictures. I've seen uglier pools go to crystal clear on here. It just takes persistence and patience.
sounds like good news from your pool guy. sometimes the sand in the filters start to channel. Ours did once. no biggie. he can fix that and you will be back in business.
Day 16: Almost there. Shallow end looks really good... barely cloudy. Deep end is still cloudy (maybe a tinge of green) but at least you can see the main drain. I've been brushing, putting in DE and backwashing a couple of times per day. Also putting in the automatic pool cleaner a couple of times per day to keep things stirred up. And of course, keeping it at SLAM shock level. Last night only lost .5 FC and 0 CC. My pool guy came by on Wednesday night and took the pump apart. He said that it was clean as a whistle. So that wasn't the problem. He said that the filter was OK also.
Couple of questions now that I am hopefully getting close to the end. Should I do a final shock at mustard shock level or just keep it at normal shock level til it passes the 3 tests? When should I put all of the toys, tools, etc. into the pool and for how long? I've read differing suggestions on different threads. Overnight? An hour or 2? And should I add some an algaecide (polyquat 60) after it's all cleared up.
Thanks for your help.
Couple of questions now that I am hopefully getting close to the end. Should I do a final shock at mustard shock level or just keep it at normal shock level til it passes the 3 tests? When should I put all of the toys, tools, etc. into the pool and for how long? I've read differing suggestions on different threads. Overnight? An hour or 2? And should I add some an algaecide (polyquat 60) after it's all cleared up.
Thanks for your help.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Algaecide isn't necessary. If you keep the pool at the proper daily maintenance target FC level for you CYA in the Chlorine/CYA chart http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock you will not get algae and dont' need a preventative.
Not sure on the toys ??
Wouldn't go to mustard level unless you actually thought you had it as there is no need.
Are you just backwashing a couple times a day or doing it as indicated by an increase in pressure as needing to be done ??
Not sure on the toys ??
Wouldn't go to mustard level unless you actually thought you had it as there is no need.
Are you just backwashing a couple times a day or doing it as indicated by an increase in pressure as needing to be done ??
My normal pressure is 21. I backwash when it gets up to 27 or 28. And since I've been adding the DE, it needs to be backwashed a couple of times per day.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If you haven't done it already, you might want to take the light out of the niche and give that a good scrubbing. Algae likes to hide in there.
I see no reason on why you would need to go to mustard algae SLAM levels.
Brush the pool daily and keep running the filter. Sand filters take the longest to clear a pool.
Brush the pool daily and keep running the filter. Sand filters take the longest to clear a pool.
It's looking pretty good. A little hazy in the deep, but at least it's blue and not green (or even blue-green) anymore. Adding the DE to the filter seems to have been the biggest help. I'll try to get the lights out but will probably have to call my pool guy for help with that.
Kiss4afrog commented that algaecide isn't necessary if I keep the FC levels up. My concern is that I might have to go out of town again in another week (just for 3 days). I am worried that my husband won't give the pool all of the attention that it needs and I may come back to another green pool. Would adding Polyquat 60 help if he is not as diligent as he should be? And if I do add it, is there a negative side to adding it?
Kiss4afrog commented that algaecide isn't necessary if I keep the FC levels up. My concern is that I might have to go out of town again in another week (just for 3 days). I am worried that my husband won't give the pool all of the attention that it needs and I may come back to another green pool. Would adding Polyquat 60 help if he is not as diligent as he should be? And if I do add it, is there a negative side to adding it?
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Depending on your current CYA level maybe a floating chlorine tablet might be a better option while you are away.
Maybe this will help with the light : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFUfiSKEh7A
Maybe this will help with the light : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFUfiSKEh7A
Another question: The pool looks "crystal clear" during the day, less than .5 CC and less than 1 FC loss overnight. I can see the lines on the main drain cover. But at night when I turn on the lights, you can see the haze around the lights. Do I keep slamming until no more haze around the lights at night? Or is there always some of that haze around the lights at night?
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
It's normal at night with a light in the pool to see something in there but the amount of something or how thick the haze is the question. Since you are coming off a SLAM there might still be some stuff in there yet to be filtered out. If you pass the OCLT, it's clear in the day and your CC is under .5 you should be good. You could try a little DE to see if it will grab smaller stuff.
IMHO I wouldn't keep the FC up trying to clear up what you are describing as it's more likely a filtering issue. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/133-add-de-to-a-sand-filter
If you haven't yet done a "deep clean" that could be another good thing to do. http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/73192-Deep-Cleaning-a-Sand-Filter
IMHO I wouldn't keep the FC up trying to clear up what you are describing as it's more likely a filtering issue. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/133-add-de-to-a-sand-filter
If you haven't yet done a "deep clean" that could be another good thing to do. http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/73192-Deep-Cleaning-a-Sand-Filter
I passed the 3 tests and let the pool go back to its normal FC levels last night. It's kind of scary after nursing it back to health for 3 weeks. This morning it still looks great and passed the 3 tests. I'll be keeping a close eye on it. And the next time I have to go out of town, I'll be giving my husband very detailed instructions (orders) on pool care and will put pucks in floaters. Thanks everyone for your help.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
